Thanks ! Here is the result on the tower. Just need the "Supra" text on the face and it's over.
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Printable View
Thanks ! Here is the result on the tower. Just need the "Supra" text on the face and it's over.
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Look great
nice work
I just need to get over this not wanting to put holes in my boat to install a tower.
Thanks Century.
I was like you with my first boat. Then you drill, and you feel better, no more scare. Anyway it's fiberglass, if you fail your drilling you can recap holes.
The tower is a real good investment : It gives a good looking to your boat, good altitude to your jumps, and save tons of place if you put racks for boards.
Today I did some more polishing. These are my driver seat's feet :
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Some updates of the weekend. I glue the letters made in Komacel 3mm, with PVC glue. It seems to be a good combo. Here are pics :
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I also remove the fuel tank to access the direction connector. First problem, the tank is leaking !!! I need to fix it, don't know how yet.
I'm now sure that my direction problem is the cable. But, second problem, there is no any indication on it. No label, no model, no number.
1- Can I restore it ? Remove the cable from the sheath, clean grease etc ?
2- Does anyone know what model it is, what is reference, where to buy it ?
Here are some pics :
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Speaker cans look great.
Most likely the inside of the sheath has some rust or somthing like that makeing it stiff.
You can pull it apart or find a way to put some penatrating oil in the sheath and spend a lot of time working it back and forth.
If you decide to replace it give these people a try http://www.skidim.com/departments.asp?dept=1120 they helped me on some rudder packing.
I had no idea what size packing to order so I just orded both the called me the next day to make sure I got what I needed.
Thank you, I will check it.
My local dealer is selling Teleflex/Ultraflex M66 cables. Is it compatible ?
The boat is looking good Sdc77.
How did the interior come out?
And what did you use to polish those seat bases? I need to do mine before I sell them.
Hi haugy,
Thanks for compliments.
The big yellow stain on the dog house has not disapeared. It seems to be a burned thing. So the interior looks good except the dog house.
I ordered a new steering cable, waiting for it to put back the fuel tank, driver seat, and to mount the subwoofer enclosure + amps.
To polish the driver seat bases, I bought a set of polishing discs. This one to be exact : http://www.alpdiffusion.com/produit....&idproduit=476 and a driller. This is for miror effect. But as it was dirty, I first use those abrasive things to clean the aluminium : http://www.alpdiffusion.com/produit....&idproduit=546
Hope it helps ;)
Hi everyone, last pictures indoor. Next one will be on water (next week :) )
Hifi is done, tower idem. Just need a new cover and i'ts ready for this season.
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Man that interior is looking great. The whole boat is looking great.
Thanks guys, I appreciate.
Yes wakeboarding start to be an important water sport in France. Many brand new boats sold are wake boats.
At the club where I'm ridding, there are 30 boats. 20 of them are ski/wake boats. Most of ski boats have wake towers.
Curiously, Supra are absolutly unknow boats here. Many old CC, Malibu, MC, very few TS6M, that's it.
I have one question before starting the engine. I empty water from the engine and exhaust by removing screws down the block and exhaust. But I didn't fill it with antifreeze, as the boat is sleeping in a garage.
Now I need to start it. But, I think I need first to fill the block with water, as the thermostat is still in place (so the garden water will not entry the engine ?). Is there a block filling screw somewhere or do I need to remove the thermostat ???
Is this a closed cooling system, or a fresh water system? Assuming that it's fresh cooling as most are, you won't do anything specific to "fill the block." You need to get water into the engine via the water inlet hose. You can do that with a valve right above where the water enters the boat from the lake thru-hull, or as most common, you need to use a "fake-a-lake" attachment to a water hose as seen in the image at this link: http://www.bargainboatparts.com/p-10...ke-a-lake.aspx
It's a fresh water system. I was thinking that the engine is in closed loop when cold, means only the water inside the block is circulating inside, the fresh water only cools the exhausts. When hot, the thermostat opens, and let fresh water entering the block for cooling, and hot water goes out.
That's why I want to fil the block first, as it's actually empty of anything.
I have a garden hose connector system between filter and engine.
You'll be fine. No need to fill the block.
Thank you Titan, I try it next week and will probably do a video of the engine running.
