Printable View
Rick I have not heard any complaints about the SP, have you?? The part is not carried through major marine dealers (ie westmarine). When I searched for 2nd battery info, I also only found the BlueSea. But once I stumbled onto a thread of Brett/Polarbills, it was an easy choice. I personally feel no need for a perko switch when my dash board has a master kill switch.
This is the part that bothers me as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by 87SunSportMikeyD
I purchased the blue sea but have not yet installed it.
The blue sea add-a-battery still requires that the switch be set to on/off each time the boat is used and I'd like to eliminate this feature.
I sent an email to the company asking if I could keep the switch "on" all the time, then run a relay to an empty accessory rocker switch on my dash, but was told no. I don't know if that's because it can't be done electronically or they are covering their butts in case of failure.
So, if I'm hearing you correctly, you are saying that the SP has all the benefits of the Blue Sea add-a-battery, but can be operated remotely from a dash relay?
Wouldn't the 1315 be preferable, since we are talking about two batteries?Quote:
Originally Posted by 87SunSportMikeyD
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Squeaky Wheel
If your system is setup without any external drainage or issues, it won't have any effect what-so-ever.
I turn mine off as an additional safe-guard. I don't think I have anything running in the boat when I get off the water, but this makes double-sure that I don't. It also protects all of my stereo equipment from any voltage spikes or otherwise badness from a rogue battery charger. The only two things I have hard-wired to the batteries (so they are not switched off by the master switch) are the auto-bilge and the head-unit constant power (to make sure all of the settings are saved.)
I wouldn't trust a relay as a master switch in my situation just because I have over 200amps going into the stereo amps, alone.
Great info.Quote:
Originally Posted by wotan2525
Same here on the battery drainage - just the autobilge for me (or however the boat comes stock).
Thanks !
The SurePower actually does a lot that the BlueSea does not. I dont want to type a big book, but basically it keeps your batteries seperated. If you blow your alt belt and first bad goes dead and the boat dies, then it would automatically bridge the batts for starting power. WHen your alt is charging, it will charge both batts, giving priority to the one that needs charging more.
With the SP, there is actually nothing for you to touch or adjust (no switches) it does everything automatically, all by its self.
My motor home has somthing smular to the Sure Power, only older. My motor home battery controller does not have the auto-engage switch feature that switches batteries when one falls below a threshhold, rather it has a big manual switch on the dash to will connect them togather. This way, if the chassis battery will not crank the enigne, the house battery can.
What I like about the Sure Power is that it does everything for you automatically. No additional switches to mess with. It sounds like it behaves just like my motor home controller, completely hands off.
you got my attention.Quote:
Originally Posted by 87SunSportMikeyD
I sent a PM to polarbill but haven't heard back - if you have his ear, can you please ask him to buzz me
Mine's still sitting on the shelf with all the other parts waiting for the reassembly phase - but if remember right from the manual, the 1315 also has a provision for an optional manual switch to connect the two batteries.
While it's supposed to connect the auxillary battery in case the primary batt voltage drops below a certain threshold (12v ?), you can connect a separate switch or tie the connection to the ignition key to manually connect the two during starting.
Here is his wakeworld profile, PM him there
http://www.wakeworld.com/polarbill/