Just make sure you make enough to do one pour. I tried a test light and I didn't fill it all the way so I went back and refilled it and it wasnt as clear. I hot glued the lights to the cup then siliconed the hole that the wire went through.
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Just make sure you make enough to do one pour. I tried a test light and I didn't fill it all the way so I went back and refilled it and it wasnt as clear. I hot glued the lights to the cup then siliconed the hole that the wire went through.
Thank you Cusefan78, the first post of the thread is updated with a link to this resin to Michaels.com
To get the exact quantity of resin, I firstly pour water in the plastic holder, then transfer that water in a translucid plastic glass. Then I draw a line to the level of the water. I finally used another glass (to don't mix water and resin) and draw the same level line, to get the exact quantity of resin (a mix of catalyst + resin actually). Easy and cheap ;)
Yeah figured that out after my test light was made. Good tip though
Any news guys ?
Yeah I took my white stern light out and added a blue one. The colors really pop now. Ill take a pic this weekend and post it.
Cooool ! Do you put a Led stern light ? You try the link I gave you in your dedicated thread ?
Yeah it's a blue led I got from the local parts store.
Attachment 13119 did a little tweaking with my lights. Much brighter now. Ill try to get a picture with an actual camera next weekend
Any update on a build with the Cree LED's? I'm thinking of doing this project with these (http://dx.com/p/mr16-5w-6500k-500-lu...-dc-12v-101352), but I'm a bit concerned with the possibility of heat build-up and burning out the LEDs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
So, I used the info on this thread to make my lights. I didn't have to break the housings of the lights, I was able to pry them up with a small screwdriver. I added a spacer underneath and hot glued them down. I chose to drill my holes more on the side corner of the housing. I then sealed the holes with some gasket maker RTV silicone I had laying around. You can see that one of these lights is partially filled with resin. Well, that's because I got ahead of myself and forgot to seal the wire hole before putting resin in. That was messy!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...428_113924.jpg
The encasing clear expoxy worked great and most the bubbles went away. I popped many too before it dried.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...428_201620.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...428_201606.jpg
This is my hull with the gas tank removed. I had to get in there to replace my rudder packing anyway, so it was the logical time to install the transom lights:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...428_184721.jpg
So, I had chose to drill my holes above the lights because I wanted the lights as LOW on the hull as possible and didn't want to risk not being able to access the wires. So the holes for the wires are all above the stringer level. As you can see from this pic, the wires go through the hull just above the stringers and had I tried to mount the lights where I did, I wouldn't have been able to access their wiring from the back...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7...507_072136.jpg
I was actually really suprised that the hull was barely thicker than 1/4 inch. It was probably 5/16th's of an inch at most. That meant that I was going to have to patch holes for not only the wires, but also for the screws...
Sadly, it didn't turn out as nice as I'd like with the wires going through the hull and the 3m 5200. I've got some ideas for how I'll clean up that, so in the meantime you only get to see the mounted lights, not my "unfinished" section where the wires go through the hull.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...507_072201.jpg
I was thinking that 4 lights would probably be "good enough". So I did 6 because anything worth doing is worth over-doing!!!
Last night I ran the wiring to power and ground. I made sure to test to polarity of each one. I had an unused factory switch on my dash that was labeled "aux" so I used it for the lights. So, now my factory court light switch is for my interior LED's. My factory Aux light switch controls my tower mounted spot lights. And the factory Aux switch is the transom LED's. I'm pretty happy with how that worked out.
This shot is taken from an angle obviously. I think they're going to look pretty cool underwater.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...521_221136.jpg
If I had to do this over again, I would drill my holes for the wire in the center of the plastic housings. I then would make a way to keep the housings level as I poured the epoxy in them. (maybe a piece of cardboard with holes in it? Or a board with holes drilled it it?) I would then choose my locations for the lights and drill from the inside of the boat to the outside. that way I could be sure I could get them mounted low without worrying about the stringers keeping me from the back of the wires. I would then most certainly mount the lights over the hole so neither the hole nor wire could be seen. I made a judgement call by thinking I could have the holes higher and the lights lower and while functional, it's not as asthetically pleasing. And man, that 3m 5200 is messy crap to work with.
But in the end, I have some bright, waterproof lights that will look awesome while underway for less than I'd pay to purchase some.
