That's exactly right. Just add your electric pump back close to the tank, or at least before the mechanical pump.
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That's exactly right. Just add your electric pump back close to the tank, or at least before the mechanical pump.
So, let's say that I needed to remove my gas tank in the future. If I had the electric pump mouted near the tank, could I just disconnect the output hose from the electric pump and connect a line to it flowing into a gas can and turn on the ignition and watch the electric pump drain the tank?
I'm sure at some point I'll have to remove that tank again (as that's the only access to my rudder packing).
Just curious.
Yes you can do that. I would run it very long that way. But you could do a tank let it sit and cool then do another and so on. I would be afraid of running it for a long period and burning it out. With that said I once had a mechanic who insisted I needed to drain a full tank of gas out of my baja. Mind you I just put the gas in two days before I needed service. He then tried to charge me for 5 hours labor at 135$ an hour to have his guy watch the pump. I really wanted to kill this guy. FYI this service was for a tuneup. Last time I used that mechanic and I made sure everyone on the lake new not to use him.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't you also need something to tell the pump to shut off when the engine is not running, but the key is still in 'ignition' position, like it would with any fuel injection system? I'm talking about if you were to install it permanently into your system.
I have to agree. I don't know this for a fact, but I've always assumed that the reason why they are wired this way is that they can run all day long as long as they are pumping fuel, but when the pressure builds and there's no fuel flow it will kill the pump. I've got a dead one out of my car that I'm planning to see if I can get running again to use as a fuel transfer pump.
Those are fuel injection (high pressure) pumps. These low pressure pumps can sit pressurized and be just fine. I have a super small electric pump in mine (no mechanical pump) and I've never had a problem.
The one that I have looks like this... not sure if it's the same exact model, but it might be.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...10700_w_ml.jpg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pf...7N_RoCfIbw_wcB
I think before I'd mess with your lines I'd verify if it's vapor lock or a vent issue. People on this board seem pretty quick to point the finger at vapor lock, when it seems like you have tons of evidence pointing towards a venting issue.
That pump would be OK to use as either a replacement or an addition to your mechanical fuel pump. It can be put right in line with the existing fuel line and can be wired into the ignition solenoid to only run when the key is on.
Coast guard regulations require that the pump only run when the engine is running. My carbureted 95 has a pressure switch plumbed into the oil gallery to kill the pump. Doesn't cost much and is cheap insurance.
if you use that electric pump, you may want to add a low pressure fuel regulator. Most electric pumps run a much higher psi than the 5-7psi our carbs/mechanical pumps run. I converted to an electric pump on my old muscle car and found out the hard way i needed a low pressure fuel regulator when the gas was pouring out of the top of may carb lol.
So, took the boat out today. Went through over 14 gallons of gas. No issues except for the boat did feel like it was surging a bit when I was letting my son drive at about 15mph. He had the throttle fixed in one spot. Beyond that, it ran fine. Wakeboarding, slalom pulls, cruising, slow tubing, floating, and finally surfing. No issues...
That said, I did come prepared with a length of new fuel hose and 2 gallons of ethanol free premium in a gas can just in case I'd need to hook that up to the fuel pump to verify whether it was upstream or downstream of the pump...
We'll probably go out again on Monday evening, so we'll see if anything materializes...
I was surfing with my gas vent under water and when we were done my boat started running like you described. I drained all the fuel and filled
With non ethanol, new plugs, button, and distributor cap still the same. Finally I was so mad I ordered a brand new carb cause the old one was gummed up and I didn't care
For vacuum secondaries, ran a little better but didn't fix it. Talk to my mechanic he said the on thing he could think of was an ignition problem. So I went and bought a $40 ignition coil plugged it in and it fired up like a nascar.
But just a question, now I am paranoid about surfing with a lot of people cause my boat sets lower in the water, does the gas breather let water back in or does it work like a check valve.
Bam! Supra, what's that!
My understanding is that the valve (at least on my boat) is an anti splash valve. It doesn't have a check valve in it.
Mine looks like this:Quote:
These vents help prevent water from entering the fuel tank, yet allow air to vent freely, during normal sea conditions and washdowns. This eliminates the need for an anti-siphon loop in the vent hose. Meets ABYC Standard. Installs easily and permanently. Made of flame-retardant black plastic with choice of black, white, or stainless steel vent head/cover.
http://www.iboats.com/mall/image/ven...ig/21382_0.jpg
I'm pretty sure its just a vent "valve" i don't think there is a check valve in it to prevent water from coming back in, but im not 100% sure
Went out again last night. only used about 6 gallons though. (seriously, only $25 in gas! that's what happens when I skip adding 1700 pounds worth of surf ballast and just let my buddy lineride on 1 little under the seat sack).
No issues last night either. Go figure.