Here's a link to the thread where I was taught to separate the drive shaft form the coupler, took me a bit, but the advice , as always, was top notch.
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=7751
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Here's a link to the thread where I was taught to separate the drive shaft form the coupler, took me a bit, but the advice , as always, was top notch.
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=7751
Thanks Leaf, this will help much!
Been absent for awhile ( work man....), but the cap and engine are coming out mid January. I did notice however that my best msmt of the floor was around 3/8". I ordered samples of Coosa and Nida board 3/4". I was wondering what thickness for those who replaced their floor used. Am concerned that using 3/4" could raise the deck height so that the lip of the cap would have a gap against the hull. (Also, Anyone have experience with using a front end loader to do the lifting? Any pointers on how to teather the cap? Was thinking of roping the four cleats tied to a central point at the center. Please let me know if I'm heading for disaster!
Other progress..finally got the windshield off.
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0048-2.jpg
Was wondering about this
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...0_0047-1-1.jpg
You could go with the thicker board and...
A) Reduce the stringer height to compensate.
B) Cut the bottom of the top cap to compensate.
I would say if you tied to all four corners and to a center point you would be good as far as the top being lifted well. You might run into some issues with it wanting to tip and swing. Maybe tie something like a 2 x 4 across the two front and then another across the two rear cleats, then lift with those to make it want to be a little more stable.
Okie:
That's what I was thinking also. I guess the big thing is keeping it level to to the original. I guess that's the challenge. The pics to come will tell the tale. Stay tuned!
Just hired the lifter to hoist the engine and cap Saturday Jan 15. Oh shit...here we go
I'd try to lift as vertical as possible from at least the 4 cleats. Others with Sunsports can better tell how stiff the cap is & if spreaders are indeed necessary. Make sure you've got enough lift on the loader for the inner skirt of the cap to clear the hull seam.
Like Okie said, just cut the stringer height down to compensate for the thicker floor. Be sure to measure better than I did though so you don't have to trim the bottom of the cap (like I did!).
Oh sh!#? No Sh!# It's not that bad - really...
Sounds like I have some grinding to do...Oh Brother....
Fyi- When I lifted my cap off with the forklift.. The weakest point was the nose! I had a six point harness made up with rachet straps and rope and most the of tension was on the middle and rear.. The front was basically to keep it balanced! This worked perfect!
Also when I reinstalled the Cap I had 4 friends + me and we just lifted the cap onto the boat! So its definitly possible if it has to be that way!
Pretty sure you're pointing at the keyway that holds the drive shaft and trans coupler together, it didn't happen when you ran aground.Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilMcg
I am doing about the same project as you. I'll post my pics as I move along. I'll be pulling my gas tank out this week. I think I'll need to brace my swim deck from the inside somehow. Any ideas on that? It feels spongey when I put weight on it. My rear seat has rot as well. I'm sand blasting trailer this week too.
It's safe to say that your project is significantly more sophisticated than mine, but here's what I've found so far:
When I climbed onto the platform last year, the upper bolts pulled through, which was the first evidence of a problem. When I pulled the tank, I saw that there were small blocks (about 3x3in) flush to the inner transom where each bracket bolt went through. I decided to replace those with larger brass blocks cushioned with a rubber mat and multiple washers in varying size (like a cone aft to front) to disperse the force against the transom. I'm way behind in the project, but will show the pics once it's done. Looking great so far...you're gonna have a brand new boat when you're done!
Thank you guys soooo much for all your posts. It gave me the info and, more importantly, the courage to tackle this. I bought this boat off craigs list for $1500, knowing the motor lost oil pressure. Pulled the motor and broke it down. Piston sleeves need polishing, new piston rings, new cams and cam shaft. While motor is out I thought "why not wet sand and put new paint on...
I opened a can of worms there. Started pulling seats out and found some rot. Being a carpenter I know that where there is rot on the surface there is usually rot in the substructure. I had my fingers crossed because the deck was new, but when I did a core check on the joist it showed rot also. Crap! I'm gutting her. She's had her top off before because there is a thousand rivots and two pounds of silicon holding it down...good times.
