Voltage differencel between Display on volt gauge vs. read per multimeter@ batteries.

Also, think there's any value in replacing the breaker that's above the ignition switch? Not sure if those wear out or not, but I can't imagine they'd be that expensive...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trayson

Also, think there's any value in replacing the breaker that's above the ignition switch? Not sure if those wear out or not, but I can't imagine they'd be that expensive...

---

Being a mechanical switch of sorts, it has contacts. Over time, these can pit/burn away, increasing corrosion and reducing voltage. Use the meter and test it with no helm loads and then again with loads turned on. There should not be any voltage drop across it.

If you'll touch one lead of your DVOM on one side of the breaker and then one on the other side, with an electrical load applied you will know right away if it has too much resistance across it. You should see zero volts or nearly so. If I saw .10 volt I would replace it for sure.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wylietunes

Being a mechanical switch of sorts, it has contacts. Over time, these can pit/burn away, increasing corrosion and reducing voltage. Use the meter and test it with no helm loads and then again with loads turned on. There should not be any voltage drop across it.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kma4444

If you'll touch one lead of your DVOM on one side of the breaker and then one on the other side, with an electrical load applied you will know right away if it has too much resistance across it. You should see zero volts or nearly so. If I saw .10 volt I would replace it for sure.

---

I might just run out and grab one and replace it as preventative. Since I'm not with my boat right now, any clue what amp breaker I'd need for my 92 sunsport?

Okay, so I ran a new 8 gauge power wire from the perko switch to the distribution stud of the fuse block. I also bought a Bus Bar and installed that below the fuse block. I likewise ran a new 8 gauge run from the battery to the bus bar. I put the perfect pass on it's own circuit and have it going through a relay so it's getting switched power. I gave it a ground to the bus bar. For the first time ever, I got over 12 volts on the PP voltage display with the engine off. From the battery to the PP voltage display, I have about 1/2 a volt loss. I think I can live with that. I'm not sure where PP was getting it's power, but it seems like it was getting it from somewhere that was WAY up by the top of the gauges. I'm thinking that it was just robbed off the power for one of the gauges.

I haven't replaced the ignition or the breaker, but I'm thinking I might do that eventually as preventative. We'll be taking the boat out tonight, so I'll be able to report back on how the PP functioned with the better voltage.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kma4444

Do a voltage drop test from your main feed wire and the ground wire. Connect a volt meter from the battery + to the hot wire under the dash and turn on some load, sounds like turning the key on will suffice. If you have a voltage reading on the meter it is telling you you have a large resistance to electrical flow in that circuit. Same thing with the ground side. What you will be reading is current that is flowing through the volt meter instead of through the circuit, electricity is lazy that way, always looking for the easy way out. If it weren't so useful, I'd swear it was a supporter of our current government. But back to the point, you want little to no voltage to show on the meter. If you do show a reading then try and isolate where it is by doing the same test at different points. It is really quick and easy and foolproof.

You are looking for less than .20 volts DC on your circuits, with lower loads that number should be lower still. anything over that have too great a drop. This test can be used to check battery terminals as well, one lead to the post, one to the clamp or wire coming off the battery. You should see nothing at all there for voltage, even under a high load, like cranking the engine. The higher the load, the better this test is. You must have current flowing for this test to be valid.

---

I am having the same issue. I just tested the voltage from the battery + to the power at the switch. When I turn the key (put some load) I get around 1 volt. If I hit the ballast fill switch I am getting close to 2. This appears to be the problem but I am not sure what to do next or isolate the issue.

Any suggestions?

Td in NC,

Thats a significant voltage drop. It could be a poor wire connection or corrosion in the wire. Trace the circuit back to its source. Dont overlook the helm ground circuit either. I would also evaluate the size of the helm cabling compared to the current load demand. Adding accessories like lights and ballast pumps, can easily tax the current capacity of those original helm feeds.

I struggle with electrical issues. Any advice or link on how to check each item which draws power?

I cleaned and checked as many of the power and grounds as I could yesterday, but no noticeable change.
Thanks
Tom

Looks like your boat is much newer than mine 89 but replaceing the breaker solved it for me.