Looks like it is coming along. I think I'd just make the mounts solid if it were me. Look at how Salty did it.
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Looks like it is coming along. I think I'd just make the mounts solid if it were me. Look at how Salty did it.
WWSD (What Would Salty Do)? Def going back with solid. Just thinking of leaving the fiberglass "skins" bonded in place on the hull edge and build-up under and around them with solid wood. The glass is pretty stiff in its own right and could serve as a permanent pattern so the holes all stay in original locations.
Oh, gotcha. That was a little bit of a stress point for me because I went totally off measurements. However, you have some wiggle room if you are off a bit when you put the engine back in. Is yours like Salty's where there are depressions right where the engine mounts?
Couldn't get the wood off of the engine mount glass skins, so had to rebuild from scratch. Lots of measurements - I hope it's right!
Mine didn't have indentations for the mounts. In fact, the front mounts were slightly elevated on plywood pads glassed in (they're not in place yet in the pics). Mounts are now solid instead of the original hollow (still can't believe that one!!!). Solid composite (oxymoron?) of 3/4 ply and lumber with a layer of glass between each piece. Still have to glass another layer of ply on the backside that runs along the length of the engine, add x-braces, tank support, etc. Hope to take advantage of the long weekend & be ready to glass the floor in next week.
Noticed something odd while lookiing at my "bent" strut. The upright is slightly bent, but looks like the bore runs fairly parallel to the hull centerline. However it looks like the shaft log is not set in square - angled so that the aft end is cocked to starboard. This makes the the strut look worse since the two bores don't line up well. Is the shaft log supposed to run parallel to the hull centerline, or is it offset to overcome torque steer or other reasons? It's in real solid & looks like the hull is molded that way where the shaft exits the bottom.
It looks like you're coming along nicely. IIRC, my bore was straight to the centerline. It may not matter that much as longas you start your alignment at the strut and work towards the engine.
I'm gonna have to break out the laser level to verify - but eyeballing it, it sure looks like the rear of the shaft log is angled to starboard (from the factory).
Hard to get a good pic, but from the transom it appears that the strut upright is slightly bent to starboard with the bore still relatively parallel to the keel. However, if I look through the strut bore, the shaft log looks outta whack. If I look from the inside of the boat through the shaft log, the two bores definitely are not concentric. It looks like there is enough clearance for the shaft to make a straight shot through both, but it won't be concentric in the shaft log.
Will this give me shaft seal problems (was gonna switch to dripless PSS mechanical seal)? Should I rip out the shaft log and align it with the keel centerline?. Or, should I straighten the strut and align it with the shaft log (will I just go around in circles if the thrust is not parallel with the keel?)
so im neew here but i have an 89 supra saltaire, and this weekend i broke the steering cable! so i was wondering if any one hase replaced one on this boat before and if they had any picture of how they did it, also why is there two cables on this thing?
thanks
Welcome aboard the board!
Sorry to hear about the broken steering cable:confused: Can't help with "replacement", but can tell you how I "removed" mine (just finished the floor, so "install" should be just be reversed soon.
Two cables? Typically these inboards only have one steering cable. It's the big black one in the below under dash pic. The two red ones are throttle and trans shifter. You'll have to pull the rear seats and rear center floor section (probably the gas tank as well, unless you've got long arms and can work by feel). Once you have access to the tiller arm, remove the cable end from the tiller. Next if it's not obvious, mark the location of the clamp block (it's attached to the bracket on the strut mount) on the support tube and then remove the support tube from the clamp block, then remove the support tube from the cable. Now move to the front under the dash. Unscrew the nut attaching the cable to the helm and turn the steering wheel to help feed the cable out of the helm. Be careful - the cable end should be covered in grease & could make a mess. Once both ends are free, check for any intermediate clamps that may be holding the cable in the bilge. You can now feed the front of the cable down into the bilge and remove the cable from the rear.
Measure the length of the cable tip to tip for the correct replacement length. It's a 3300 style - I'd go with the new TFXtreme. Installation should be reversed - I think? Make sure the front end of the cable is completely inserted into the helm and to secure the clamp block to the support tube in the previous marked location for a good starting point in alignment. Probably have to play around with the steering wheel and support tube to get things centered.
