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CDA - I checked multiple places and even the owners manual for winterization process is done without ever starting the engine. I know many people start the engine and then use a hose from the raw water intake into the jug of antifreeze to suck it up. This is a faster method but not required.
I used a 5' or so piece of hose stuck into the RWI and then a funnel on the other end. Hold it up high and pour. The antifreeze slowly enters the engine. After about 4.5 gal, it poured a lot out of the exhausts.
While my engine would not START, it would crank over. When it did, it gulped a lot of antifreeze down. I did this a few times to speed the process but it drained the battery quick.
This is obviously not the ideal winterization and I still am not that happy about it, but I did a lot of checking and it should be fine. Make sure you drain the block of water first, critical if you get any temps near zero deg f.
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30 degrees for 12 hours is not going to crack the block. The frost plugs would pop first. It sounds like you have a water jacket problem on your exhaust. When you turn off the motor some valves are going to be in the open mode, which would allow water to flow into the cylinders. That's why there was water in #1 and #6 and not the others. Pull your exhaust manifolds and do a pressure test. Also, check your risers
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It's odd that you would have the same problem on both sides of the motor. My guess is the motor was overheated at some point, and the cold weather, and some ice only opened the problem and drained the water into the cylinders. Let me know what you find out.
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Thanks MikeyD, I'll def get some antifreeze in it for the meantime (rest of the winter here in South Texas). I'll pull the drain plugs from the plug, get that water out, and feed the antifreeze. I'll also spray some fogging oil in the carb and cylinders.
OUI - I hope you're right, it would definitely be a lot of work and $$$ rebuilding the motor. As far as getting the exhaust manifolds pressure checked, how do I go about doing so? Is it as simple as removing the pair and taking them to a machine shop to pressure check (similar to heads)?? Could you be a little more detailed about the risers as well please?
FYI - If you guys ever need info on rebuilding an engine, I acquired (you know what that means) a DVD called "Boxwrench - Basic Engine Rebuilding". It's an amazing DVD that goes step by step on stripping and putting an engine back together. It even shows you what machine shops do when you take a block/heads to them...etc. I'd be more than willing to help you find it online.
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Frost plugs are round bowl shaped plugs that are on the side of the block. They are pressure fitted and if the block freezes the pressure of the expanding ice pops them out, and hopefully saves the block from cracking.
Pull your manifolds and plug on end, then poor water into the other end and see if you have a leak in the #1 and # 6 exhaust holes.
On second thought, I don't think the riser have a water jacket so you may not have to worry about them. When you pull your exhaust manifolds check and see if they have a water jacket.
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Freeze plugs on an engine are not there to prevent damage if the coolant freezes.
Their main function is to remove the casting sand when the block was made. Any time water freezes inside an engine it can cause major damage. This can happen at 30 degrees for 12 hours if its cold enough to freeze its cold enough to crack. It is possible the exhaust manifolds are the problem. The only thing you can do is tear it down and check everything. anything less you are rolling the dice?
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You need to check your oil for water, if its milky you have water in it and then
your prob dealing with a head gasket or a head problem, you would also have a loss of compression in those cylinders. do you run it in salt water? compression test is easy thing to do, checking oil is easy to do
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Hey Guys, here's an update on what I've come up with for the motor...
1) I drained about 1.5 quarts of oil/water mixture from the oil pan until I started to get clean oil pumping out.
(I'm not sure if this water is from this recent event, or from a previous event this past summer we had a bad storm come through the Gulf with heavy consistent rains. It rained so bad that the boat cover gave out and water literally filled the boat about 4" above the floor, my dumbass had the bilge plugs in hoping to go back out on the lake before it rained. I opened the engine cover to find the WHOLE engine compartment flooded. I drained all the water out, and checked the oil pan. The oil pan was full of water, and I LITERALLY sucked out about a gallon of water from the oil pan before getting to the oil. It ran fine once I changed the oil, I just don't know if I got all the water out.)
2) The spark plugs are still sparking, but I still couldn't get it to start with even spraying starter fluid straight into the cylinders)
3) I pulled the plugs from the exhaust manifolds and the solution that came out was a blueish/blackish water with solids that looked like black silt. Not sure what that is, fried gaskets or just old water???
4) I drained the engine block plugs, and pure clean water came out. Sounds like a good thing.
5) I did check a cylinder compression test with a gauge, but I was told to do it with all the spark plugs in and take one out at a time to check that individual cylinder. I think the proper way to do it is to take ALL the spark plugs out, so this reading is not accurate. I'll have to do it again tomorrow. This is the data so far...
#2 - 120 psi
#4 - 65 psi
#6 - 60 psi
#8 - 60 psi
#1 - 80 psi
#3 - 55 psi
#5 - 80 psi
#7 - 70 psi
(the results are VERY low and very inconsistent, so not sure if the test was accurate. However, the test was consistent, so not sure if that would validate anything)
The thing to remember is I'm not sure if this was a previous event of overheating the engine; my impeller gave out when I was out on the water and the engine overheated pretty badly. So not sure if this is from that or a recent "freeze". I'm praying it's just the heads or head gaskets.
This boat was mainly taken out on salt water this past season.
I looked at the engine from what I could see, and NO cracks were visible, not sure about the inside though.
HELP?? Not sure if its cracked head/gaskets, cracked exhaust manifolds, cracked engine block...etc?
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How many hours are on the engine?