Uhh, you're not giving us a lot of hope that this is happening soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by lively
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Uhh, you're not giving us a lot of hope that this is happening soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by lively
Lol happy wife happy life ! , i'm really working on finding a reparable machine shop that can do a quality work for my short blog or just do all the machine work and I will install the parts , and I just replaced all the facia on my house and I gotta paint it before the winter .Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
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This is my current engine , and the shaft log to dog house alignment is shown in two pictures , I measured looking down at shaft log and I'm 11" from left stringer to center and from right stringer I'm 10" . So 1" difference . My question is I need about a 1/4" of movement to be true from strut to shaft log , can I get that from strut and then align by feel or is there a easier way ?? Thanks gents http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...38b681cd6e.jpg
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I don't think there's any alignment-ability in the strut (unless it's bent). The strut should put the shaft roughly in the middle of the shaft log and then you align the engine to match. Note: You'll need to support the shaft vertically while doing the engine alignment so it stays in the middle on the shaft log.
Ok , so no resistance to keep the shaft center ? It should just rest in the center of shaft log ? Problem is my engine is out of side to side adjustment because of the 1" difference when I laid the stringers . "My fault" . So while I have it out I'm gonna do some glass work to the stringers to make the adjustment .
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It needs to be roughly in the center, but it doesn't have to be exact. It's more important to check the shaft in neutral alignment with the strut. If the shaft is in alignment with the strut, and not touching the side of the shaft log, and you can align the engine to the shaft, then you're golden.
Cool that's what I thought , I'm gonna do that , I'll be pulling it out soon . I'll start the feed thenQuote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
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There is room to move the strut itself (a bit). I did mine for the same reason. I pulled all the bolts and dropped the strut so I could clean the old sealant of out and then re-installed the strut with new sealant with it aligned as best I could to the centre of the shaft log. The holes are a little oversized so you can get I tiny bit of movement. Mine wasn't perfect when it was done, but it did move a bit.
When you aligned strut to shaft log did you align so the shaft is center or did you have to pick the shaft and put it in center ? Cause if I put mine in center of shaft log now I don t really feel side tension from strut but I wish there was a way to know exact center .Quote:
Originally Posted by chris young
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Push the shaft one way, then the other. The middle of the two is center...
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Mine was out enough that I just moved the strut as far as it would go in the correct direction and just lived with that.
video feed has started for the rebuild !! please subscribe and comment !! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTb7_93UQeY
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Ok so I got it tore down , and found 2 Pistons with broke rings , 3 mains wiped with grooves in bearings , and 1 Pistons skirt was cracked down the side !! the block is still at standard bore and looks to be in good shape ,
I'm getting ready to send it to the machine shop to be manafluxed and bored .30 over , I plan to grind crank , line hone mains , deck block .
Installing stock crank , eagle forged rods , hyper or forged positions +.30 , comp cam (grind tbd),
ARP hardware , melling oil pump , flotek heads TBD on cc size , double row timing change and gears , performer intake , maybe a different Dizzy .
I need some help on the right rods , the stock length is 5.965 ? Do I just buy stock rods ?
On cam shaft anybody have any input on a com cam kit ? I want to use hydro rollers .
Help ! Lol
Thanks , lively
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OK guys I got the block back I opted to get a 94 roller instead of the older flat tappet, so I talked to comp cams and told them that I wanted to use flow tech heads with either the 194 or 202 valve spec ,
They suggested the K35–514–8 extreme energy cam kit . It's listed for 302 but I have to talk to him again about 351 . Anybody ever use the set up or what do you think?
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I can't answer as what components you should be using, but it's looking good. Very clean and I'm sure you're going to be thrilled with the results when it's done. It obviously had some issues that needed attention.
Yes , I talked to comp cams again and they said for the heads I want to use that cam kit will work really well , rpm range is 1600- 5600 and I'll be ordering parts soon as I do some more research to make sure it fits the buck
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Calling all engine gurus !
So here are my numbers tell me what you think far as my calculations go for compression ratio .
Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3.5310
Deck: .020
Piston dish: 14.61cc or 20.5cc including deck
Heads "flotek" : 58cc
Head gasket dia: 4.100
Head gasket compressed: .040
Static ratio : 9.66:1
Compression ratio : 9.47:1
I am ready to finish this build and finally got the funds to do so . But I wanna see if anyone has anymore thoughts or suggestions to help aide the nail biting decisions lol !
