1989 Sunsport

Hey, I'm a newbie on this forum and want to say tons of great knowlegde here. I would.like to chime in as I am a proud new 89 mariah owner and am currently going through a full resto.my engine and trans are totally out of the boat. There is four bolts holding the drive shaft coupler to the trans coupler if.you remove those you can loosen the gland packing nut around the shaft and literally slide the shaft aft out of the way to make life a little easier. But rember alignment is critical after your rebuild is done

Ok, sounds simple enough! And welcome! Yes a lot of great info! I've learned more stuff then I wanted to know about my boat on here! Hopefully all for the better once I can clear out the garage and really get into the stringers! Have you pulled the cap yet? How difficult was it if so?

Attachment 17956
Attachment 17957Attachment 17958

Here's a couple pictures. I started pulling the transmission today and determined it will be a lot easier to pull the bolts from the mounts. Should I worry that if my stringers are bad that my tranny mounts won't go back in and get tight? Or if it's bad then it would be bad right now and won't make a difference? And on each mount I only have 2 bolts in the stingers going in through the top, but there are 2 other cutouts for bolts going in from the inside but there isn't any holes into the stringers and looks like nothing has been in there ever. So is each mount suppose to have 2 or 4 mounting screws? I'm going to be buying the rebuild kit and parts through skidim, but what all should I do while I have it out because I don't want to have to pull the tranny again anytime soon. And is skidim the best place? Or will some of these other cheaper kits off eBay be fine?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rcweltz

Haven't had some free time in a while. I'll get the pics of the engine bay when I get out there again. New question though. So I'm going to be rebuilding my transmission and have a few transmission questions. I've done some research already but would like to double check some things because I've found different answers.
Tranny is a Burg Warner 1:1 71c model 10-17-004

Do I need to buy anything else besides the gaskets kit and clutch plates from skidim?

I don't wanna be taking it out again anytime soon so anything else I should replace while I have it out?

And then as far as removing it, should I take it out with the bell housing or just the transmission?

Where do I disconnect it from the mounts? Take out the stringer bolts or is there another way because I don't want this to lead to an early stringer repair.

And last how do I move the shaft back to give me room to work?

Thanks, gonna be my first time working on a tranny but usually I'm pretty good with disassembling and reassembling things so hopefully all goes well! ����

---

Just a heads up I thought my tranny was slipping last year make sure you have checked you fluid level while it was running and hot. When I checked mine last year first idling out it was perfect after running for a while and getting really warm the level was way low. From what I have read about the the velvet drive 1:1 you should never really have to worry about wearing it out. It is used on bigger boast with bigger engines and even then they don't wear out the clutches. Just my two cents.

Yeah I was low on transmission fluid and I figure I should just do it all while I got it out. And it doesn't stay still in neutral so my understanding was the reverse plates were out but please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm just about to order everything from skidim

Is it possible to sand the gelcoat with a high grit or wet sand it to remove scuffs or paint transfer? On my trailer there is no guides to keep the boat centered and to stop it from going up on the fenders when I'm pulling it out of the water. I got new fenders but want to solve the problem before putting them on so any suggestions that won't make my trailer look rediculous?

to pull the tranny i would leave the mounts in place and just remove the horizonal bolts going from the mount to the transmission itself. that will give you less to do to align it when it goes back in. i got mine rebuilt 4 years ago and that was the easiest way to do it.

https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downl...n_61323794.pdf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rcweltz

Yeah I was low on transmission fluid and I figure I should just do it all while I got it out. And it doesn't stay still in neutral so my understanding was the reverse plates were out but please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm just about to order everything from skidim

---

The kit is 200$ on eBay , skidim is great for odball


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Attachment 18001Attachment 18002Attachment 18003Attachment 18004Attachment 18005

Finally dug into things, main shaft inside transmission was snapped right at the weak point where a hole goes through, has anyone seen this before? Everything else inside looked pretty good. Pretty sure I confirmed my rear main seal concern after looking at the back of the damper plate. Flywheel and gear both looked fine. Ordered some new parts. Transmission kit, damper plate, rear main seal, new main wires from battery, 4160 Holley carb. Still considering new starter.
Anyone know how to tell if it's normal or reverse rotation? Can't find a badge or number anywhere with a L or R in it. Ordered the reverse rotation rear main though.
Anyone know the torque for the flywheel bolts and damper plate bolts?
Also, I keep hearing about new impellers but can't find a write up or any info or how to on them. I've heard every year they should be changed so I want to find that out.
Thanks!