Jet - What product are you talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by jet
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Jet - What product are you talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by jet
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Lol, old "in-gear" gets excited and forgets things in his old age!
Old age..your sittin on the couch resting your lil ankle and Im hittin a 30 mi marathon sat and just started training lastnight for it! lol. But yeah I forgot the link. :-p
http://www.nevrdull.com/
This never dull is amazing stuff, I used it on my CR 250 Aluminum frame, it made it look like a mirror! I will probably invest in another can to do some work on my rims of the boat trailor, they are Aluminum as well! Great Stuff!
Mike, I used stainless bolts on my pump too. That's what was in there when I took it apart. One of the holes was also helicoiled too so that should say something I guess. LOL! Looking good, keep-up the hard work.
I'll race ya! Just kiddin... My boat is in an entirely different state than yours. We might be up and running about the same time, but yours is definately gonna be much better.
I'm just shooting to get mine in the water and driving. The rest will have to wait until next season.
I don't know about better. Whichever one hits the water first is the best.
I've got grand plans & an aggressive schedule for a lake mechanical test by May. I'm afraid it that checks out - I may spend the rest of the summer sitting on milk crate seats, listening to a boombox, & sporting a low profile look sans windshield.
Engine's painted (no pics yet), but found 3 of the 6 bushings in the motor mounts were split. Disassembled, blasted (thankfully, think I'm done with blasting!), painted, & drying in the sun - waiting for new bushings.
Mike, at least yours has all new stringers and floor. Mine just has the two main ones where the engine mounts replaced, the rest is still crap. Plus your gel-coat prob looks much better.
This is what I was thinking for chairs:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/SKLZ-Sport...r-DLX/14895573
seriously... They are pretty damn comfy. Just screw-em into the old plywood. The umbrellas will be nice on hot or rainy days... Just kidding bout the umbrellas, but serious about the chairs. Should be more comfy than milk crates and you could take-em out for when you sit on the beach. Heheheh!
I know how you feel about the sandblasting. I'm about over it. I still need to do the "new" engine though, and the trans... *sigh* Oh well, I'm getting there.
I'm thinking end of April, beginning of May-ish for my first In-water test too.
Just got my registration done yesterday, my boat is "18ft 10in" cause 19ft and up was like twice as much. You guys wont tattle on me will ya?
Think I'm gonna copy and paste this on my thread cause it's a pretty good progress update...
Finished rebuilding the mounts & installed on the engine. Think I've finally got all the parts to start reassembling the engine this week.
Just a few touch ups left on the hull, but my arms are calling it quits on sanding/compounding/polishing - gonna hafta be good enough. Actually I think it turned out really nice & will take pics next time I pull it out of the garage.
New rudder & housing assembly is installed. Had to move all the holes 1/4" outward in the pattern (it was surplus NOS from now defunct Gekko), but coated all the openings with CPES, filled with 5200, and tightened the bolts real good. My Supra may develop an identity crisis - Gekko rudder, Moomba gauges, Mastercraft steering wheel, etc...
Finally finished trimming the floor panels for good carpet seams and pull rings, only to find the last of my HHR contact cement had set up. Hafta wait for more adhesive before I can finish carpeting.
A constructive weekend - that is until I started to fasten the top cap. Things must have shifted during the stringer/floor rebuild because now only about half the screw & rivet holes line up. I started running screws from the rear along both sides & could only go about up to the helm. Pulled all the screws, shifted the cap rearward a tad & now only the middle half of the holes line up & I'm not sure I'll be able to close the slightly larger gap at the transom. The cap still fits fairly tight & uniformly around the hull, but it's as if the holes magically shifted. Any of you "cap-off" resto boys run into this? Solutions? Also, how much of a gap (if any) did you have between the bottom edge of the rubrail and hull? I think I'm going to screw into holes that align in the middle section & then drill new holes in the hull towards the bow & stern. May just have a little more silicone under the transom rubrail.
Sounds like good progress! Hopefully you can get that cap fitment issue sorted. In any restoration I've found there are many little tedious roadblocks. I'd imagine it's a matter of your flooring might be slightly higher? I'm no export on boat restoration but I'd guess you just need to find out where it's hitting something and not letting the whole length drop into place, then grind for clearance if it's just a small amount.
