86 supra , 1409 edlebrock carb issues

The resistor should go into the wire route that leads to the positive side of the coil. There is probably a splice where you removed it from the path, at the back of the engine, off the ignition solenoid, (by big red button circuit breaker) just a couple connectors and you'll be back in business. I think the Mallory YL distributors are fine with any configuration, but at this point you probably want to get rid of some variables. Any small block Ford coil is fine. I think I have a basic NAPA on mine, but am not near boat so sorry I can't tell you model number. Though, right on the coil it says "must use with ballast resistor". Good luck. I know in your video the subject of a hot coil got mentioned again.

I found out that the coil I have is a 1.5 ohm and 8140 needs 1.5 of resistance to bring down to 8.0 v during run , 12v start and then the ballast should bring it down and with 13.6 average return voltage I think should be the reason my coil is getting hot . I went up to autozone and ordered a ballast resistor and I'm going to wire it like Mallory instructs . If the coil still gets hot I'll change it with a napa one . Thanks for the info and I'll post back when I get it buttoned up


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http://youtu.be/mno2TBwgkTM


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http://youtu.be/7LyJtyJPSEM


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Anybody know the ohm reading of the standard coil that came on the 351 ? I've narrowed it down to the wrong coil I believe and I need some help on this


Or does any one have OEM numbers off there's ?

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Well I found my old coil in the tool box but no labels . I'm gonna put it back on and try that tomorrow


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The symptoms sound like low fuel flow to me. Ignition will backfire through the exhaust. Popping through the intake is an indication of a lean condition (or sticking valves...which is not likely).

I would check fuel filter and then the fuel pump. Is it mechanical or electric?

Mechanical . I have 6 psi at fuel line , I have two Inline filters one before pump and one after . They are both new as well as the line . Now I do see the fuel pressure go down when engine begins to stall witch it would because the pump is mechanical . I might try a electric fuel pump and see if I can get it to change


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6 psi is good. You should have the 6 psi as long as the engine is turning at all. In fact, it should remain close to that even after the engine stalls, as the check valves in the pump should not release the pressure, and the carb isn't using any fuel then...unless you are pumping the throttle...

Is there a chance it is vapour locking? One time, also in May here in Texas, I could not trace a poor run/stall condition. I finally used clear fuel hose and actually watched bubbles form and expand out of nowhere in the hose. I finally deduced that it was unseasonably hot and the fuel mix I had was blended for winter temps. A fuel change and I was good. The wild thing is that you still see good pressure with a vapour lck, but it's reading vapour pressure instead of fuel pressure.

There's 93 pump gas in there and some octane booster lol . I am going to look for a good 6-7 psi electric fuel pump and then see if anything changes , but first the old coil is going back on to see if that changed anything , problem is the fuel pressure regulates when the engine stalls or sputters , and the carb wants to see 6.6 psi no more no less . So I'm gonna do both and see what happens lol !


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