Cheers
The boat looks great - all your efforts have really paid off. That interior looks factory fresh. You are sure to inspire the addition of more Supra's to your area once they see that beauty on the water.
Like Titan said, you'll be fine without filling the block. With no water in the block, the thermostat should heat up and open in only a few minutes to fill the engine once it's running. Just watch your temperature guage - I think the stock thermostat is a 145 deg F, so the temperature will probably rise to 150-160 deg F & then drop down once the thermostat opens.
Stephane,
Hey its matt, you had found me on YouTube last year. Boat looks awesome and i will take some credit for persuading you to buy it! Just found you on here so thought to say hi. How close to wakeboarding season are you?
Hi Matt, glad to see you here as well. The boat is actually at a place for a new cover. I take it back next monday. Then, I need to change engine and transmission oil, filters, polish hull, and put it in water. Maybe half of next week. Then it's begining of wakeboarding this beast.
I will take photos and videos of our tricks.
Stay tuned ;)
You were right guys, today I start the engine. No problem of temperature, when the thermostat opens, water enters engine. It runs just perfect at idle, but impossible to rise RPM !!! I tried with Choke and disconnected choke, nothing to do.
But I'm afraid to open the carburetor. The risk is to never start again ... I try to find litterature on it.
Also, idle is arround 600rpm, the alternator does not charge the battery. But I remember on the friend's X35, no charge at idle, it needed to be arround 1000rpm to start charging. So, I will wait that the engine runs perfectly before deciding to change the alternator.
Idle should be around 850-900. Go ahead and get a carb rebuild kit. It's easier than it looks and you'll eliminate a lot of possibilities by rebuilding it now.
Yes I start to look if I can get a rebuild kit directly in France (because of delay and cost of shipping). But I'm more afraid about retune it after changing parts. As I will clean and remove every srew, I think a retune will be necessary. That procedure if for me the big problem.
I keep you in touch. As it's raining and it will all the week, I can't start it again till next week. I would like to make a movie and share it before doing mistakes.
Holly carbs are probably the easyest ones on the planet to rebuild.
If it idleing ok but will not go past that you excelerator pump is probly bad.
Its under the front fuel bowl straight down from where the fuel line goes in.
Hey guys,
On the carb (on the choke plate's body) I can read this reference : "LIST-80262".
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I find this : http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/703-28/10002/-1
Is it what I need ?
Looks like the right one to me.
Ok thanks. I find it at a local dealer, I get it tomorrow or friday :)
I rebuilt the carb. It's not so complicated and there are not that much tuning to do on it. But it was still running bad. So I did something elementary (I was so stupid to don't start frome here), I remove spark plugs to check. They were full of oil and dirty. I clean each. Now it runs near perfect, maybe a little accelerator pump tune, but I will do it on water.
It's alive !
http://www.vimeo.com/40376114
Told you hollys are pretty basic.
Glad you got it going
Just spent the last 20 min or so reading through the tread. Great job on the tower, speakers and the look of the finial product.
Keep in mind the biggest killer of these boats is extended time sitting in the water. Can't remember any pics of the rear of the boat. Does it still have the Trapps or flappers on the back. I hope they have been sealed well and do not leak!! For this is the main point of water entery into the foam filled cavities.
Has anyone done a LP conversion for marine applications in France??? As for the trailer the European look seems under enginered to North Americian standards but will work fine.
Nice. It's good to see it on the water. Strange to see everyone wearing coats though!
Great to see your boat come alive, and thats one of the nicest looking Saltares I've seen on this forum. Congrats!!
Thanks everyone !
DAFF, what is a LP conversion ?
The boat had the factory flap, but I removed it and replce by a litle plate, not longer then the boat, with tons of silicon. I did it because it generated a flush and killed a little bit the wake. There is an automatic bilge pump in the boat, and battries are brand new. The boat will unfortunatly stay in water from now till October. I will seriously check if water comes inside the hull.
fantastic looking!
are there many wakeboard style boats where you are? i bet yours turns alot of heads.
Congratulations on getting that beautiful Saltare back on the water. You found a fantastic boat to start off with & somehow managed to make it even better. Looks great!
LP= Liquid Propane.....
I would drill a small insection holes in the bulkheads to inspect the condition of the foam. Under the front playpen would be ideal. Dry foam = very happy stringers.