Thanks for this explanation. I've heard it described before and had a decent understanding, but this was very clear and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.Quote:
Originally Posted by sybrmike
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Thanks for this explanation. I've heard it described before and had a decent understanding, but this was very clear and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.Quote:
Originally Posted by sybrmike
Yes, thank you for the clear explanation. One more question. I've cut my stringers to fit very tight to the hull. I would say they are making about 85 to 90% contact. Is this a good thing, or a bad thing? Now that I've read your paragraph on bedding material I'm not sure if I should do the fiberglass over the stringers yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Great job getting that much contact - the more the better. The bedding material itself is not inherently strong, so the tighter the stringer fit, the less bedding material needed, and the stronger the structure.
Lay a bead of bedding material down down the entire length of the center of where the stringer will go. The thickness will depend on just how tight the stringer/hull joint is. You want just enough bedding material so that it squishes out both sides of the stringer and fills all the gaps, but not too much so that you can't get the stringer pushed down all the way. Again, re-work the bedding material that squishes out to form the base pass of your fillets.
Awsome. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by sybrmike
Another way to bed the stringers is to set them in place so the tops are where you want and there is a gap at the bottom. Shim them up to get that gap. Then you can brace them in place so they are level and plumb. Then fill the gap with the bedding mix...using a ziplock bag with the corner cut out works well. This gives a lot more time to work with it then the method already mentioned. Either one would work well and be effective, it would just be a matter of personal preference and how much time pressure you want to be under while getting it set in place.
Okie makes a good point. 1000 ways to skin a cat, just find the way the works best for you.
It is common practice to maintain a gap between the backside of the decorative composite surface (such as a mold or layup tool), and the supporting wood or other structure, to prevent the backing structure from "printing" through to the finished surface. The backing strucure is laminated in place on both sides, but a gap is maintained by tacking it in place with dobs of body filler, so that the wood (or other) material does not touch the surface laminants. Print through will not likely be a problem on the thick boat hull, and if it occurred, nobody could see it.Quote:
Originally Posted by vvfdfirefighter
Instead of body filler and gaps, I would shape your stringers and frames to match the contour of the hull, and bed them in place with a bead of body filler spread down the lenght of the structure. Set the structure in place, and form the squeeze out on either side into a fillet (radiuses) with a popsicle stick or tounge depressor (larger radius) which helps the fabric transition across the sharp inside corner. Dabs of hot glue can be used to temporarily hold the structure in place and to each other until the body filler sets up.Then the parts and fillets are ready to be sanded and laminated in place.
So I've been a little preoccupied and haven't been making the progress that I thought I would. Got her cleaned out and ready for floor. Lots of grinding, sanding and DUST. The factory "glass job" had a few air bubbles, and when I'd set the grinder to them, they would be full of water...?? How the hell does that happen?
Foam....keeps the water where you don't want it....Quote:
Originally Posted by rlhahn
Great work so far, ur helper looks very pleased...
How do you set the floor up at this point to lay the stringers (i have seen string used)?? And..the stringers are different heighths at diff points??
First make sure that your trailer is level, and your boat is level. I started by marking the same measurements from the stern on both sides, and then continue with one foot increments as far as I could get to the bow. I then ran some 1" screws in that flange that is left on the sides after you take out your floor. Pull your line (I used nylon fishing line) across at every 1' you put the screws. I then snapped a chalk line along the bottom close to where the old ones were and used a level to mark the floor and the string at all the one foot locations. Start pulling measurements and transfering them to your lumber. To get the angles of the bevel cut you can measure over the width of your new stringer (mine was 1-1/2") on the floor and the string above. Then take that differance and draw to lines that extend out 10", then use a speed square to get the deg. I probably didn't explain that to well, but it worked for me. I just used a circle saw and kept adjusting the bevel as I cut. Here are some pics that may or may not help...good luck.
Is that one of those Stanley fans in the background, I love mine, bring it to almost every jobsite!!
Stringers look good, you're making quick work of this thing.....
Yes Stanley. They do work great, and I like the two outlets on the side.
In addition to measurements at intervals, like mentioned, you can take the approach of doing one stringer at a time so you always have the others still in there to refer to for height. Trying to match the new stringer height to those and make it level would work.
You're making progress quickly...looking good!
Thats true, just don't forget to compensate for the fiberglass and resin on top of the old stringers or the floor will be about 3/8 higher than the old one.
Love the interior shot, I set my bench up for winter seating in the basement while making some upholstery "adjustments". My 3 yr old loves it! Looks like an old Steve Caballero and maybe a Gonzales board leaning up there too!
BTW stringer's look farck'in amazing, got plans for the engine mount bump out (or step)?Never mind just saw it in pic 3..
