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http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/d4c0d040.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/ba4b3a0c.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/f223b926.jpgSO WAS THIS THE PEANUT BUTTER YALL WERE TALKIN ABOUT LOL HA HAhttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/17262bb4.jpg
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/9d48a6c1.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/2427cd90.jpgIM OFF TO START THE GLASS WORK , ALL FILLETS ARE COMPLETE TO THE BEST I COULD DO , THAT PL GLUE WORKS BETTER WHEN ITS COOLER , IM GOING TO MAKE SOME SMALL BULK HEADS IN BETWEEN THE STRINGERS , THEN GLASS SOME CLEATS TO THE STRINGERS FOR THE DECK TO MOUNT , BUT I HAVE A QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS , MY STRINGERS ARE ABOUT A HALF " HIGH , WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD WAY TO CUT THEM TO DECK HEIGHT AFTER ALL MY TABBING IS CURED ?
is that PL stuff your using sim to 5200? could 5200 be used for the bedding?
5200 is some pricey stuff ben , but it can be used to bed the stringers, i used 1/4" foam squares to get a good gap , then cut the hole tube and emptied into a bag (pastry style) and used that to pack it in there .. and smooth out with putty spreader , just know that you want to put weight on to the stringers the whole time till your ready to start tabbing them to the deck , i used 1 part CSM and 1708 on top of that and wet them both together , the 1708 is some great stuff to work with ... it will conform to alot of tough areas ... good luck and share some pictures ... and when you cut your stringers take a little off at a time .. my angle was 21 degrees to a twist ... lol that was not fun !
it's great to see all of the progress. everyone manages to put their own signature touches on rebuilds, that's the best part to watch.
do you have a guide for a circular saw to trim the stringers? also, you'll want to take the corners off the tops so you can wrap cloth. it won't make a 90 degree angle worth a damn. you might practice wrapping a scrap piece. grinding a crappy glassing layup off your new stringers sucks.
i'll ship that cloth this week, it's been in may car for weeks.
i think i am going to go home this weekend so i will try to get mine cut and laid. question though, where the engine mounts is that sittin off the hull or is it bedded? Also i thought that PL stuff was around 12 bucks a tube? i have seen 5200 for 12 bucks a tube?
Great progress - keep it up!
Salty beat me to it - but I second the recommendation to round over the top edges of the stringers. I used a router and 1/4 or 3/8" radius bit to get a smooth curve that the glass would lay over. Also, wooden tongue depressors work good for laying down a nice fillet (but I used some roven woven in my hull/stringer joint layup & needed a wide fillet). It doesn't have to be baby butt smooth, but spend a little time prepping the fillets & radii and the glass will lay down so much easier.
salt - whats up brotha , well i wanted a tough solid floor so i went 2x everywhere ... lol , i plan to take a round over bit with my router to make a rounded top .... but , one thing i didnt do was compensate for the fillets as much as i needed too .. im only 1/2" high toward the bow , i think when i round them over it will pop up on my tape , ?? So i Tabbed both stringers with one layer of CSM and one of 1708 biax ... how many layers do you think ill need ? cause that 1708 is some tough stuff but i wanted to make sure so i layed the CSM before ... lol I used nearly 5 gal just on one side !! and man poly is some strong stuff !! let me know what the shipping is and ill mail the amount to the return address .... thanks for all the help too ....( I have a rip gauge for my circular saw that what you meant right ? )
Ben - PL runs 6.99 for the big tubes where i live ... at Homedepot . For the engine mounts i used cabosil and 1/2 CSM strands to make the fillets , I used some left over doug fir and some stainless through bolts .... to squeeze them togethere
Looking good. I definitely agree with rounding over the wood. For your spot where you're too tall, you can attack it in a lot of different ways. If you can really get a good mark on the wood so you have a nice straight line and have a good guide for the circular saw, go that route. Other wise you might try a power planer and then a belt sander. Before you wrap that wood put some thinned resin or CPES on it...that will help the wood be less susceptible to rot.
how many layers did yall used to encapsulate the stringers ?
i have heard 2 on outter and 3-4 on main?
