1988 Supra Mariah: Floor and Stringer Restoration and more...

I am using these beams as for my outer stringers and wings. I still have to make my wedges to the shape of the deck. I'll glass these in first. The main longitudinal stringers and any wedges that will be receiving screws from securing the deck will have a layer of trevira glassed in to do be able to do so.

Here is my dry fit layout. To get a good bond to the hull, I am using a 36 grit sander to scuff the contact areas. I am also laying down a 2 oz csm to embed these preforms. All the stringers will be covered with a final layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps64b63ed1.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps91e8c6ec.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1c155c4d.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psed18f132.jpg

Does anyone know where I can find a couple of the mufflers shown in this picture

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Originally Posted by flipz96

I am using these beams as for my outer stringers and wings. I still have to make my wedges to the shape of the deck. I'll glass these in first. The main longitudinal stringers and any wedges that will be receiving screws from securing the deck will have a layer of trevira glassed in to do be able to do so.

Here is my dry fit layout. To get a good bond to the hull, I am using a 36 grit sander to scuff the contact areas. I am also laying down a 2 oz csm to embed these preforms. All the stringers will be covered with a final layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps64b63ed1.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps91e8c6ec.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1c155c4d.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psed18f132.jpg

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This rebuild rocks!...well, they all do but the materials you have access to is awesome. I contacted Prisma before starting mine but couldn't figure out what the project needed. It's great to see someone using this stuff.

This is awesome. I wish I had the access to these materials, this looks great! Can't wait to see more.

Thanks guys! I'm very lucky to have access to these material. To be honest, from where I am now with the build and what I originally planned, its ALOT different. There are a hundred ways to accomplish the same thing. As more different types of scrap become available, it changes my plan from week to week so my efficiency on the project isn't that great. Using the preforms changed my plans a bit, but I think it will be worth it. The boat will be alot lighter which will require less flotation and to have the flotation built into the stringers is awesome.

I like that you opted to remove the bow keel stringer. Had You been doing your build before me, I may have done the same. The idea never occurred to me until after I posted the completed stringer on here. Oh well. I have never driven my boat so I am not familiar with how I am going to place the ballast, if I use any at all. I am sure I will but I can always modify the boat for ballast in the future. I am just excited to have something to drive around and use again

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Originally Posted by lmnelson86

I like that you opted to remove the bow keel stringer. Had You been doing your build before me, I may have done the same. The idea never occurred to me until after I posted the completed stringer on here. Oh well. I have never driven my boat so I am not familiar with how I am going to place the ballast, if I use any at all. I am sure I will but I can always modify the boat for ballast in the future. I am just excited to have something to drive around and use again

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I can definitely understand the excitement of getting this done and being out on the water. It can be cut out after the cap is on. Might be a PITA, but it can be done.

I was able to glass in the beams this evening. I just need to "peanut butter" the joints and any voids before I add a layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd967e661.jpg

I test fit floors before I layed up 2 oz csm on each side.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps8duvwtpr.jpg

Glassed the 1st side.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pszwvrveaa.jpg

Picture of glassed untrimmed floors. I ran out of time so I have to trim and cut in the bilge inspection hatch.


http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd5b3osnt.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psvaall9t4.jpg

After trimming I will tab/tape to the stringers and hull, then do a layer of 1708.

Looking fantastic. You have done the hard part. The area you dont see. Now take pleasure in the rest which will be visible. Will be the lightest Supra out there.

What material did you decide on for the floors? Marine ply? What thickness is it?

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Originally Posted by suprasaltareaud

Looking fantastic. You have done the hard part. The area you dont see. Now take pleasure in the rest which will be visible. Will be the lightest Supra out there.

What material did you decide on for the floors? Marine ply? What thickness is it?

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Thanks! I am using 3/4" airex t90 foam. I had to adjust my stringer height to compensate for the thicker floor. I wish I was able to get a weight before I started. Here the link for the structural foam: http://www.3accorematerials.com/en/p...exreg-t90.html

Looking good, cant wait to see it once its all done. Are you going to use carpet again?

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Originally Posted by lmnelson86

Looking good, cant wait to see it once its all done. Are you going to use carpet again?

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Thanks man. I am putting new carpet it. I had plans last year to redo the floors so I already have carpet in storage waiting to be installed. This was way before I even knew about what was going on underneath!

Ha, nothing like a good surprise!

Yea dude, you should totally paint your boat. It'll be badass and now is the perfect time. You know you'll kick yourself later for not doing it while the boat is apart! Besides, with the access you have to your facilities its a no brainer!

