Rudder play ? How much is too much ?

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Originally Posted by cadunkle

Just ordered a clamp block, real cheap for NOS. Two more left... http://www.ebay.com/itm/201839466139

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ff7ccc3b9c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...35038ba2cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6a899263e1.jpg

What about this ? I'm gonna measure mine tomorrow . Cause this looks promising !



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Originally Posted by lively

What is that ? I have a tilt tube on mine . Prob gonna grab the rudder assy from skidim . I've been looking around . I got 1/4" walk on rudder shaft now

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That is the block that bolts to the hull (in our case to the metal plate backing for the strut) and clamps on the tube the rudder end of the steering cable runs through. The ball and socket get worn over time and have slop in the assembly, allowing free play in the steering wheel before the rudder turns. This part should be greased periodically, some have grease fittings others don't.

Also that rudder you posted is set up for a starboard tiller, our boats have the tiller arm on the port side. You could use that rudder but you would need to add a slot for the woodruff key on the opposite side as the existing slot. Technically you could move the bilge vent tube to the port side, route the steering cable appropriately and switch the cable in the helm for opposite direction steering but I would sooner take it to a machine shop and have them match the keyway on the opposite side. $300 is a good price for a rudder, port, and tiller arm... But I wouldn't switch to a smaller rudder on my Saltare. May or may not be an issue for a Sunsport.

Clamp block:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...b7da4dc647.jpg

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Originally Posted by cadunkle

Clamp block:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...b7da4dc647.jpg

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Yeah I have a tilt tube on mine , not a clamp block I'll take pics and measure my rudder when I get off work today .


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almost EVERY old inboard I've touched needed a clamp block. Most need a cable too.

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Originally Posted by korey

almost EVERY old inboard I've touched needed a clamp block. Most need a cable too.

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Right , and I have a tilt tube assy , with rotary teleflex


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Originally Posted by cadunkle

That is the block that bolts to the hull (in our case to the metal plate backing for the strut) and clamps on the tube the rudder end of the steering cable runs through. The ball and socket get worn over time and have slop in the assembly, allowing free play in the steering wheel before the rudder turns. This part should be greased periodically, some have grease fittings others don't.

Also that rudder you posted is set up for a starboard tiller, our boats have the tiller arm on the port side. You could use that rudder but you would need to add a slot for the woodruff key on the opposite side as the existing slot. Technically you could move the bilge vent tube to the port side, route the steering cable appropriately and switch the cable in the helm for opposite direction steering but I would sooner take it to a machine shop and have them match the keyway on the opposite side. $300 is a good price for a rudder, port, and tiller arm... But I wouldn't switch to a smaller rudder on my Saltare. May or may not be an issue for a Sunsport.

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Dunk , I confirmed that the measurements on my rudder are the same , 7-1/2 x 12-1/2 and it's a 1" shaft , what do you think if I machine a new key , would that have some stress factors on the shaft or maybe just cut the arm as well to have 2 keys one for each side ? Any thoughts


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Should be no stress or fatigue issues cutting a new keyway in the rudder on the opposite side, many come with a keyway on each side to allow for either installation.

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Originally Posted by cadunkle

Should be no stress or fatigue issues cutting a new keyway in the rudder on the opposite side, many come with a keyway on each side to allow for either installation.

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That's what I'll do then , I'm gonna order it Monday and I have a machine shop down the road too . I guess I gotta pull the gas tank again lol


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by cadunkle

Should be no stress or fatigue issues cutting a new keyway in the rudder on the opposite side, many come with a keyway on each side to allow for either installation.

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Problem I see with this rudder is the one I have goes through the bottom of the hull and the OD is like 1.630" and the one I'm going to buy looks like 2" OD , the flange is still 4x4 @ 3" on center but trying to figure out how to use a hole saw without a pilot to cut the hole . Maybe screw a piece of wood on the inside for pilot ?




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