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haugy are you using the 3M Super Duty compound? If so, it does tend to want to dry out depending on how hot it is and what speeds and pressures your running. Use acetone to clean between applications and clean your buffing pad regularly. That helped my a lot. It seems it likes to dry and also start loading up the pad. Are you using wool or foam?
Yeah it's 3M. I wetsanded it so smooth with the 2000 grit, I'm going to switch to a different brand of rubbing compound that stays wet longer and is a lighter grit. See how that does.
With my POS buffer I'm stuck with cloth pads. Wool went everywhere and made the biggest mess yesterday. And foam isn't available for my buffer (POS craftsman).
I'm going to try the Sparkplug trick tonight. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I'm just exhausted, work, then 6 hours in the shop, and a newborn, ooooof.
I am doing something WAY cool with it tomorrow. :D Hopefully I can get the bugger started.
On a similar note: Is the best way to bleed these effing trailer brakes with a bleeder hose stuck in some brake fluid? I'm having a bitch of a time trying to bleed my new coupler for the trailer.
Yeah, I'd try something less aggressive. That super duty compound is actually about the same as 2000 grit, from what I learned when I did mine. You could jump up to the Finesse-It and do a small section to see how it looks. With wetsanding to 2000 grit you might be able to skip the compound step.
Use a one man vacuum bleeder. Requires compressed air but I assume you have this. Just crack the bleeder, pull the trigger, and it sucks fluid out, close when done. Works for all but the most stubborn brake systems.Quote:
Originally Posted by haugy
Thanks Cadunkle, I'll look into that, I do have a compressor.
Today was rough, real rough. I'll give more details later, but right now I'm so exhausted I can't think straight.
Keep at it Haugy< trying to get mine water ready with a 3 yr old and a 5 month old, and a daily grind and yadda yadda, It's cuz we love it.......Quote:
Originally Posted by haugy
Craptastic. I am getting power all the way to the cap. But.....still no spark.
I've got the points at the correct gap. And still no spark. Tried a voltmeter, even put a screwdriver into the spark plug wire and tried grounding it, nothing.
CRAPPPPP
Ok, hang in there...
Are you getting 12 volts to your coil? Do you get continuity from the positive to the negative contacts of the coil?
I'm getting 12 volts all the way to the distributor cap even. And I've got continuity between the contacts of the coil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ptownkid
The one red flag (or seems to me) is that there is continuity on the points at ALL times. When the points are in the open position if I put my continuity light on it each point contact, it lights up. Shouldn't it NOT light up if the points are open? Anything I touched in the distributor is showing continuity on everything else inside of it.
It's something small, I know it.
You should not have an continuity across the points when open...you won't get any spark as long as that is the case. The points have to break the connection to ground for the magnetic field in the coil to collapse and discharge.
Picture? You said the points are new so it's most likely something very small and silly.