How difficult and what was involved in the rudder swap? When I grab mine I can wiggle it around a bit side to side like the bushing is worn. I tightened the packing which didn't help, but it's not leaking. I've asked about this (this is my first inboard), and people say it's normal to have some play in the rudder, but I can't imagine they came from the factory like that. Doubt I'll bother with it this season, but it may be a project for next winter. Looks straightforward from the point of unbolt and grind out the old sealant, clean, bolt in replacement assembly with 5200?
sybr, I had a similar problem. I just drilled new holes for rivets and screws where needed and filled any big gaps with silicon. Also, the original base for the rub rail is kind of "L-shaped" so it covered the areas pretty good too. I'd find some sort of happy medium in you mind on where you want it to sit and go from there. I agree with your idea of letting it match up in the middle then adjust the front and rear. Is the front playpen and dash area setting down on the deck and getting good support when you do it that way?
Hey Mike,
I can't speak from actually having replaced the cap as of yet, but based on the swiss cheese that is the mounting holes between my top cap and hull I have opted to glass over theses sections from the rear side of the hull to allow me to drill new holes when the time comes to put the top cap back on.
Sound like you are getting close to having that boat of yours on the water soon enough.
see attached pic on what I am doing, laid the mat a bit wider than the hull and will buzz off with the air-saw when the time comes.
The cap is sitting down on the hull flush all the way around - the holes will line up vertically, just shifted fore & aft 1/8-1/4" in places depending on how I have it aligned? I was warned of this typical alignment issue before by a pro shop & think pretty good spatially in 3D, but still confused how the shoe box lid can fit tight, yet the holes don't match? Oh well, time for some new holes. To top it off, I buggered up a cosmetic repair I did to the nose while moving the cap around trying to get more holes to line up. Looks like the factory had a dry layup in that area. Guess when I re-fix the nose, I'll mix up some extra resin (epoxy this time) & milled fiber to fill the unused holes.
WSC - looks like that cap might of been off once before - that's alot of holes. Good idea of glassing in a backer. Unfortunately, I've already carpeted the hull sides (plus I really don't want to pull the cap again) and I should have plenty of meat left for fasteners. Plus I figure if after filling the old holes & seams with silicone/epoxy/5200 and attaching/sealing the rubrail - if water intrusion from behind the rubrail ever becomes an issue, I've got bigger problems on my hands.
Cadunkle - rudder swap was no biggie. Although it would have been easier if the bolt pattern on inboard rudders was universal. My original rudder was the old style with packing and had lots of play in it. I ended up cutting the rudder shaft to remove it since the shaft head was mushroomed & I couldn't get the tiller arm off. Turns out it wasn't a big loss because the shaft was severely worn anyway. Yeah, it's supposed to just be an unbolt, clean-up, and reinstall new type of job. I did have to jack one side of the boat up off the trailer during removal and replacement so that the rudder would clear the prop guard. The new one has 2 zerks and 3 o-rings, so no more packing.
I had just as many holes in my boat as WSC did. I'm assuming it had been from replacing the rubrail at some point. Now that I've replaced the rubrail myself, there's probably more negative space in the lip than positive space. The stainless rub rail has a LOT of screws!
Hey, Wotan - just consider them "lightening holes" so she'll get up on plane faster.
Cap is on - for good this time! Jockeyed the cap around for the best fit & was able to use about half of the original holes. It pulled in tight against the hull with only an 1/8" gap in a few places - small enough for the rub rail to cover except for the transom.
The transom seam had a pretty good gap from the factory (a good bit of silicone under the rubrail when I took her apart). It's a little tighter now, but I ran a bead of sealant in the gap full length across the transom in anticipation of tsunami sized stern rollers while surfing (o.k., maybe a little wishful thinking...). Also filled all the old joint & rubrail holes w/ 5200.
Mixed up a batch of poly resin (so the gelcoat will stick) and cut fibers to fill in the self inflicted bow wound. I'll wait until I finish grinding down the hull where I've got some shaft contact below the shaft log (just in case I go through the gel) before I sand and try & match gelcoat one more time.
Mike - I can see the results of your labor with refinishing the hull. It looks beautiful! Looking forward to seeing more pics...
I bet that feels good having the cap on knowing you're done with that part. Huge milestone!
Hey sybr. How did you make the little black squiggly lines in your bilge paint?? That looks nice. I was think of using the garage floor sprinkles. What do yall think about that??
First, Jet - bilge gel splatter done with an el cheapo Harbor Freight gravity feed gun with the atomizing holes blocked off and gel thickened with a little repair paste. The results aren't real consistent (even after first practicing on my floor which I later covered in carpet), but helps break up the accidental seafoam green bilge. Garage sprinkles should work fine if you're recoating since I would consider the bilge a "low traffic" area. I used them on a pool bath floor a few years back & they still look good.
