http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/s...9t%c3%a909.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/s...9t%c3%a910.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/s...9t%c3%a911.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/s...9t%c3%a912.JPG
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So when are you going to post some pics of your boat?
:cool:
Forget the boat, when are you going to post more pics of the belle in the black shirt on the right!?? Tres beau!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
LOL Titan ;)
Forget about the girl Haugy !
So, what to tell about this boat : It's just a monster. Tons of place, fun, sound etc.
One interresting thing : A girl friend of us joined for 1 day. She knew the Mastercraft X35, and she said that the Saltare is better ! Curious isn't it ? So we ask why ? She said the dog house looks like a table to take the apéritif !! Yes, we are alcoolic people :p
So, next step :
- Ordering a Grant Steering wheel, model 457-1
- Installing RGB Leds inside the boat + color controler, underwater blue Leds.
This is for next coming weeks
I will also seriously study a V8 diesel turbo, twin turbo or supercharged swap. From the 6.1L or 6.5L depending of what I'll find, with low compression pistons.
The 454 definatly drinks too much gas for a french usage. Gasoline there was 1.62€/L. We put 60L/day and stay 15 days ... I let you calculate.
Even a 350 will not be enough to make big economy.
Just look at this video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAcwqXNSp5c
Does anyone did it before arround ?
Mon dieu, tres impossible! Est-elle ta petite amie?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
:D :D Oh yeah, nice work on the boat too.
In the video that company says humvee based eng witch is a Gm 6.5l good news is your bell housing will bolt right on.
The flywheel may work to
Ok,
Then it will be a 6.5 diesel atmo (170hp) to begin, will see if it's enough to do wakeboarding. if not, I plan to put a supercharger on it. probably a G60 or a Eaton M62, as we can find here in France easyly those 2 kinds of blowers.
I will start to find the diesel this winter to get it run for next year.
I would think a diesel would work out ok.
I think the factory governor is set at 3500 or 4000 you will only loose around 500rpm off of the topend.
Should be easy enough to get the speed back with a higher pitch prop.
The good thing will be nearly impossible to over rev where ever the governor is set is where it will stop.
Hey guys,
Finally coming back from south of France where many taxi/tourism boats are fitted with the 6.2 or 6.5 Diesel. 1Km behind the boat, it still smell diesel. So I will think about a 5.7L gas engine.
For now I will order a Grant steering wheel, 72 jets for the carb (my spark plugs are dry back, so I run too rich) instead of the 74 ones.
I will also buy some leds for the inside and underwater.
I have 1 cup holder broken. It's black. I would like to change every of it by stainless steel, but I don't find on the net SS cup holder of 2-7/8". Anybody has a plan ?
The cupholders are pretty universal, I don't know what you have available over there for shipping though.
Can I get your old steering wheel if you are replacing it with a Grant? I'd love to hang a Supra steering wheel from a Saltare that resided in France in my shop. That would just be a cool artifact. I'd pay for shipping. :)
You can find a few different diameters in the stainless steel cupholders on the web. My original black plastic cupholders were all busted up & I wanted the larger ones in my Saltare so I could fit cans with coozies. There wasn't enough room in the molded plastic to accommodate the larger ones (plus the wood was rotten in the speaker portions & I was doing all new vinyl anyway), so I made all new speaker/cup pods out of treated plywood. I "recycled" my original molded plastic pods to another Saltare owner that was missing his completely. Since your vinyl is in such nice condition, I'd just keep looking for the smaller s/s inserts.
Wonder if you were to utilize a FAE or something like that if that might cut down on the diesel fume issue.
@haugy : No problem, I will ship you the steering wheel as soon as I replace it. Can you find for me for exemple ø72 jets for my carb, a used Holley or Edelbrock smaller carb ? This can be a good deal, as we don't have used such things here in France ...
@sybrmike : I also find on the net larger cups in SS, but not 2-7/8" SS. Only plastic
@Jetlink : what is FAE ?
I can get you Jets, but your symbol has me a bit off. Is that supposed to be a .72 or .072?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdc77
FAE = Fresh Air Exhaust, it's a pair of pipes (homemade, so you can easily make them) that divert the exhaust down into the water after coming out the back of the boat. This pumps them down instead of straight out unrestricted like normal. The water helps cut down on fumes by disapating the exhaust through water, and while under way makes the exhaust bubbles have to float up before they are exposed. Therefore by the time the bubbles surface you are long gone, and there is no exhaust pumping directly into the air like now.