As I mentioned before I exclusively used 1708 on the structural pieces. I put three layers on the main stringers and the engine mounting area, although the engine mounting area overlaps onto the stringer after it had been wrapped so there are areas of that stringer that are 5-6 layers thick right in there. I put two layers on the secondary stringers and tab plus a layer on the ribs. The ribs have most of them covered in 2 layers because of how I did the tabbing, but not 100%.
ok well i tabbed them to the hull with 1 layer csm and 1 1708 , how much sanding do i need to do some more lay ups of 1708 ? cause what i plan to do is build the other side ... get the floor height , cut to floor height , and cap the stringers with 1708 and 10oz wovin rovin ... ? any thoughts ?
Between layers - sand just enough to take the ridges & high spots off so the next layer will lay down smooth without bubbles. Also you want to rough up everything to take the sheen off the previous resin & wipe down with solvent to help get a good bond. Extend each successive layer ~1/2" beyond the previous edge to get a smooth transition.
Thanks Mike - That clears up my thoughts on layups ... I ran out of resin so im waiting for my local store to get there fresh stock in .... be looking for more pics !
let see some pics of that fiberglass work lively!
HA ha ... ill be home this weekend and ill take some pics
So i got me a 80 gal single stage compressor for 130.00 off Craigslist and im rebuilding the pump this weekend , Its been rainy all week here and is deff a good thing cause are lakes need it !!
With that said , I plan to mark my new stringer for absolute deck height , then cut the other side out and start some more grinding .. I think im going to wait on cutting the deck lip out .. until i know for sure where i need to be , I have got till the 1st of December to get the floor finished and sealed ,, ( my goal ) and I have ordered another 5 gal of poly for the other side ... but at-least ill know what im doing now lol ....
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/a51620a0.jpghere is just a small shot of the 2 layers of tabbing I did , I'm cutting out and grinding the other side this weekend and I'll take some more pics when I get there .. Hope everyone is doing good on there projects and feel free to write some comments , thanks , lively
Making some good progress!
looks good. nice glass work. what are your center stringers? they kind of look like LVL'sQuote:
Originally Posted by lively
Rlhahn - The main and outer stringers are both douglas fir , and i pre coated them with 3 layers of Poly ..
Here are some more pics of the cutting and grinding of the other side , I used a 4" cutoff wheel and ran down the bottom to save the stringer shape , I ground down the outer that was all the time I had, due to the rain storms ... But I'll have some more pics and info soon ...http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/722b2555.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/91a2a723.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/8911d4c3.jpg
I mounted the top cap to some pallets and started marking the holes and imperfections that need fixin , I still need to get the prop shaft and rudder out , where could I find another rubber bellow for the drive line ? http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/2c1f3674.jpg
Looks good Lively. Skidm for your prop shaft bellows and rudder parts.
Leave the old floor flanges until the last to use for reference. BUT, we should never assume that the factory had it 100%.
Ha ha , yeah the factory did not design proper drainage for these boats , and too tell you the truth they are not that bad to work on once you have figured it all out lol , I'm gonna call skidm about the bellow .. Thanks for the kudos and info
Looks like good progress - keep it up. I don't see any limber holes in the stringers (yet?). If you're going back foamless, don't forget to open up some passages & let her breath down below and glass the openings real good. Like Bdumas said, keep those old lips in as reference for floor height. I didn't & ended up a little high on the floor & had to trim my top cap to fit at the rear - oops. Fortunately, the top cap flange on the Salt is flat, so was no big deal. However, I think the Sunsports have an L-flange where the cap meets the floor, so correct floor height is more critical.
subrmike - Yes i haven't put the limber holes in yet , i notched the rear main and then when i start with my bulk heads im gonna incorporate a drainage design , probably should have drilled the holes first , but i think i can get at it ... I want NO foam in this boat at all .. lol
And for the L flange where the cap meets the floor mine are stress cracked , so im having the guy the panels my company's elevator doors , fab up so mirrored stainless mounting plates with a rounded edge ... its only costing me 50 bucks so i said what the hell ... and I removed my prop and rudder assembly last night so i can get to more of the grinding this weekend ... I still have ?'s about what thickness of flooring to go with ... what i cut off was 3/8" and that seems a little weak for a deck .. so I think if i can get away with it i'd like to go with a true 1/2" and mount the floor to some cleats on the side of the stringers so im not screwing into my new stringers ....