Getting close to tackling wiring, but have a few questions. I have all the parts, but don't quite know the best way to hook it all up. On the supply side - I have two Optima blue tops with a Surepower 1314 isolator and a high output DB alternator. On the demand side - the standard boat electricals (guages, all led lighting, electronic ignition, etc.), plus two electric trim actuators (one 20 amp breaker), two Johnson ballast pumps (two 20 amp breakers), one 4 ch amp (20 amp fuse), and one 6 ch amp (2x30 amp fuses).
1. To confirm with the 1314, just connect pos of each battery to batt 1 and batt 2 terminals on the 1314 and jumper the neg of each battery together and ground to engine block?
2. Should I connect all power loads to their respective batteries at the 1314 or the the battery terminals themselves or the Optima's auxiliary posts?
3. Do I need to upgrade the wire gauge from the new alternator?
4. Do I need to run a wire from the alternator power directly to the 1314 (currently a single 10 ga from old alternator that splices into two 10 ga at the engine harness that then travel up to the helm?
5. Should I dedicate the second battery to stereo only (pretty much constant use at varying load) or tie in some of the other intermittent loads (ballast pumps, trim actuators, etc.)?
Thanks.
sybr, here's an explanation that might answer most of your questions.
I have two batteries. We'll call them primary and secondary. The primary battery is connected to the main power feed circuit breaker and chassis ground for the boat. I also have my ballast pump tied to that battery. My secondary battery is all stereo system. The main power to the motor circuit breaker is connected to the primary battery positive terminal. The ballast pump is piggy backed onto that. The main ground to the engine is tied to the primary battery negative terminal. The stereo distribution blocks are tied to the secondary battery positive and negative terminals. To wire in the 1314, I connected one side (main battery) to the primary battery and the other side to the secondary battery. The ground connection from the 1314 went to the primary battery. I connected a ground wire between the two battery negatives. That's the whole set up. This configuration favors the primary battery to be charged by the boat's electrical system and only connects the secondary battery if the primary is fully charged and a charge current is applied.
A couple notes:
1. Wire size from boat to primary battery is 2/0.
2. Wire size from distribution blocks to secondary battery is 2AWG.
3. Wire size of 1314 power connections is 4AWG. (Except it's small ground which is 14AWG, by mfg recommendation)
4. Wire size connecting two negatives on batteries together is 4AWG.
Another couple notes...
I would connect everything to the batteries directly for auxilary stuff on each battery. Use the auxilary terminals on the battery itself. The main boat operating system should connect from the helm back to its main circuit breaker.
I opted to only have the stereo on the second battery. The main reason for that was I had it totally isolated until this year. With the 1314 you could go either way, but it seems to me things like ballast pumps do just fine running off the main engine battery. I'd put the trim tabs on that main battery for sure since you would usually only use them while your underway and the engine is running.
Sybr - I just got cought up on this post and your boat is really looking fine. I too am ready to start wiring - maybe tonight. Anyways, I'll be referring to your progress and posting my progress on "86Sunsport-phase2" thread.
I have 2 batteries also - one starting and one deep cycle. I have them wired to a Perko switch so that there are two hot wires coming into the switch, one going out. With that set-up, do I need a battery isolator? I know that if I run the Perko switch on one battery or the other, then only that battery will get charged. But if I run the switch in the "both" position, do I need the isolator to be sure the weakest battery gets charged first?
Obviously from my questions, I'm no electrical expert - but if you have two different style/size batteries, they will probably charge differently with the Perko in the "both" position & not sure how that will affect battery life.
Not sure about all isolators, but the 1314 preferentially charges/maintains one (usually the starting) battery. It automatically connects both batteries only once the primary battery reaches a certain voltage threshold (13.2 volts I think) and will disconnect them if the primary drops below that voltage. So it always maintains the primary battery, not the one with the lowest charge.
Thanks Okie - that helps me plan things out a bit better. Think I'll keep all the the stereo stuff on the second battery.
Put some long hours in this weekend, but it paid off.
Finished repairing the bow ding and installed the rubrail. Still have to seal the bottom edge with silicone, but it turned out well and really starting to look like a boat again. Can also see my new LED bow light.
Received the two correct platform angle brackets last week (Jim @ Viper had originally sent 2 of the 3 with wrong angle, but shipped replacements quickly). Installed the new removable mounting brackets with aluminum backer plates I fabbed, angle brackets, and platform. Bad news - I didn't get the 3 mounting brackets aligned perfectly. Good news - the platform is still level and square, but now with a little bit of bind in the brackets - I don't have any slop or movement once I get the pins inserted.
