Polishes, compounds and waxes thread

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Originally Posted by DAFF

This is the disk I was referring too. 2000/3000/5000

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...oam-discs.html

Also, there is a difference between fibreglass polish and automotive stuff. The automotive will work but it will not perform as well in time and is harder to apply.

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Yeah, I know what you were referring to. I have the 3000 grit foam trizect already. But it was going by hand. I could see a difference. I'm going to pick up some for the pneumatic once I finish sanding. I just wondered if you'd tried it with speed on a gelcoat. The grits available (that I can find here) are all the high-end 3m Trizect finishing discs. While they do cut and do a great job. They don't last very long. It took me 8 just to do the bottom front half of the boat. And at $3 a pad, that's pricey.

Currently I'm doing the bottom hull. It was so bad I had to start with 600 grit, then 1000 grit, 1200, 2000 (by hand), and then 3000 grit foam on the pneumatic. Then compound, polish, and buff.

What I used before and what I'm using again this time is the following...

3M Super Duty Compound with the 3M wool pad
3M Perfect-It polish with 3M grey foam pad
3M Finesse-It finishing glaze with 3M grey foam pad

I've used a couple different waxes and not sure I'm happy with those. I've been reading a fair amount and it seems like there is a strong concensus supporting the use of the Starbrite Marine Polish with PTFE. I'm going to try that this time as the final "protective" coat.

I just wanted to bump this thread up so I could find it for a while. I have lightly polished the new boat twice and then waxed and then once back in the water she goes back to been all oxidized. So I need to upgrade what I am doing.

Haugy, great thread! I wetsanded my Mariah a couple of years ago to get rid of the oxidation, then used the Meguiars brand of products. They have an 800 number and I called and told them what I was doing. Recommended a three step of #49 oxidation remover, #45 polish, and then the high tech yellow wax. Worked very well for me, and then keep her out of the sun as much as possible...and that does seem dumb as we all want to go out on our boats on sunny days!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gogger

I just wanted to bump this thread up so I could find it for a while. I have lightly polished the new boat twice and then waxed and then once back in the water she goes back to been all oxidized. So I need to upgrade what I am doing.

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Man I can't get used to the new avatar for you now.

What are you using for polish? I'm about to try the 3M Finesse it tonight on the bottom of the hull and see how it does. The bottom hull is shiny, but not glossy. I'm hoping this will have enough cut to just be a little bit more than polish, but not a compound.

2000 Supra Launch. Has Spent the last 6 years with the PO with no cover and no waxing.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/e5yberuj.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/6aduhy2u.jpg

"Buff Magic" metal and fiberglass marine compound. You can find the pint size can, I think that's the size, on Amazon for around $22. This will do a whole 20' boat.

Apply component on a 4x4 or such area with a disposable paint brush. Layer it on until there is just a light haze of compound covering are.

Use the edge of your wool pad on your buffer to go side to side, from top to bottom, the up and down, from side to side. now flatten the whole wool pad on the surface and repeat (using the whole pad and not the edges)

This compound cuts and polishes all at the same time as you'll see in the pictures. These were taken without polish or wax applied.

I barely wet sanded much and this oxidation was horrid. However I did find that some spots towards the stern were easier to wet sand with 800 and then use the buff magic.

I have 3M's poly polish but I've yet to apply it.

I used a 6.5" wool pad. Actually I bought 4. Used 2 while the other 2 were in the wash.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/jy7aju2a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/a4ujy4y2.jpg

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Final result without wax or polish just yet. Didn't have time but I'll get to it in a few weeks. I was also very surprised at how oxidized the white was. IMO it was worse than the blue.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/9y2e2era.jpg

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The 3M Perfect it line is the best. But there are like 10 steps if you go through the whole process... A ton of CC guys have done it and damn, the results are stunning. You can use their boats for mirrors... But there are a few steps you can skip and still get amazing results. All it is is time and money... $$$

The thing about products is find one that works well for you and is easily acquired and stay consistent. I use a Cyclone Orbital and Maguires. The Cyclone uses two 4 inch orbiting gm foam pads that are color coded for aggressiveness. I learned at a detail shop years ago and my station bought a Cyclone years ago for our apparatus. Other than super aggressive cutting ( wet sanding level) I would go with it over a circular buffer. I like Maguires professional because I know the product and it's consistent. I do not like the bottles it comes in though. They get brittle after some shelve life.

Used the 3m gelcoat restorer. Not much bite. I will try the Finesse next don't need a whole lot of bite, sounds like that might be what I need.