I am going to hold off on redoing my interior until next year. I'm closing in on spring and I would like to use the boat to see what I like or do not like about the interior, and make adjustments next season. This way I am not wasting a perfectly new interior if I decide to make changes, be it ballast or layout of things.

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Originally Posted by lmnelson86

Ha, nothing like a good surprise!

Yea dude, you should totally paint your boat. It'll be badass and now is the perfect time. You know you'll kick yourself later for not doing it while the boat is apart! Besides, with the access you have to your facilities its a no brainer!

I am going to hold off on redoing my interior until next year. I'm closing in on spring and I would like to use the boat to see what I like or do not like about the interior, and make adjustments next season. This way I am not wasting a perfectly new interior if I decide to make changes, be it ballast or layout of things.

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Man...I still have to play it by ear. Its already warm here so I'll have to see. Your boat is looking good though.

I got some work done this weekend. I taped up the the exterior knuckle and laid a layer of csm and trevira on the inside knuckle. This seals all the holes previously made by the screws and rivets that secure the deck to the hull. This also provides a backing so I can secure the hull and deck without rivets.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pspxhc4xt5.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps4lpngpi0.jpg


http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psn7praq3c.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psohgapppo.jpg

I test fit the deck to check floor height and locations. I marked the locations that I will be glassing in trevira.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pstdmgmoll.jpg

I have a crack in the aft deck at the ski locker so I have to do some repairs. I flipped the deck over to do those repairs and to replace the exposed wood backing plates.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psokzmvqyj.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pskigghdlq.jpg

I will also be cutting out the forward closeouts in the bow and replacing it with a coring material to give me more storage for ballast.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psm3f0vztj.jpg

I marked up the floor to for reference and to mark where I will be placing trevira.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1cuwnufm.jpg

I used aquaplast for the motor mount offset.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psrrmb6oft.jpg

Another view of the exposed wood backing that I will be replacing with aquaplast.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pslhsv6st0.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psdjsqmcho.jpg

Wow. No disrespect to any of the other restorations but that is the best resto i have ever seen. I rhink you should change the manufacture date of your boat to built in 2015. I have no doubt the quality of materials and workmanship is better than any wakeboard boat out there. If one day you decide to sell her you would be able to get absolute top dollar. If not let me know and ill buy it.
well done so far. Absolutely awesome job. I take my hat off to you.

Luke, your restoration is very impressive also. You too have given me the confidence and will to attack mine. After rebuilding the motor i feel it deserves a strong and refreshed hull to match. Im nearly out of summer and things are cooling down. The time is just about right. Thanks to both of you I hace a good idea on materials and processes to use. I might ask for some guidance on the way though. Hope that's ok. Cheers guys. Jason

Last thing. As far as painting is concerned your gelcoat looks to be in pretty good condition. Wouldnt a good cut, polish and wax bring her back to brand new without the extra costs of decals, paint which wont come out like gelcoat and a heap of headaches if you do try and gelcoat her?

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Originally Posted by suprasaltareaud

Luke, your restoration is very impressive also. You too have given me the confidence and will to attack mine. After rebuilding the motor i feel it deserves a strong and refreshed hull to match. Im nearly out of summer and things are cooling down. The time is just about right. Thanks to both of you I hace a good idea on materials and processes to use. I might ask for some guidance on the way though. Hope that's ok. Cheers guys. Jason

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Jason, thanks very much! It has been a fun project. You should have no worries in restoring your boat, its easy and there is plenty of information on here. It just takes time.
Flipz - lookin good. I have to reinforce my top deck for a tower, so Ill be doing something similar as well.

How are you planning on securing top to bottom without rivets?

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Originally Posted by suprasaltareaud

Last thing. As far as painting is concerned your gelcoat looks to be in pretty good condition. Wouldnt a good cut, polish and wax bring her back to brand new without the extra costs of decals, paint which wont come out like gelcoat and a heap of headaches if you do try and gelcoat her?

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Yeah...my gelcoat isn't bad at all and the wrap is still in good shape. So I might ride it out for a couple years. I have to do some minor repair on the aft deck ski locker, but I can get a good gelcoat match. There are a lot of things I want to do, but don't have the time to do it since the warm weather is already here.

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Originally Posted by suprasaltareaud

How are you planning on securing top to bottom without rivets?

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The trevira that I lined the inside of the hull knuckle provides a good backing that receives screws similar to wood.

