The stereo won't draw enough current to kill the battery unless it's stored like that for a long time. If that will be the case, trip the circuit breaker or pull the fuse. My head unit stays powered constantly and I haven't had problems.
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The stereo won't draw enough current to kill the battery unless it's stored like that for a long time. If that will be the case, trip the circuit breaker or pull the fuse. My head unit stays powered constantly and I haven't had problems.
Your right I forgot about the delay. So it will not combine untill 13.2 and will stay combined until aux battery pulls the starting battery to 12.8. (taken off of the link pasted earlier)
Thanks DOC.
Either way for $50-$60, its a heck of a simple fix for adding an aux battery, w/o getting too complicated.
jony,
Those "stingers" you have in your boat are on-board chargers, right? Do you also have some sort of switch and isolation set up or do you have those batteries offline from your motor's charging system and only charge them with the onboard's once done for the day?
It is supposed to shut off all battery drain. Even the memory in your radio can drain a battery dead so when you shut off the switch it cuts everything off.
I really like it, because in case my alt belt breaks, and charging stops, then my main battery will die after a couple hours. There should be plenty of juice in the backup battery to start the boat.
Mikey...did you go with the 1314 or 1315? I am adding a stereo to my boat and wasn't going to upgrade to a dual battery but for the price and simplicity of this product I think I am going to plus I have a few deep cycle marine batteries laying around so it looks like a pretty inexpensive way to make sure i dont kill the starting battery when we are listening to tunes.
Stinger is the brand name. The 3 black boxes are charger/maintainers that are built for the 3 batteries. The batteries are dry-cell AGM's. The 2 big ones are SP1500D's that power only the amps. The smaller battery is the SP800. It powers the boat, and all accessories just like the OEM batteries did, except there's just one. I still have the original battery switch, so the alternator can send current to either the 800 alone, or both 1500's. Remember, the alternator is not a charger. I normally keep the switch on battery 1 (SP800).
Chaq went with the 1314 per brettyates/polarbill's recommendation.
thanks Mikey...I am going that route as well.
It is just a small square of circuitry. You bolt it to the compartment's wall. Good luck! Don't forget the new alt too! dbalternator.com