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ok guys !! pics and videos coming soon i just placed 2 orders in for $4k in parts !!
*flo-tek 58cc heads assy
*comp cams XEK35-514-8 cam kit
* 1.6 rockers
* edlebrock performer intake
* ARP bolts / studs
*oil pan
*Harmonic balancer
*ACME 541 3 blade
*PSS shaft seal
*shaft coupling
*48" A-19 SS shaft "fit and faced with coupler"
* and a bunch of engine dress up
I think i am gonna have to use header spacers cause the valve covers on 94 roller 351w seem tall due to roller cam and valve train im assuming , but im stoked !! and can wait to share the finishing of the build .. bunch of money on and old boat , but hey my kids will enjoy it in a few years so what the heck !! cheers !
Wow! You're all in! That's going to be a heck of a motor. Look forward to seeing the video of it running.
Congrats!
Thanks titantn I spent a little extra cause it's gonna make it all work well together and with reassembly it's great to have fresh parts .Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
I got compression numbers of 9.6:1 so I'm ready to get the old babe out of the shed and show her some love .
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That's almost too pretty to use! Gonna have it all together by Sunday night? ;)
Ha ha ! I wish ! Heads are super light , and they look real good for budget heads . Waiting on some Ceramic paint and the cam kit . Should have it going soon .Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
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Ok guys I ran into a couple problems with the heads , valve springs for the flotek heads installed height was all over the place ! I'll post a pic with my specs , problem is comp came wants 1.800 installed height on their valve springs , and I don't have no where close to that with out .100 worth of shims ! Lol no one got time for that !
So I found that 950-16 springs will work with the kit verified with comp and they have a 1.900 installed height ! So waiting on the vendor to swap out the springs , I painted all the accessories and anything that I want looking decent . Here are some pics of what I got . https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...25058d7240.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4ed0879641.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fba0694128.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...68f23166e1.jpg
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Looking good so far. Is that the right size oil pan? It may be completely different on your boat, but with my 454 and Saltare, I only have about 1/4 inch clearance under the oil pan.
I'm glad you pointed that out . Rear sump may not work , lol wow . The original is middle sump , so I'll look at my pictures and see .Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Lol thanks man
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Titan ! Dude thanks for the heads up on that , I found some pics in my old album and you are correct ! Lol what fun that would be to stick the engine in later to find out the pan was to tall . I owe you a beer sir .
I have been at that old pan all morning with DA and wire wheel . Just got first coat laid and then I'll be on to the 2nd and final .
Should have known better [emoji35][emoji23]oh well
. I won't be pushed down when I got the right tools !
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No problem - glad to help. That's why we have these forums, so people can share and learn. Because of your pics and thread, someone later will learn a lot about engine rebuilding and will also be reminded to consider the oil pan depth. Looking forward to seeing the final build.
I'd be sure you're also taking the time to source and install a remote oil drain.
You bet , I had one in this pan , so I'll just add a new hose and stopQuote:
Originally Posted by wotan2525
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Waiting on my valve guide arbor and seat cutter to arrive so I can finally put the heads to rest , I have to machine down the valve guide bosses to fit for comps dual springs . My local machine shop didn't have the .560 cutter I was needing . So I just looked up comp and they had the right cutter and all arbor ! Imagine that ! Lol they should just sell it with the kit . Would make it a whole lot easier .
But , I have got all the shaft , PSS , coupler , new hoses , acme 541 to finish it out . I bet this power plant should really change things up for this old boat . But I'm really just ready to drink a beer and feel some sand with the kids !
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Looking really good.... won't be long now!!
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Got the new cutlass bearings in and re aligned the strut to shaft log . I used a 1" hose and split it to center the shaft into the shaft log while tightening it up . I used 3 washers as shims in the back to tilt it up . But later found that the shaft wanted a little movement to rest and not tighten up if the engine were to settle down in the mounts .
The hose trick really worked great and the new shaft lined up perfect !
Heads are still not ready , had to buy a height micrometer to set valve spring height , I was using calipers and it was making my second guess my work .
I also bought DUI dizzy from performance distributors and some live wires , but comp cams dizzy gear they sent us wrong so waiting on mail now . But man I'm so ready to hear this thing !
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