Kinda makes me wanna book off work and gut my boat!
dogtown and tow machine. my 8 yr old has been buggn me to get all that "crap" off the ramp so he can skate. I said he needs to be on the trampoline practicing for a summer full of awsome wakeskating and wakeboarding in our awsome boat! Thanks for the compliment on the stringers. I want to do this thing right so I don't have any worries for the next few seasons.Quote:
Originally Posted by mapleleaf
Don't forget the cpes.Quote:
Originally Posted by rlhahn
Definitely second that. Coat that wood before you actually install it in the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman
What size wood are you using for the motor mounts and are they bolted to the center stringer?? Im right behind you man. Nice work and thanks for the pics. Jet
right on. Yea I'm sanding them with 60grit then a healthy coat of sealer, then sanding again with 80grit, then resin and fiberglass, then install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Okie Boarder
No progress today due to bad weather and I got my truck stuck in the yard...good times.
mud n snow, great combo....
Any new updates??
Did some fiberglassing Monday eve. I've been working long hours building a house, so I havn't been on it like I should. I did get the motor back and started putting that back together...I'm starting to stress a little about getting this done. Oh I got a quote on having it wrapped with a graphic that I drew and I've been pricing sound systems. How bout you?Quote:
Originally Posted by jet
Maybe a dumb question but has anyone ever heard of people using PL400 for the initial stringer bond and fillet material? That stuff is great and is considered water proof and an all around everyday item in the construction industry.
BTW, great thread! I'm glad I stumbled across it as I am about to start laying down my stringers as well. I am using marine grade plywood instead and WILL NOT be putting foam back in. Thanks for the advice on accounting for the thickness of glass and resin over the top of each stringer! I some how over looked that in my initial calculations.
Keep up the great work!
What wood size and thickness are you using for the eng mounts?? Im wating on those pictures. Hurry!! lol
[QUOTE=Longitudinaldreamer;51527]Maybe a dumb question but has anyone ever heard of people using PL400 for the initial stringer bond and fillet material?
PL Premium 100% Polyurethane is also a good bedding material. Lowes also carries SikaBond Universal, claims permanent bond even under water.
Oldman-
Thanks for the info....I know that stuff works great on passed out roomies as well.
The mounts were a little tricky. I just measured off the old ones to get it right. I made them 4 1/2" thick or three 1 1/2" boards glued and carriage bolted together and then fiberglass. I did make the bow end stringer about 8" longer so my plywood will break better and for more support by the seats.Quote:
Originally Posted by jet
rlhahn on post #55 your pictures shows your main stringer on each side of the motor shows its straight from front to rear?? From the rear of the boat mine makes a left, then straight pass the motor, then right to the main stringer, then straight again to the front of the boat?? Are you changing the design? I want to follow your way?? Can you explain? Thanks. Im right behind you in my project. And how is your peanut butter part coming? I owe you a beer now. lol
I didn't change the design except for making the outside stringer longer. I know that the stringer designs do vary from year to year, but as long as you keep the motor mount section the same, I'd say you can do whatever. As far as mine is concerned the inside stringers (closest to the motor) are continious. I did have to notch them to the correct level for the motor, and then it's just a matter of cutting the other two to match, and then cut your last one back up to the deck height, and then glue and bolt them all together.Quote:
Originally Posted by jet
jet,
Take some pictures of yours and post them in your thread. I'd bet they are the same as most other Supras which means the main stringer portion is straight, then it is added to where it seems to jog over towards the outer edges of the boat. The main part of the stringer isn't taking a jog out, most likely. Likely it isn't as tall vertically, right there and that is where you add other structure to build it out to the edges, at the lower height.
You are correct Okie. My old ones were made of cheap plywood slapped together. I don't even think it was marine grade. Even the step down for the motor was plywood, I'm not supprised that the mounts in these things come loose. I don't like how the cross members cut through the stringers. At almost every notch I had water damage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Okie Boarder
OK, thats making since now. I will take a picture tonight. I think syber said his mounts were hollow? Yep, If you can picture 3-2x4's stacked, but then pulled the bottom one out?? There was a void under there and it had water in it but it was just sitting on the hull. What were those guys smokin back then? lol
jet,
Here's a pretty good picture that let's you see how it can be done. Essentially you will have stringer, 2x4, 2x4, ply that are all about 4" tall. That creates the square and flat area the motor mounts sit on. Then you will have ply that is back at floor height to wrap it. You can see the build up pretty well on the left side of this picture.
I wouldn't worry as much about how it 'was' done and worry about how it 'should' be done. ;-)
Okie - I would love to be able to show that photo to Supra back in the day. After they picked their jaws off the floor they'd explain how this level of excellence can't be achieved in a production environment. If they had done it like this originally, well maintained boats would never have to be rebuilt. Beautiful work.
Remember, they only need to manufacture something to outlast the warranty. Also, if they made it 'right' you wouldn't need to by something from them 5 or 10 years down the road, in addition to the fact they would have to charge more. I personally don't fault the decisions they made. :)
I don't necessarily fault their decisions, as they have to make the production process affordable, but I think even when they decided to cut some corners, their execution was not even up to the level of the decision they made to cut the corner. I'm not picking on Supra particularly, I just think it was an issue of the industry in the 80s where they weren't as concerned with QC and consistency as manufacturers are today.
OK, now Im understanding. Okie where is your original thread?? Canb you post the link for me or tell me what to search for? I know you took so many picks I could use for reference. Thanks for your help man.