Man, it looks awesome ! Bravo, very nice work, can't wait to see it underwater by night. Glad to see my system working on other member's boats :)
You make me shy, I need more Leds on my boat too now, 6 leds seems shiny and powerful !
Keep posting man ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by trayson
Could you provide a detailed list of where you ordered all your stuff from. I read through everything but it's a lil confusing
Read the first post, first page, everything is there
Thanks. I got some underwater shots over the weekend. I was quite happy. Mine were definitely brighter than my buddy's who had a pair of blue purchased lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i...800/image.jpeg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...0/image-9.jpeg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...0/image-4.jpeg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...0/image-3.jpeg
And google images put a few of the pics together to make this animated pic:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...e-4-MOTION.gif
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...e-4-MOTION.gif
Impressive ! Nice job man, it looks very powerful in water :o
Well, I did go with SIX of the lights!!! And each light is 5.5 watts of SMD 5050's. That's something. :-DQuote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
I was just pretty happy that the Marine police didn't have any problem with any of my blue lights.
First of all you guys are awesome for detailing such a nice DIY mod. :grin:
This thread caught my attention and I've already ordered my stuff. I noticed that the higher the wattage, the higher the lumens, so I ordered 4 of these 15 watt Blue LED MR11s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9BOJG0
These were the highest output in MR style I could find.
I want to ask everyone a question who has done this.
Are you having any issues with the Resin yellowing from UV rays?
Any issues with the wire you chose? (Some appeared to use standard speaker wire)
Anything you would do differently next time?
Thanks everyone!
Interesting choice of bulb. if it's got 12 LED's and it's rated at 15watts, that means that each LED is just a smidge over a watt. 12 of the 1 watt led's should be bright!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Big517
in contrast, my bulbs with 30 of the SMD5050's are 5.5 watts.
I think that anything that's 16 gauge or higher should be more than enough. I just used what I had laying around. yes, speaker wire.
If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't have been stupid and mounted 4 of my lights behind where a Fresh air exhaust would someday be installed. I'd also scrap my idea of having the wires go through the hull above the stringers and the lights mounted much lower and just do what others have done and have the lights covering the gob of ugly 3M sealant. I'd probably use 4200 instead of 5200 also. Live and learn. I might actually be moving mine since I have my gas tank pulled again... We'll see how ambitious I get after my "surf system" project is buttoned down.
Hi and thanks big517 for your interrest.
I will put many reserves on the link you give. These kind of led bulb does not provide brightness. First it's MR11, smaller than MR16 bulbs. Then they are fitted with standard LED, and that's a problem. It's not powerfull at all. I think it will produce equivalent of 15W incandescent light, it will probably be not more than 1 or 2w real consumption.
You really should go for at least 5050SMD or CREE high power model LED on a MR16 bulb.
No issue with wires, we talk about really low wattage, so no problem with any kind.
@sdc77 you are under the impression that the bulb is a 15w equivalent, i really hope it's not. I will have my hands on them today and test immediately.
I also considered the 10w single chip epistar and Cree chips however I couldn't find a US retailer so delivery would have been a month. Then I stumbled onto these mr11s. I will be very upset if I find they are advertised wrong.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
I went ahead and ordered 4 of these w/ Saturday delivery because I really want to get it done over the weekend:
Blue 6w MR16 500Lumen
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOEQDVE/
Also
Check this OUT!
2000 Lumen 100 Watt Blue LED Chip!
http://www.amazon.com/Led-World-Extr...dp/B00J3KJXCO/
Salut Sdc77 !! Cette année j'ai finalement eu un peu de temps pour installer mes lumières !!
Hey guys , this year i finally had time to install my 2 RGB led spot light ! It's pretty cool and it glow way more than my best expectation, especially for the price !(+/-50$)
Unfortunately I didn't have my iphone or a camera when test them.. Next weekend i will take some shot for you guys !! I didn't try them at night while cruising but i will and i hope it will glow enough the wave to be able to ride in the dark ! The only thing is it's a bit tricky with the remote to change colors or to put strobe/flash mode. I have to put the first end of the remote (IR) in the water to change color but it work and in my lake the light blue color is the best and way better than the white/green and other.