I had the same fear of doing this, as I am nowhere near the skill as a carpenter. And work has me way behind in my intended time schedule. But this boat is my late father's and I'm determined to bring it back to life and keep it in the family.
I too found water as I began taking the foam out and worse yet, discovered rot in the engine mounts (a tip from Mikey) ...I knew I was in trouble. The inboard stringers and engine mounts are completely rotted, as well as most of the floor, so I decided to go the distance. After a lot of thought and cost analysis, I decided to gut the stringers, leave the resin forms as molds and fill with seacast, and then use 3/4 Coosa board #20 for the floor. It's expensive, but it doesn't require glass and resin, so the difference in total cost is neglible, plus I get a significant reduction in weight. I'm at $2,900 for the upholstery and about $1,200 for the floor and Seacast. Add another $1,000 for the damaged steering, and $600 for the exterior finish. Most keep the costs under hat, but I think it's beneficial for others to understand how much it takes to do a project like this. The best advise I can give is to go low and slow and you'll realise that it is doable, but it is a HUGE investment in time. (But, like me I bet you'll love it!) I think by the time I'm done, I'll have $8,500 in it. But that's better than $38k for a new one and even $15K for a used one. You're on the right track. Just remember that it takes more guts than skill. You CAN do this and it will turn out great.
There are many skilled people far beyond us here who are on your side to help.
Sybrmike
OkieBoarder
WakeMikey
Mapleleaf
rludtke
salty87
cadunkle
wotan2525
dshaff24
All these guys have helped in large and subtle ways. Don't be timid to ask them. They're more than willing to share their knowledge.
Neil
Snapfish has completely changed and I can no longer post photos...Anyone have any suggestions?
NeilMcg
There are a lot of post or threads of good quality pros that could do your stringers at a fair price. There is still a ton of work for you to do, but that job done would put you in the drivers seat faster. The ice on the lakes will be melting soon!
Thanks, But I was referring to how to get my photos on there. I think I may have figured it out. Very impressive work you've done so far!
Ok. Got the photo thing resolved.
Although I'm way behind, I finally got some work done:
Floor being removed:
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0103-2.jpg
Met with the mechanic today. Although I had no plans to mess with it, looks like I'm going to have over 300hp!!
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0102-1.jpg
Rlhahn: This what I meant by reinforcing the bolts for the swim platform against the transom
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0099-1.jpg
Any suggestions on a quick way to remove the foam?
Thanks.
A little late on the photos, but Photo Bucket is a good one.
Foam removal is tough...straight shovel, chisel, air chisel, dynamite ;-)
Ahhh. Mine does have plates, but they still move quite a bit. I think I'm going to try and manufacture one long plate that connects all three supports.
As far as the foam goes, I used a sawsall (w/ a long blade), and then an orbital sander with 60 grit. It's messy though. My son helped by holding the shop vac hose while I worked.
I used a "sharp shooter" shovel to cut the foam from the stringer edges, then into ~6" square blocks, then pry the foam out in sections - kinda like carving brownies outta a pan. A 4" putty knife made a good scraper. Messy, tedious work for sure, but looks like you're making good progress.
rlhahn - the loading on the platform brackets is vertical, so you're better off making the backing plates taller instead of wider. I really like how Okie's go all the way up and capture the tow rings as well. Here's a shot from his thread that I saved cause I'd like to do the same...
Neil - Thanks for the nice words; like you said, it makes me happy to give back and help spread the Supra vibe. I wish I could work with boats more but it's a great hobby too. ;)
Rlhahn - For the price, you will come out ahead in the long run. It sounds like you are mechanically inclined, which helps lol. We will be watching! While I wouldn't discourage you from posting here, I would encourage you to start a thread of your own about your restoration so you can get our undivided attention and get all your questions answered at length. What year and model did you get there? Oh and describe your on the water activities to us. Family or buddies? Ski or board/surf or mix?
SybMike - That is a GREAT shot! Important area to know what is going on back there.
To add some description to the picture sybr posted...