Thanks to Matt K for the inspiration (or at least courage) to try splitting my new wakeplate when mounting the new actuators. Settled on parallel when fully down which gives me 1.75" up at the trailing edge when fully retracted. Made more backer plates for the top mounts for thru-bolting. I hope they work as well on the water as they look in my garage.
that dual plate action is really, really cool...i think you may have made me add yet another thing to my list!
Very cool...looking good? What is the reasoning behind splitting the plate? Fine adjustment side to side of wake effect or attitude of the boat?
Two reasons - one, to see what effect (if any) differential actuation will have on side-to-side list trim (read help sink one corner for surfing) and general wake shape and hull performance. These hulls are pretty flat across the stern and the wakeplate(s) are in the middle, so I don't expect much (Matt K kind of confirmed this), but it's worth a shot... Two - on the odd chance that the actuators unintentionally (or intentionally for above reason) deploy at different rates, to keep them from trying to rip things apart.
Two - on the odd chance that the actuators unintentionally (or intentionally for above reason) deploy at different rates, to keep them fm trying to rip things apart.[/QUOTE]
On my conventional set up (one wake plate in middle with to actuators), the piping-tubing is teed to balance the fluid pressure.
That's the beauty of hydraulic, but I went electric with no way to truly balance the load - but I knew I wanted to try differential actuation anyway.
Nice upgrade to yours btw. How much up/down travel do you have on your Bennets & how does the boat respond?
man, your tabs look nice! Mine's just a cut-up version of the stock one, with the hinges from the rear deck riveted in. I like the thru-bolted setup as well.
It looks like we have pretty similar travel now. My actuators have more throw, but due to the extended angle, the tabs don't move any farther than yours do.
Nice upgrade to yours btw. How much up/down travel do you have on your Bennets & how does the boat respond?[/QUOTE]
I haven't measured it yet. Only ran it once on water. When I lower it down all the way it really get crazy out of control. I raise it all the way up and it seem to put out a normal wake, but can't seem to tell yet if it can help the wake for wakeboarding. I know you can't put it down much. I need to work with it some more, maybe the actuators need to be mounted higher? I have to take some pictures of travel and see if it look normal to other people.
Why don't we have pics of the engine and side profile of that shiny boat yet???
I'm impressed man. I see me asking you a ton of questions in the future.
sybr has been very light with the pics all along the way...I think he used to be an automotive engineer in a former life. Maybe someone can swing by his place and get some "spy photos".
o.k. - I'm busted. Actually the only boat I own is an Old Town canoe & I'm just really good with Photoshop.
Actually, most work's been done in the garage & not much room or light for good pics. Plus I've been solo on most of this & picking up a camera's the last thing on my mind while resin's kicking or I'm done for the night & trying to get back to the family. I can try to take more along the way, but you'll ruin my big "ta da" finish. Sorry, guess I'm just not that photogenic.
Who said anything about mugshots of you, we were talking about pics of your boat...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by sybrmike
Slacker! Nothing but excuses. ;)
Sybr
your bow repair looks flawless, what did you use to blend the repair and how did you match the color so close. I have a similar repair on my new project and would love to hear what you used....It looks great!
You definitely don't want me muggin for the camera - even unfinished, the boat is much better looking.
Flawless? Hardly! - here's a few better pictures of my first (and worst) attempted batch of gelcoat matching that I used at the bow and two deep gouges on the rear corners. The first is the horizontal line at the corner (the big light spot is the flash reflection). The second is the bow point next to the rubrail. Too gray, with not enough brown.
The rubrail covered most of the bow repair & the others are pretty minor (to the point they don't show up too well on the camera - a little worse in person). Don't see either when in the boat. After sanding/compounding/polishing, the surface contours and finish look real good, just the color looks lighter. My other bad color match was after clearancing the hull at the shaft log exit - but no one will ever see that one. The 15-20 others are much better & you have to know where to look in the right light. In total, I used almost two of the big 4 oz Evercoat repair kits.
Oh, and Haugy - this one's for you. Hard to get much room for a good pic with a 24 footer in the garage, but you get the idea.
It's good from about 5' away. Any closer & you can still make out where the stripes were in the black (difference in surface height, not color) & a few places that weren't deep enough to bother fixing, but too deep to comfortably sand/polish out.
Maybe Okie can borrow OldMan's spy photo lens used in his thread, but you may not see much in a drive by - I'm keeping this one locked up in the SYBR Stealth Skunkworks. ;)
SOMEONE SAY SPY?? Im ready..sybr lookout! I busted Dustys New 2011 I mean 06 24' before it even hit water.:twisted: