1985 Supra Comp TS6M

What you describe is similar to how I installed my floor.

It is tough to wrap the CSM if you don't bevel the edges at all. But it doesn't need to be much, and you don't want to bevel it too significantly as it reduces the contact your floor has with the stringer. Some people have just fiberglassed up to the top edge and then come back with a strip on the top of the stringer. I'd suggest testing a piece of your stringer material before getting it in the boat and establish a process for getting it wrapped in glass that suits you.

For sure, there will be a lot of test fitting. I think I may create some compartments so that there is added structure and the stringers are tied together. I am still going to test the stringers to see what areas are bad and what has solid structure that I can work with.

I'm going to work on the boat tomorrow so I will post some updates then.

I'd recommend completely sealing the stringers, you don't want water touching the old or new wood and starting the rot cycle all over again - so I second Titan, bevel the top edges of the stringers so the glass will lay over. Lots of way to skin a cat (or stringer), but as an example: I used poly resin and chopped strand for a bedding compound (but have heard of PL used successfully), beveled the top edges, used roven woven and cloth to completely wrap the stringers to the floor. Then once floor panels were cut and glassed both sides, I laid down a strip of saturated CSM on top of the stringers, and placed the panels down. Then quickly predrilled and filled screw holes with resin before screwing the panel in place. Once all the floor panels were down I glassed the seams and recessed screw heads. Mine was a cap off, so can't speak to the floor hull joint. Good luck!

I guess this could be called progress....

I will post photos tomorrow but looks like this is going to get ugly. I did some testing on the stringers and also the engine cradle and looks like it all has to go....the only solid wood is stuff in the bow area.

What did I get myself into.....

We know the feeling, but hey, you're this far and while it's a little more work now, it'll be nice knowing that it's all done when you get it completed. Just take it a step at a time and it'll surprise you how fast it can go.

replacing larger sections will probably be easier than a bunch of patches. it will definitely be a higher quality job.

Thanks guys. I will definitely need some help along the way! I guess my biggest concern is when I do the engine cradle, I want to make sure I get it spot on to the original height so that the motor is the same. If I am off, I guess I can shim it if required.

I assume the engine cradle should be made of some stout lumber (2x4's, 2x6's) but for the stringers, has anybody used anything other than 3/4" ply? I was thinking of running 1x4's and shaving them to the shape of the hull instead. At least with the boat being a fairly flat hull the stringers are straight runs!

Photo evidence of the rot

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0c46ce7a.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps8f212124.jpg

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Originally Posted by Supra_Comp

Thanks guys. I will definitely need some help along the way! I guess my biggest concern is when I do the engine cradle, I want to make sure I get it spot on to the original height so that the motor is the same. If I am off, I guess I can shim it if required.

I assume the engine cradle should be made of some stout lumber (2x4's, 2x6's) but for the stringers, has anybody used anything other than 3/4" ply? I was thinking of running 1x4's and shaving them to the shape of the hull instead. At least with the boat being a fairly flat hull the stringers are straight runs!

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although you want to end up fairly close in the up/down range the engine mounts are fairly adjustable. the more important location to focus on is front/back. the mounts can't make up for being too far forward or too far back. but, pretty close is good enough. don't sweat getting everything exactly perfect. that's one of the nice things about rebuilding...with few straight lines or 90 degree corners you don't have to be perfectly accurate. it's a daunting project but it ain't rocket science.

as to the stringers, there's a line of thought that plywood is superior. the grain of the wood in the layers of plywood are alternated as the sheet is assembled. dimensional lumber obviously can't do that. once the stringers and bulkheads are assembled, positioned in the hull and glassed in with the floor on top...does it make a big difference? probably not.

PS...you gonna try to pull the cap? i can't imagine doing stringers with the dash, etc in the way. the mess made from grinding will be a nightmare to clean if you don't cover things very well.

I was thinking about pulling the cap but I don't think it is feasible for me. The stringers extending from the engine cradle become solid in the bow area (under neath passenger seat) so I am thinking that instead of cutting them out all of the way I will be building the new stringers up to the old and then joining them by a tabled splice joint, a ton of resin, and a ton of 1708 mat for structure. Basically the same build that Jet completed...https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...or-Resto/page5

http://autonopedia.org/crafts_and_te...int-splice.gif

I will be taping everything off so that no dust/debris gets into any dash equipment.

What size wood should be used for where the engine mounts? I was thinking something more substantial would be essential here.

rather than sandwich many layers of plywood, that's an area where i used lumber....4x4 pressure treated but very dry.