It's not a bad idea for that diesel set up. Search FAE in here, it's been covered with pics.
I think this smaller one will fit?
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...3&merchID=4006
Mike, this cup seems to be what I need :) Thanks for the link !
haugy, It's righten on the jet "743", assuming it's a 74 jet. So I want to lean it, that's why I want to go to 72. Don't know if it's diameter in inch, mm or something else.
Ok I see the Fresh exhaust system. To me, it's a waste to quiet those engines, V8 are so rare in France, so when we have one, we want to ear it ;)
Anyway, 6.2 or 6.5 diesel are very rare here. A 5.7 gas seems to be the way to go for us.
On the PCM repair PDF, I notice that my carb LIST-80262 should have #722 jets. I have #743, That's why I run too rich. Assuming it's Holley 122-722 reference I need ?
What kind of carb are you running Holley? 4160? The more you can give me, the more I can help.
HOLLEY 4160 with LIST number 80262
Forget about the jets, I just placed an order at Jeg's for the Steering wheel + hub, jets (a box kit), spark plugs, distributor cap, oil filter. I should get it next week.
Hey guys,
My engine start to run very bad, instable idle, missing firing cylinder (1 or 2 missing) even at high RPM. It sounds to me a ignition Problem.
I read on the cadunkle missfiring post that it can come from almost every part of the ignition system. I will start with spark plugs, distributor cap and wires, and if it still missfire, I will change the rotor, coil, and probably the alternator.
Is anybody has a vacuum timing on the 454 ? On mine, no any hose, seems to be mecanicaly or electronicaly controled.
I ask, because I will think about the chinese ignition (I don't care about where it has been made, marine or not) http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.p...0164763&page=1
But it's vacuum timing thing.
I ask also because I really want this 454 to burn less fuel. I read about Q-jet carb better fuel economy than other 4 barrel carbs, like my 4160. And, finally, I hate the secondary part of the 4160 non tunable.
So I will also think about an used Q-jet (with vacuum hose for the ignition ?), but witch model will fit my intake manifold without mods or adaptation plate ?
Do not run a vacuum advance on a marine engine. The purpose of vacuum advance in a car is to add timing under light load cruise conditions to increase MPG. In a boat this is not applicable as it is always under the same type of heavy load, and there essentially is no light load cruise condition. Adding vacuum advance may result in detonation which will shatter rings, crack pistons, etc. You could always just cap it off, but if it's not marine it's not a sealed distributor and will rust the inside (advance and trigger mechanism) a lot faster than a sealed marine unit made of better materials than automotive.
While you're going through the ignition, make sure the mechanical advance is advancing smoothly. There are weights and springs under the points plate you may have to clean and lubricate the pivot points. If you still have points in the distributor clean and re-gap them. Not sure on the spec for point gap but somewhere around .016" - .018" would be typical.
As for other carbs... Personally I do not like Quadrajets. They are quite complex to rebuild and tune. They also do not make as much power as a Holley. Unless you really know carbs in and out, don't get a Quadrajet as it's be tedious to tune for your application. I would recommend a Holley 4150, as they have a metering block on the secondary side (can tune with jets instead of metering plate). A 750 CFM vacuum secondary would work well for your use and allow tuning of secondary jetting. Your fuel savings from running slightly leaner on the secondary side, assuming it will even take leaner secondary jetting without stumbling or surging, would likely never pay for the carb... So I would wait until your carb is worn out to replace it. Looking on Summit I don't see any 4150 marine carbs with vacuum secondaries... So in that case I would say a 750 CFM double pumper would be fine (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80537). Personally all my vehicles have big blocks and 750-850 CFM Holley double pumpers. Double pumper does not mean high fuel consumption unless you drive it that way (always into the secondaries) and on a mild engine you can probably run a 30cc accelerator pump on both sides.
Thanks cadunkle for all that precisions !
I will stay with my electronic ignition. I fixed it, 3 spark plug wire connectors were dead (rust inside, and bad connection to the top of spark plugs). It seems to not be the factory ignition system, as it's writen "Mercuriser" on it.
Here are pics :
Attachment 11139Attachment 11140
Then you can see my spark plugs are wet black. So too rich ?