This is a close up of the aquaplast that I used for the engine mount. I will be using this for cleats for the removable floor and the center walk through just forward of the engine.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pspequhken.jpg

I put in 6 limber tubes for stringer drainage...just in case. I taped up one side (to keep the resin out of it), used thickened resin to "peanut butter" them in, and all I need to do is cut them flush after it sets.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psthhjbtdw.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psnu1mejlc.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psaorefcxa.jpg

That looks awesome. I should have done the same thing with the PVC I the limber holes, but I didn't think of it til after the fact. Oh well. I thought about fiberglassing the back side of the hull where all the holes are, so I have fresh material to screw into. Maybe I will still do that before I put her back together. It cant hurt...maybe Ill go pick up some fiberglass tape today.

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Originally Posted by lmnelson86

I thought about fiberglassing the back side of the hull where all the holes are, so I have fresh material to screw into. Maybe I will still do that before I put her back together. It cant hurt...maybe Ill go pick up some fiberglass tape today.

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Fiberglass itself don't hold screws very well which is why they use alot of rivets. Trevira looks and feels similar to a thick felt and hardens like a thin piece of wood when soaked in resin. If I didn't have access to the trevira I would resin coat a test piece of felt from the fabric store. Let it cure and drive a screw in it. I would imagine it would a have the same effect.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pstkn4gyey.jpg

I stuffed most of the voids between the sole and stringer with this 2lb closed cell foam that I cut to shape. This was scrap foam from a 53' boat stringer build.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psobxivemr.jpg

I used PL glue and screws to secure the floors to the stringers. I mainly used the PL glue to "sure up" the tops of the stringers to ensure good contact. The sub floor was stuffed good with the shaped 2 lb foam so that they also provide support. I also "taped" in the sides using foam chamfers and 2 layers of 2 oz csm and taped in the inner floor to the main stringers using a layer of 3610.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps3nlk5ub4.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psfrp30mzg.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psqdr21m19.jpg

I also added aquaplast cleats underneath the forward center walk through panel for additional support. There is also an aquaplast backing on the the other side of the stringer. These will get glassed in. I will do the same for the aft removable floor.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psn5jcz48c.jpg

I forgot to mention a while back that the forward center panel had additional coring glassed to them for more rigidity.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psgweokwna.jpg

My rear blower ducting was in bad shape. It broke and at the bottom and some of the flanging came of.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pswv1fplgd.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pshauv2luj.jpg

The aft floors were a little jagged due to sanding so to "sure it up", I waxed two pieces of wood, laid the glass, screwed the wood to the removable floor land, and used the roller to massage the resin and glass to the hard edge. I let it cure, pulled up the wood, and it worked out perfect.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pstm1rlwyz.jpg

The floor gets another two layers of 1708.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pszhudnqt8.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps3x7wbxbp.jpg

I just need to do a final light sand and and paint the bilge and the motor is ready to be dropped. I already precut the carpet. The floor is pretty solid.

Pretty solid? I don't know anything about a lot of these materials, but it looks bullet proof. And it's got to be hundreds of pounds lighter than the original.

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Originally Posted by TitanTn

Pretty solid? I don't know anything about a lot of these materials, but it looks bullet proof. And it's got to be hundreds of pounds lighter than the original.

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Thanks! It definitely will. Can't wait to be done!

I painted the floors, bilge, and transom with bilge paint. Since fiberglass isn't technically water proof, I used this as a barrier coat. I added flakes to the areas that may be exposed. Once this dries, I will glue in the carpet.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psms1uyvx0.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps8ai0h7hu.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psaahjn3tb.jpg

I got the motor dropped in.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pshzjkqwu2.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pskby2rfa1.jpg

Bow bulkheads/closeouts were removed. They will be replaced with a couple layers of travira and glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psy3jyszai.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psxno8qofe.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...pse9xnuz6i.jpg

My girlfriend helped removing the exposed wood. This will be replaced with trevira and 3/4" aquaplast where the tower mounts.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psqccz0l5o.jpg

This is a job well done! WIsh i could have done mine all composite, you are very lucky to have those resources available!

This boat is going to be awesome, looking great. I love all of the composite work as well.

Looking good.

Here's another close up of the area that will be exposed when lifting the cushions, engine box, etc.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psgeais80d.jpg

I laid up some trevira where the bow closeouts used to be. I'll add another layer of glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psrcjpdwra.jpg

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps4pkdggc2.jpg

I used PL adhesive to secure the 3/4" aquaplast where the tower mounts to the deck and used 3 clamps to hold it while it kicks. These will also get a layer of glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...psbzetlua1.jpg

I made my removable floor with 1/2" ABS plastic. Since I was using the 3/4" (plus glass) Airex foam for my floors and once I lay the carpet, it should lay flush.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps4tlgthic.jpg

I also used csm on the underside of the deck knuckle. I tried not to lay heavy since there isn't much room. I still have to cut/grind the excess glass.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps7a67qjjo.jpg