Hope this helps & good luck!
awsome thanks! yeah i just took a look at mine again and i have a large red one that comes out the bottom of the steering unit and goes down the center of the boat then i have a smaller gray one that comes out of the top of the unit then goes down the side of the boat, and thats the one that broke and as i turned the wheel it started too bundle up under the dash, if i can find my camera ill post some pictures.
Had a lull in the action for awhile (work, family, life, etc..), but hit another milestone this weekend - the trailer's gone! Of course, forgot to take pics of the stripped trailer - it was a sad sight & looked naked with no fenders, bunks, winch, lights, etc.
My truck's been banished to the driveway for awhile now that the top cap sits on a roller dolly in it's garage bay. I used the same method and winches from when I pulled the top cap. Hooked one winch to the inside of the bow eye bracket and the other to the transom lift ring that I had temporarily re-installed. Was concerned about lifting at the two ends without the top cap for support, but musta done something right with the new stringers/floor cause nothing sagged, moved, creaked, or cracked. Once the hull was clear by a few inches, I pulled the trailer out, & then nervously crawled under and fabbed a new roller cradle, & sat it back down. I can actually roll it around by myself thanks to 6 chinese Harbor Freight furniture dollies. The wife wouldn't let me take up her last remaining bay, so quickly hauled the trailer out to get powder coated. We'll have to talk once the trailer's back (new bunks, lights, brakes, etc.).
Looking really good! Did you paint bilgekote on the entire floor?
Actually, it's gelcoat over the entire floor and bilge. Wanted to play around with splatter technique for the bilge & figured it wouldn't hurt the floor to have another coat and carpet would eventually cover up the test area anyway.
Good news, used up the last of some scrap (free) white gelcoat on the floor & the black splatter worked out pretty cool. Bad news, my buddy's other leftover (free) can of gelcoat labeled GR turned out to be green (kinda seafoamy) not gray as I thought. It was already catalyzed, so I shot it. Keep telling myself it'll all be covered up & it's just a bilge, but not sure if I'll keep the green.
Man that 3rd picture makes your boat look like a SHIP!! Man it looks long and big. Nice job man. Jet
I think the green is pretty cool. It's something different! Almost all bilges are white or grey. Your's will be a bit unique.
Awsome job you are doing- I kinda like the green, Its a custom touch for sure!
Been making some progress of late, but a little remiss on taking pics. Finally got the trailer complete enough to bring back home (my buddy's wife was reeaal understanding having it sit in their backyard & me working on it at odd hours for weeks). Man, I hate working outdoors this time of year!
Had had a welder modify for new actuator, winch & jack mounts. I torched new openings for added back up lights. Had the trailer blasted & powdercoated, fabbed & installed new bunks (carpeted PT 2x6), installed new LED lights all around, and mounted new F2 winch & jack. I pulled the suspension, blasted and painted, and installed 14 new bushings before reinstalling. Then installed new grease seals, repacked the bearings and new bearing buddies. Installed the new swing away actuator & disc brakes on one axle and remounted the tires on "new" used aluminum rims.
Brought the trailer home last weekend & winched the hull back into the rafters, slid the trailer under & lowered back down. Then pulled it out of the garage, reconfigured my Rube Goldberg contraption for lifting the top cap (2 winches, 8 pulleys, a mile of rope, & 2 ladders). Wheeled the top cap back to my lifting area & raised the cap. Backed the boat & trailer back underneath & lowered the cap for a trial fit. It wouldn't fit. My new floor is 3/4" higher than original (Doh!), so trimmed the bottom edge of the top cap liner & it went together nicely. The floor holes for the air vents, cables, ice chest drain, etc. are all close enough, as well. Yea!
With the hull finally back on the trailer, I could then properly fit the new fenders. I couldnt' find direct replacements for the oddball sized fenders, so went with some aluminum diamond plate's that were close enough. A little judicious bending with my highly calibrated knee and foot & they finally fit (3/4" higher than original, but I feel better & think they still look good with the extra clearance). The new carpeted PT plywood fender liners should cradle the hull nicely on loading. Finally, added some functional bling with matching diamond plate step covers (cooler on the bare feet than black metal). Forgot how messy cutting aluminum is - I still have aluminum glitter all over the garage despite 2 cleanings.
Still have a few minor details on the trailer - polish up on of the old rims best I can & mount spare tire carrier, cut chains to length, bush the wiring frame holes, & think I'm gonna try to carpet wrap pvc covers for the guide poles the PO had welded on, etc.