Attachment 11141
I will start with 72 or 71 jets as soon as I receive it (72 says the manual).
Thanks for your lights on carbs.
What do you think about converting my 4160 into a 4150 ? with that part :
http://www.holley.com/34-6.asp
Also placed an order for leds : RGB leds with controler inside the boat, and replacement leds for gauges, white back light and front green/red light.
Will post photos of all that stuff.
Hey Guys,
I just started working on the RGB interior Leds. I bought a 50cm RGB SMD 5050 ribon Led ($15). I then cut it every 10cm, so I get a 3 led module. I then cut 4 pieces of black plastic (from a handle box), drill 3 holes ø7mm spaced of 1.5cm each, and glued Leds modules. I have a RGB 12v/12v controler with a remote ($15). I just need to cut 4G wire and weld connectors to it, and put my plastic pieces in place of the factory lights under cup holders. Here are pictures :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led01.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led02.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led03.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led04.JPG
Very interesting. I looking forward to seeing these in place and activated.
Ditto - curious how they will throw the light & look forward to seeing them in action. I really enjoy the RGB's I installed, but as expected I have a hard time finding enough excuses to be out at night to take advantage. What type of controller are you using? I used a cheap controller with remote (not for outdoor use), but it's tucked up under the helm so should stay relatively dry. If you haven't yet wired power to the controller, I'd suggest running the power through a dash switch & then to the controller. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my cheap controller "remembered" the last setting at power off, so turning them on and off just takes the flip of a switch without fumbling for a remote. The remote is only used to change modes (select color, flash, fade, beat to music, etc.).
Thanks guys for interrest, I appreciate ;)
Mike, I use this controller : http://www.ampoule-leds.fr/controleu...es-p-3022.html
Took few hours to weld very little connectors for led ribons :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led06.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led07.JPG
Hi guys,
Here are updates of the weekend.
New steering wheel in place. I almost had to destroy the factory one because the keyway was in a bad position. I had to drill a hole in the factory hub to acces it.
It looks great, but it's closer to the dash, I have to build a spacer to get 2-3 more centimeters.
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/IMG_1854.JPG
I also wired and fired the front RGB leds. Speed of the RGB controler fade is too fast IMO, but I can choose any color I want.
I will place 2 more under rear cup holders, a 3 leds module under the dash board, and maybe one in the little hatch behind the engine dog house. I fired it around 6 pm today, with daylight, it seems powerfull and shinny.
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/led08.JPG
Here is a video at daylight :
https://vimeo.com/50485057
Video with cover on the bow :
https://vimeo.com/50485058
Looking good. I don't know about that particular RGB controller you linked (and I can't read the French manual), but most have an adjustment for the speed of the fade in addition to color selection.
Thanks guys.
I'm proud of it. I swear I didn't drill any hole in my boat or kill any animal to do this :)
I did this video to show how many colours I can get, but definatly I use it with fixed colour (pink and purple are sexy colours on the boat), my boat is not a christmas tree :p
Can't wait to receive the stuff to make the underwater Led spot, I'm sur you will love it, how it's simple to make and how cheap it is ;)
Stay tuned
ngavdba my girlfriend wants you to invite us in Georgia ! what is there to visit anyway appart your boat ?
Hey guys. Here is one of the last update of the season, as the boat is now on the trailer, ready for winterizing.
So, as I post before, I find the new steering wheel too close to the dash. So I decided to built a freebie hub rizer. Here is how I proceed : I asked to my metal partner company to give me 20 pieces of 2mm thickness aluminium washer. As you can see, finition was average, because they use a punching machine.
I then glued all those washer together with cyanoacrylate glue.
Then I screwed it to get a solid piece and I started to hand file it. Then I polished it with the same tools I used for the TSB face and the seat feet.
Here are photos :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub01.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub02.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub03.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub04.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub05.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub06.JPG
Factory hub of the new steering wheel :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub07.JPG
I bought longer SS screws :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub08.JPG
That's badass. What's the finished product look like? How do you like the new wheel? Pictures?
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub09.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/hub10.JPG
Easy and cheap ;)
Maybe it's not the best way to rize a hub, but it's shinny and looks like factory
I failed my first attempt on the underwater led. It works but it's awful. So I have to work more on it.