I've got the DB Electrical 160amp Marine alternator. I've had it 7 years now. Never had a problem. It's one of the only things on my boat that has lasted.
Knocking on wood SO HARD right now.
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I've got the DB Electrical 160amp Marine alternator. I've had it 7 years now. Never had a problem. It's one of the only things on my boat that has lasted.
Knocking on wood SO HARD right now.
It does charge but it certainly doesn't put out 160amps. It came with a little graph that shows how it bench-tested. It's been a long time but I believe it doesn't come on until 1500RPMs. I don't really have a problem with that. It wouldn't generate anything meaningful at idle anyway.
I've got onboard chargers and a 3-battery bank so I'm never without good power.
Ok, replaced alternator and need some conformation on if i hooked it up right. First picture should be a pic of old alternator wiring. Orange was hot all time, yellow was hot when main switch on, and black was ground. 2nd pic should be my new alternator wiring diagram. I hooked black wire to ground lug at very very top left, then hooked yellow to the black wire (labeled switch +12), and then hooked orange to the big lug instead of to red wire. The big lug has a stamp "BAT" by it which i figured was for battery.
I just want to make sure this way looks good. I did test, and battey was at 12.2 and rose to 13.1 while running.Attachment 12199Attachment 12200
So below 1500 RPM your voltage is 12v or less, discharging? Or you need to rev the engine above 1500 RPM then it charges and at a 700 RPM idle there will b 13+ volts?
Typically a high output alternator will output significant amperage at idle, nowhere near full output but well above a stock sized alternator (40-70 amp). If it is in fact discharging at idle that won't work for me. If it needs to be revved to 1500 RPM to begin chargin then will charge at lower RPM then it may work, as mine needs to be revved closer to 2000-2500 before it will charge.