Next is to pull the top cap (again) & clean up a few areas on the floor & bilge before laying carpet (black roll laying under the trailer in pics). Also going to change up the bracing under the playpen for more open storage of ballast sacs, glass in tower mount supports, & rewire the top cap before mating the halves one last time.
Man, coming along NICELY. That trailer looks great! Sucks you were a little off, but it shouldn't hurt anything that you trimmed the bottom of the top cap, I would think.
Whooaaa..... you just ended up with a brand new trailer! How much did they charge you to blast and powercoat it?
Your supra dealer (or ebay in the spring) will have Supra branded guide-pole pads. Believe me... It's a much better idea to get the real ones!
Yeah, sucked having to trim the cap. Not sure how I messed up that very basic dimension, but just means I have even more solid structure down below now (ha ha, see how easy it is to justify screw ups). Since I was already cutting (and itchy), I went ahead and opened up an access behind the observer's seat to slide my batteries in under the storage area.
Had to look around for an oven big enough to load a 24' trailer, but lots of heavy industry in Houston. $600 cash to blast & powdercoat the trailer (they r&r'd the suspension - can't cook springs, brakes, etc.), 3 engine pulleys, rub rail cap piece, and 20 pieces of windshield frame. Deal was contingent on using it as filler work, and of course they took a big job right after I dropped it off so ended up taking 5 weeks to get it back. Put me farther behind schedule, but the price break was worth it - it sure is purty. Now if I can just get the boat as nice...
Looking good! Makes me want to brush the snow and ice of my beast and get to work :). . .. . Looking like that isn't going to happen until the new year.
Keep up the good work Mike!
Cheers and Happy Holiday's!
Gorgeous work on the trailer. I'm going to have to do something similar this spring and I hope it comes close to what you've done. The hook up on the nose looks a little different than normal. What did you do there? If it's what it looks like, I'd think it'd really protect the nose from damage as you load. I've got some damage on mine and I've noticed others have some issues there as well.
Mike, you don't mess around, that trailer is righteous!
Better than factory.... Wait till summer, you won't be able to get her in the water with out a croud of drewlers!!!
Titan - Here's a better pic of how the bow attached to the trailer. The angled support is hinged down at the vee support and lays flat while loading. Once the boat is located properly fore/aft, the brace is raised so the bow eye protrudes thru a slot in the brace and the winch clip locks it all in place. Simple & elegant way to lock things down, but I can see some issues in getting things lined up just right - I only loaded it twice (purchase test drive and one quick outing) before I tore her apart. I've only seen this set up on one other Randall's VIP trailer also under an '89 Salt & the owner said it could be a PITA. Guess time will tell, but it's what I got.
ngavdba - thanks (nice title btw ;)) Now if the Stabil will just keep ethanol from contaminating my Dylithium crystals, me & Scottie can finish getting this ship outta space dock.
Wotan - good advice, I was the successful (only) bidder. Waiting on delivery, but I'm sure it's 28 bucks well spent to not have to hassle with making ghetto guide pole covers.
That device will be very time consuming to get right every time. A simple 1.5" wide ratchet strap might do just as good and without the alignment issues. Is there any chance the steel flat stock can rub the bow of the boat near the hook???
Mike,
I had that set-up on my old 85' Ski Supreme. Getting the fore/aft alignment isn't too bad, but be careful when loading on steep ramps. The PO of that boat locked everything down nice and tight, but didn't realize the back of the boat was still floating. When he pulled up the ramp the boat settled down on the trailer, pivoting on the lower V-bunk, and pulled the lifiting eye right through the bow of the boat. It was a bear to fix when I got it.
Just some food for thought.:o
Thanks for the heads up! I sure had not thought of that possibility - ouch!
Since you have some experience - what do you think about getting the boat positioned fore/aft on the ramp, raising the brace and attaching the winch clip through the bow eye to secure the boat to the trailer, but then leaving some slack in the winch strap? This should allow some movement as the boat "settles" on the trailer as it's pulled out. Then tighten the winch once on level ground.
Any other hints or techniques?
Daff - The angle of the brace matches the hull pretty good & it's a static hand fasten operation, but I've had the same concern. Thought about plasti-dipping the end of the brace or maybe even one of those keel guard kits that come with a thin gauge s/s, self adhesive, protecter plates that mount around the bow eye.