It appears as though there was a build up of plywood and glass to make it a couple layers thick, then the tinted gelcoat or bilgecoat was coated on. Finally a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum plate was adhered to the surface and that's what they used to bolt through. The swim deck and the rear transom strap hooks all use that area for support on the left and right...definitely very solid! You can see they also did that in the middle up top and toward the bottom for the tow ring and for the middle swim platform support, respectively.
OkieQuote:
Originally Posted by Okie Boarder
I think you might have a HD 3/8 plate back there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sybrmike
You're right, I'll do it like that. Thanks for the pic.
I've been wanting to start my own thread, but can't figure out how. I may be mechanically inclined, but I'm for sure not computer savvy...ha! Any help?Quote:
Originally Posted by 87SunSportMikeyD
Pretty simple.
After clicking on Supra modifications, you'll see a button at the top left that reads "New Thread". It's a blank slate for you to call it whatever you'd like and you can start posting your work.
Good luck!
Just did a coulple of hours measuring the floor (from the cockpit back) and I came up with only 55 sq feet of flooring, which seems a bit low. How many 4x8 sheets of flooring did any of you use for you projects?
Just wonderin
Thanks
NeilMcgQuote:
Originally Posted by NeilMcg
I'm also having my engine rebuilt. Just wondering what type of modifications are needed to go from 240 to over 300 HP. EFI?
We're using a Summit package that includes a new intake,cam, lifters, rods rockers and flathead pistons which will bring compression to approx 11:1. Special ignition changes are also in the works. He's betting on 310 once on the dyno. The ft/lbs are another thing which needs to be addressed.
I looked at EFI, but it just wasn't worth it. Too much electronics, fuel return line...Had to put the brakes on at some point with this thing. As a 'footer, 44 is my max speed I need anyway. It'll just be nice to get it to 50+ for show!
NeilMcg
That's really cool that your having your engine dyno tested. You'll have to let us know what the numbers come in at. I'm looking into a DUI distributor, ask your motor man what he thinks and let me know. Thanks
I'll ask him about it. I've never heard of it, so it'll be interesting to learn and I'll pass it along.
I talked with him and he said it was a superior product. But the cost is too high. I'm hoping I'll get what I want with the package.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman
Finally... got the engine out
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0130-1.jpg
I have no idea how to remove the rudder assembly out to get the vertical post straightend out. Can anyone help?
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0129-1.jpg
This happened when the engine was taken out. Since running aground, I was wondering if this is a problem. Any thoughts?
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/a...100_0132-1.jpg
Thanks for any help
NeilMcgQuote:
Originally Posted by NeilMcg
You can spray it down with pent. oil. Put the nut back on the threaded
stud a few threads, then tap it loose. (hard rubber or brass hammer). You should be able to move the wedge stud back and forth. Move it to the loose spot, it won't come out till the rudder shaft drops down out of lever arm. Try loosening the packing nut. Try taping the rudder shaft down and off of arm. Don't hit it with anything hard rubber hammer wood doll. Puller if needed. I think you might have to put a couple bolts back in flange if you back off the packing nut and hopefully the nut might help break the arm free.
Good Luck
Also PSS makes a nice dripless seal from Skidim.
Thanks,
I'll let you know what happens
I'm guessing that the prop-shaft moving that much once released from the tranny means that your strut is bent. Just another item to add to the list.
ditto, strut straightening time!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by wotan2525
Computer died...finally I got my new one.
You guys were right. I ended up buying a new strut from SkiDim and am having the shaft checked. I may go to a 13x14 prop for a little better top end (thoughts?) Upholstery is 75% done. Floor will be in this weekend and once the carpet is laid, I'll re-join the hull/deck. Engine will be in within 3 weeks and then off to the graphics shop.
https://forum.supraboats.com/picture...pictureid=1867
https://forum.supraboats.com/picture...pictureid=1873
https://forum.supraboats.com/picture...pictureid=1872
https://forum.supraboats.com/picture...pictureid=1869
Whoa! The upholstery looks AWESOME! Did you do it yourself?!