How did you cut your stringers for deck height? thanks again , lively
I used a skill saw to rough cut, angle grinder to to take a little bit more where needed, a belt sander to even it all out, then a router to soften the top edges for the glass to lay down. After the stringer tops were glassed, I cut the floor panels to fit and pre-glassed the underside and edges of the 1/2" ply floor. To fasten the floor, I laid down a few strips of mat saturated with resin on top of the stringers/bulkheads, then predrilled and countersunk each screw hole through the floor and into the stringer, filled the hole with resin, then drove the s/s screw down. After it set up, I glassed all the seams and filled over the top of the screws before glassing the top of the floor.
I like your idea of cleats glassed to the sides of the stringers - no holes in the new stringers. Also, I had gotten a quote from one shop that didn't use fasteners at all. They just lay down thick layer of saturated mat over the stringer tops (where I stole the idea from), then had a pallet of old batteries that they would spread out over the top of the floor to hold it down while the resin set.
lively, on my '90 Mariah, the 'bellows' on the drive shaft looks to be just a piece of 2" hose(from the factory)
yeah i was thinking of just using a hose , I have been looking for a rack&pinion boot , or shock boot .. but i think ill go with a hose ...
Thanks for all the write ups guys .. it really helps smooth my thoughts lol , perfection is hard to master , but as long as everything goes somewhat smooth im cool with that lol ... here is one of the swim platform i sanded down and prepped for teak oil http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/420b866b.jpg
I plan to have all this grinding done this weekend , and start cutting and laying new wood next weekend . thanks again -lively-
You're coming along nicely. As sybr mentioned you can "fasten" or "glue" the deck. I went the "glue" route and just laid a bed of thickened epoxy along the tops of all the stringers and ribs. I then laid the plywood that had already been glassed on the other side in place. I placed sandbags around to weight it down until the resin set. Once all of them were done I did a fillet at the edge that met the upper hull, then tabbed in all edges with 1708 tape. Finally I laid down a layer of mat, then cloth over the entire surface.
So I woorked some on the boat this weekend and started sanding on the top cap to start prep for fiber puddy and primer , I did get the other side of stringers ground down and i went ahead and removed the rear transom / platform boards , and ground down those also ... lol i rebuild my 4 clyinder compressor pump , later to find out i need a two stage to handle all this sanding and grinding ... but enough about that here are some pics http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/8263ff40.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/c7759547.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/ecfc0d40.jpg
Can some one tell me what type of steering cable i have and if there is any method on greasing the cable ? mine is real tight , I did get it to turn inside though so i know its not broke ... I also drilled a hole on the cable clasp to shoot oil in there but i can seem to free things up .. any thoughts ? http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/a61b4fba.jpg thanks guys , -lively-
Time to replace. If it's tight, it's already too late. Skidim sells the whole kit with the helm (which is what you need) but if you search around you can find it cheaper....
yeah i seen those on there ... im guessing a 19 ft cable and helm ? .... I wonder why you cant maintenance these cables ? kinda leads me to some grease sert ideas ... and is this a rotary cable im guessin ?
looks good, how hard was it to get your rudder assembly apart? i still got to get mine off. I prob will not be back home till thanksgiving to do any work on mine.
Ben - It wasn't that bad , I took my seals out and cleaned the inside with a rag , heated the base and the stem from inside the boat and took a flooring pry bar and a long standard screwdriver and heated and pried till the bottom plate fell out and then i soaked them in degrease r , just heat it up it will bust loose ...
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Ok guys I tryed my damnist to get the other side tabbed I'n , but the dew point and and outside temp told me to hold off ... So I PL the main stringer I'n and let it set up till the next sunny day .. We are bout to get some rain so just playing the waiting game ... Hope everyone enjoyed there weekend ! -lively-
Lookin' good. Good call on not bucking mother nature - fighting resin cure is messy and no fun. As the saying goes, sometimes discretion is the better part of valor.
Sybrmike- thanks , and I almost started too but I knew I was going to be pushing it ... Now it's raining and under 65 degrees lol but I should have all of it tabbed I'n and then cut for deck height next weekend .. Trying to have the deck laid before Chrismas to stay on my plan dates