Then you need to address your wiring problem and get it fixed if it shorts out your truck lights. I do understand the adapter problem. I've had 4 stolen from me.
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Well I don't disconnect the lights because the reverse lights activate my brake lockout solenoid on my trailer. If that's not activated the trailer tires lock up when backing up. This is true for anyone with surge brakes.
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Haugy, those adapters weren't stolen...it was merely a reallocation of resources.
I haven't strapped my boat down yet. Wanted to, but the same issue as the OP has, and it didn't look right to me. Thinking of putting 1 long strap over the entire stern.
I trailer my Comp 45 minutes each way to the lake, and today it will be on a 200 mile journey.
Sweaver
Hoyt Vector Turbo
Victory VAP 350
Spot Hogg Hogg It
QAD Ultra
Same issue here with the straps. I like the idea of moving the platform back an inch or so...have to look into that. As for the lights, I hate having a nice looking rig only to have a light or 2 not working. A few years ago I got fed up with my old stock lights on my Sweetwater trailer and installed all LED's. I also made a new wire harness, and wrapped it in plastic split-loom tubing to protect it from chafing as there is no way to secure it inside the trailer frame. Also I used the expensive heat-shrink crimp connectors to keep water out of the connections. I have not had a problem with lights to this day. I do not unplug when launching, or loading but I could as my surge brakes only lock when backing uphill.
Always strap the stern, I want the trailer and boat to be in as intimate of contact as possible. I'm not holding the boat to the trailer but the trailer to the boat like previously mentioned. Never unplug lights, mine are LED as well. Agree that with incandescent bulbs the thermal shock can get them.
The roads from Memphis to Mississippi are pretty rough so if you choose not to strap your boat down, get ready to watch your boat and trailer bounce all over the place. The best benefit that I see from strapping is that if you do hit a bump at 70mph, both your boat and trailer bounce together instead of seperately. This will keep your boat in place and not end up mis-aligned to one side.
I also have the LED lights so I never unplug as my brakes are also tied into the same point.
I think a lot of this will depend on the age of your specific boat and trailer type.
When I restored my boat I removed the eyelets above the swim platform to clean up the look. So now to tie the transom down I use the swim platform brackets, this keeps everything down low and nice and tight.
Thanks Gogger, I was unsure where to mount these for my Saltare. To the rear crossmember would either touch the platform bracket or be too far inside and not clear between the hull and platform. This left inside or outside the trailer frame, wasn't sure how well it would work but went for it after seeing your pictures. Seems to be good. No more ratchet straps around the corner of the hull to the rear guide vertical.
Boat Buckle G2, needed to get longer bolts. Got 2x 7/16"x3" fine thread bolts at local hardware store and 2x 7/16" washers and used the large washers and nylocks that came with the buckles for the inside. I drilled my holes 2.5" from rear of frame and 1.25" from bottom.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/P1050707.jpg