This is what i bought :
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMFgxMD...S0Kvg/$_35.JPG
http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/IP65-10W...a0aa174&_uhb=1
Install on the boat :
http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/...psv0mhgknl.jpg
Salut Olivier !
Pas mal du tout ton système, puis de les avoir accroché sur les équerres de la planche de bain c'est pas con ;) Hâte de voir ce que ça donne de nuit sous l'eau, 10W c'est pas rien !
Nice system, cant' wait to see it running by night underwater, 10w is something
Cheers
Did a little bit of night surfing last night. It was a blast. This video does a great job of showcasing my transom LED's. They look so awesome while surfing. Thanks again for the DIY input!!!
You can also see my surf system in action.
I even wore my Ronix LED vest!
http://youtu.be/PpVsYygFdrc
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...0/GOPR0138.JPG
And another quick video...
http://youtu.be/JVTFzB2AmY0
Cool vids man ! Your boat really rocks with the decals, hifi, bleu leds everywhere ...
So how did those big lights work. I'm curious.
Does anyone know where you can get these caster cups now, the link in this thread only sells them in bulk of 500 or more now.
Since we can't get the "Black Caps" here in the States unless you order in bulk I found this substitute over the weekend... I will post pics soon but here is the linkQuote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23491-34146-...&facetInfo=Cap
Good idea. I would probably go with a non-flexible one, just a regular pvc or abs cap. Just make sure you don't get the one with the rounded top. Good thinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjtpilot
Anything under 3" had the rounded end or else I would of gone with a 2" PVC end cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by trayson
Hi guys,
You can go with rounded end cap, but you need to place the led in the round direction. Don't forget to add some oïl or grease on the cup and use it only as a molding piece. Then remove the solid resine piece. I did this test when I built my definitive model with castor holder.
Actually you can use any kind of molding cap or tube. The Cap can be kept for esthetic, but is not necessary, the perfect sealing of the led is the real subject.
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led09.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led10.JPG
Then for a perfect effect you can polish the resin
Becareful with too small caps, you need space between Leds and outside to fit screws. Not sure 2'' is enough ...
I kinda like the idea of no housing required.
Did you do it in a single pour? How do you space the LED's from the front of the resin? you want the LED's to have a few MM of Resin covering them so you wouldn't want them touching the mold when you poured the resin in...
You're absolutly right trayson.
Here is how I managed it :
You can clearly see it on pics above : I used some bended metal sheet (welding stuff) to hang the led while I was pouring resin in the cup. There are 2 holes on the PCB, i simply use them to attach my bended stuff.
Here is a scheme :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led11.JPG
Green color is the cup, black is the LED PCB, blue is a plastic sheet, red is the hanging bended stuff
Okay, I was thinking of some way of spacing it from underneath, but suspending it from the top would work just as well. You could really use any material to suspend it I would imagine. Good ideas.
I will be doing transom lights on my Moomba XLV over the winter. I still have enough materials to make four of the lights with the caster cups. I am going to supplement that with one of the CREE LED drain plug lights. I liked the output of the six lights I had on the Supra, but I only had caster cups for 4. I suppose using the non-cup method, I could make as many as I liked. (for less money too).
That looks great without the housing!!!
Yes you can use any material you want. Just a thought, you can also imagine using screws to suspending it. This way you can use those screws to connect it to the hull, and then no more holes to drill in resin finished led.
And sorry I didn't answer but yes, all my pouring are 1 pass pouring.
Yeah, once you told how you're suspending them, it was pretty logical that it'd be one pass pouring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
The screws might work. I guess it all depends on the diameter of the screws relative to the holes in the board...
Guys,
You can imagine every kind of system with 5050 SMD Led. This was my first attempt before I go for the castor holders and round Led.
I took adhesive strip led, glued it on a piece of pvc, then weld everything together and fit it in a tube end cup. Idea was to cut the wings and srew it to the hull from the cup. But the resin can goes out from the cup. And I didn't liked the visible wires, plus, strangely the resin didn't dry normaly, it looks just horrible. I probably can save it with another pouring.
I show you this thing just to let you imagine every king of arrangement with 5050 SMD leds as they are cheap and with resin they are perfectly sealed and will last a long time underwater.
Here are pics :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led12.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led13.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led14.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led15.JPG