1989 Saltare - My god Spock, what have I done???

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Originally Posted by sybrmike

1. Obviously, I'll be pulling the engine & trans. It was running fine but planning on rebuilding the carb (it looks nasty), upgrade to electronic distributor, new impeller, belts & hoses, riser gaskets (rust indicating leaks), & general detail & paint. Should I also remove the rudder & drive shaft & plan on new packing while I'm at it (there didn't appear to be any leaks)?

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I would leave the rudder as long as it isn't leaking. I would pull the shaft though.

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Originally Posted by sybrmike

2. If the drive shaft goes, is it out the top or bottom (remove prop or coupling)

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Like Salty said, you can go either way. I removed my prop and pulled the shaft out the top with the coupler still instact..

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Originally Posted by sybrmike

3. I have the same rudder and tiller arm as Okie. I know it was a PITA to get out, but never saw the details of how it finally came out. Any words of wisdom in hindsight, Okie? How is it sealed? Packing? - I don't see a zerk.

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I haven't gotten mine out yet. I messed with it for a while and kinda gave up. Once I "need" to get it out I will. Mine leaks some, so I want to fix it before I put the boat completely back together. It looks like I may need to use some sort of puller. That seems to be the general concensus.

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Originally Posted by sybrmike

4. Besides measure, measure, measure - any hints on building the motor mounts back in the right location/dimensions? I was thinking of making cross section templates that span the keel where the mounts are.

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Measure and make drawings. Use the old sections you cut out as a reference. I'm taking out and putting back one stringer at a time. Right now I'm working on the port side and the starboard side is still in. I've found I've gone over and measured there a few times already just to check a couple things I didn't really think to measure in the first place.

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Originally Posted by sybrmike

5. Will I need to fill/seal the old rubrail rivit & screw holes before rejoining the halves? Run a layer of glass tape on the edges?

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Salty covered this. You'll re-use those when you put it back together and cover it with the rubrail.

So, work's been a bear lately but making some progress on the boat. I've removed the complete interior, gas tank, rear ski locker, & some miscellaneous. Next is windshield, dash, & prep for pulling the engine.

I found some pretty good side-to-side and a little vertical movement in the rudder, so I'm sure it needs new packing, o-rings, or whatever seals it. I've tried removing the tiller arm, but to no avail (Okie was having problems here as well - thanks for the heads up).

First, I soaked everything in PB Blaster overnight. I blocked the rudder, removed the cotter pin, drove the tiller arm down, & removed the key. Backed the nut off to the end of the all thread & broke it loose with a few judicious whacks. Now the tiller arm is loose on the rudder shaft w/ 360 rotation & ~1/4" vertical movement, but I can't get it off (only to where the tops are about flush). Tapping on the all-thread will move it about 1/4" either direction before it starts to bind the arm to the rudder shaft. I can only get a few degrees of rotation of the all-thread by double-nutting.

Any suggestions? Know how the all-thread is holding it in? Does this take a puller? I just don't want to force it to the point buggering it up good.

Thanks

BTW Salty - you've got mail...

Dont you have to unbolt the rudder from the rudder arm??? Looking at your first pic, the round tip of the rudder should drop right out the bottom of the boat. Sorry but it went very smoothly for me, although getting it back in just the right position was a bit tough. Going in or out it definitly is easier with two people. Tapped it w/ a hammer.

I wish it were that simple. The nuts you see on either side of the tiller arm were just there when I took the pics (protecting the ends of the all-thread that passes through the tiller arm while I was "tapping" it back and forth).

Evidently my (and Okie's) tiller arm has a section of all-thread through the tiller arm that adds an interference fit to the rudder shaft. The tiller arm is not a split clamp on the rudder shaft - it's solid. The center section of the all-thread must have a flat ground into it so the rudder shaft can pass through when the flat is aligned. I can't drive it all the way through since the all-thread full diameter is too large on either end to pass by the rudder shaft, but I can't get it to rotate & align the flat properly to allow the shaft to pass. From the top view you can see where the outer edge of the all thead would intrude upon the hole in the tiller arm that the rudder passes through. AARGH!

Have you tried calling SC?

During those years SC used 2 different rudder mounting types, one had the grease zerks the other rope packing like on the drive shaft, I suspect they both would come out a little differently........

Looking at the shaft and arm key it looks like its in a bind. Also it looks like you have to remove the two nuts and the stud to remove the arm.

Well, I never could get that darn tiller arm all the way off the rudder shaft. Loose, spinning 360, & close to an inch vertical travel - but not off. SC & Viper had no further suggestions, so I finally cut it off.

Hard to tell from the hacked up pieces, but best I can figure is that the top of the rudder shaft had a slight ridge at the top that was keeping the tiller from sliding past. I couldn't see or feel it, but the packing nut also wouldn't come off the top until I ground the top of the shaft down a bit. There was not a "mating" groove in the shaft for the all-thread lock bolt.

So I suggest if you have this style tiller arm (Okie) - knock the tiller arm down to expose the top of the rudder shaft & file/sand to reduce the shaft O.D. at the top before sliding the tiller arm off. Let me know if this works.

Sure hope the updated profile & greased/sealed stuffing box are worth the extra Benjamins the new rudder cost...

nothing like sawing through an otherwise solid part. i had to cut my drive shaft once. it wouldn't come out of the coupler and i had no way to pull the engine. what's a few hundred bucks? [yikes]

Also, possible change of plans. I've removed the interior, windshield, gauges, wiring, cables, trim, hardware, etc. in prep for pulling the cap & tearing into the floor. The engine should be out next week. However, work's been taking all my time & I've found a fiberglass shop that seems pretty hungry. Sounds like he might be reasonable for stringer repair since I've already stripped her pretty good. Also, he's got a couple of A-frames that could pull the cap & empty trailers so I can have mine for repair.

Only kicker is he exclusively does the "open the top of the stringer, remove the rotted wood, pour in the filler, & reglass the stringer cap" routine. He uses his own "home brew" similar to SeaCast - combination of poly resin, chopped fiber, & some as-of-yet-unidentified secret sauce strengtheners. I saw some samples & the stuff is almost hard as rock, but you can screw into it (if you pilot hole first). Seems hell for stout, but probably add a few pounds over wood. Any thoughts or experience with SeaCast or similar?

Also, his floor technique is to cut pre-dried treated plywood, cover both sides in poly resin/cloth, then lay down several layers of wetted mat on top of the stringers. Then place the glassed ply on top of the stringers and weight the begeezus out of it (he has a full pallet of old batteries) while it cures -no fasteners.

Wadaya think? Go woodless if the price is right? Would this affect foam considerations - limber holes & foam blocks so the water can drain (it will eventually get back down there somehow) or seal it up good & don't worry about the extra weight since there's no wood to rot?