Thanks
I would get rid of that goofy loading setup. I would find it a pain as I don't powerload. Depending on the ramp I use one is impossible as it's full exposed to the tide current so I have one person hold to lines on the boat (only load when it's pulling away from dock) then throw bow line to me at trailer and I pull it on, hook the winch and crank it up while helper holds the stern. Other ramp is shelteredd so I idle onto the bunks then hook the winch and crank the last bit. Either way, get trailer depth golden for the ramp angle and the boat just aligns on the trailer by itself. I would be nervous powering all the way up with a big piece of metal right at the bow eye that could take a chunk out of the glass if not perfectly aligned.
I also always have a safety chain from the bow eye to the winch post, as I don't trust a strap 100%, then strap down the stern after pulled off the ramp.
Just my thoguhts on the matter as I usually use ramps that have insanely strong currents... Like wakes coming off the docks from the current. If you always have perfect calm water with no current it may not be that big a deal.
cadunkle - I this he was saying that the metal piece is hinged where it's mounted on the trailer and therefore is not vertical while loading. It's actually laying flat and completely out of the way.
Apparently the biggest issue is just trying to get the boat in the right position so the metal piece fits over the bow eye. If you power load, this might be difficult, but if you winch it up, this seems like it'd be fairly straight-forward. My Saltare has some minor bow damage from the roller. The angle is never good and there is a lot of pressure asserted from the rubrail down as the boat is loaded. I think either my bow stop needs to be reconfigured or maybe done away with all together and put something like this in place.
sybermike - I'll be interested to hear how much you like this (or don't) as you get more time with it. Thanks for the pic.
Yeah, it's hinged at the base and lays flat on the trailer until needed. That's part of the alignment problem - when loading, there's no reference point (bow roller) to locate the eye. Thinking about putting a small mark on the hull at the vee bunk as the reference point.
Like all boats, it's probably just a matter of experience to figure out the sweet spot just how far to sink the trailer for easiest loading.
Here are a couple of pictures of my old boat on the trailer. You can see I had to either power load or really sink the trailer because there was not a winch.
Your loading description is right on target. Your boat/trailer might not be as sensitive because it does have a winch and strap. My old boat had a hook and a turnbuckle.
If you ever get to the ramp to unload and can't get the metal arm to swing down because it is stuck on the bow eye, lift up on the bow of the boat and the arm should drop on out.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Patrick. Since I have a winch, I plan on just using the brace while towing. Unhook winch strap, lower the brace, reattach winch hook and back down the ramp with just the winch strap.
Sharp looking Supreme btw.
Didn't realize it was hinged. Still seems irritating. If it's hinged it can't be as strong as a normal bow stop. Was this used to keep the boat from going back off the trailer if the winch strap snapped? Seems more trouble than it's worth compared to a traditional winch post with safety chain and stern straps.
Well, my earlier concern that the strut was bent proved correct. Now that the hull's back on the "new" trailer, I could crawl underneath (didn't trust my hull dolly design enough for that) and see a wear mark on the hull near the shaft log. Once the strut was out (dang, 21 year old 5200 is still strong stuff), you could really see that things weren't square.
62 bucks later, it's now straight & looks good as new (the polished finish will make it go faster, right?). :)
Good news, the shaft rolls flat & appears straight.
Started cleaning up the gas tank a bit & checked the sender while I was at it - open, no resistance & only half a cork float left. Skidim, here I come (again).
Nice! You'll have to keep it polished to keep it streamlined ;-)
Very nice! How did you straighten the strut?
Looks like gold! Better break out the lacquer to keep it that way.
I've yet to drop off all my nibral for rebuild after a rock incident in Sept. I'm pretty sure I'll pay for what ever polishing fee they want. That thing looks sweet!!
Titan - I took it to a marine repair shop down on the ship channel (shoulda taken a pic of the 8' dia prop they were working on!).
Chatted it up with the manager & turns out he did a Supra Beast cap off resto many years ago. Guess he took pity on me & threw in the polish job. Not gonna be too anal about keeping it shiney (although I did put on a coat of wax), but it is pretty while it lasts.
Which will likely be the first time it goes in then out of the water. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by sybrmike