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Okey, after some time googling on this I found that the timing shunt seem to be valid for Carb and EFI-engines but not for TBI engines, at least not with MEFI4 ECU.
I later read in my Indmar MEFI4 manual that the procedure was in fact different according to that manual. You insert a scan-tool or short between terminals A&B on the DTC-connection/diagnostic connection.
This puts the engine in service mode and it will automatically go to a fast idle at 1200 RPM and base timing. At this setting you set the base timing, then let it warm up and recheck timing as it might change.
Sounds right?
Thanks,
Mike
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That does sound correct, if you do have that ecu/efi version. It is difficult to tell which Indmar used for different engines during different production years.
I have the 2005 325 HP engine, and I had to buy a cheap gizmo that plugs into the diagnostic connector. It allows me to do the very basics, like set timing in service mode and read error codes with a flashing LED. Much cheaper than the full GM diagnostic tool, but very crude. If I remember (and it's been a while since I researched it), all my tool does is allow the "shunting" of a couple connections and it provides an LED to read.
If you get stuck, I Can dig up the details on the tool.
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Okey,
This would have been much more painless if I knew what I was doing before hand. =)
As I said before, I spent a day adjusting my valves, testing compression, doing leakdown-tests and so on. I then learned I should adjust according to the manual, run the engine, then check compression and hope that the lifters adjust as they should to the valve settings.
Next I spent a day building a timing shunt and trying to start the engine with it. Only to later find out that the Indmar Delco EST TBI engine does not use a timing shunt but rather just a short between terminals A&B.
I tested the short between A&B on friday evening and it worked excellent. Though as it was getting dark I quickly gave up for the night and figured I better adjust the timing when I see what I am doing.
Next day, I spent a couple of hours trying to get the engine to fire up again as the batteries gave their last starting it on friday. (Just my luck).
I finally got it fired up, had to move the timing just about 1-2 degrees from my initial setting, let it warm up, and timing hadn't changed.
I went a head with my winterization putting water/anti-freeze mix in the engine and so on.
I then went ahead and tested compression on my two trouble cylinders where no 6 was adjusted so that it read 70 psi before the engine had gotten warm. The lifters or something else, like carbon on the valves, obviously worked better as I now got my 160 PSI.
I didn't check compression on all cylinders as all of the others were fine before and shouldn't have gotten any worse, and I already had anti-freeze in the engine and I don't want to run it all out of there with the impeller.
So in the end, all seems well. Engine runs good, no water in cylinders after being ran, good compression... Only thing was the gas-chamber I built for my self with a tarp over the boat and running the engine... It got old quick to be standing around in there... =)
I also had a small exhaust leak between muffler and exhaust hoses. I might just need to get new hoses if it doesn't settle in once they get real hot.
Thanks for all your help guys!
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Glad to hear you're finally back up and running! I bet it'll make a huge difference next spring when it's running on all 8 cylinders...
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Was there water coming out where you think the leak is or just fumes? Pretty straight forward changing the rubber but hopefully not under the floor somewhere. Very happy for you everything else is finally running though. what a nightmare it has been though. Time for a cold beer and a cruise. cheers. Jason
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Hey,
The exhaust leak was mainly fumes, but also some dripping of water. It is the short (8 inch?) hose that connects the exhaust elbows/risers with the muffler that is leaking. Very accessible and visible.
I had to replace those hoses a few years back when I got sea weed into my oil cooler strainer and it clogged up. The engine over-heated, though, not that badly. It did run dry of cooling water but not long enough for the block itself to get really hot. The impeller and water pump itself finally got replaced and those hoses showed some wear from the heat so I replaced those too.
Engine was fine as far as I could tell though. The ECU put it in some protective mode otherwise I suspect something really bad would have happened.
Thanks!
Now I just need to wait for some better weather, it is freezing (below 0 celcius/32 farenheit) and I would guess the water is down to low 40ies.
May is a reasonable month for launching the boat and having going for a few sessions with cold water but nice enough weather and air temperature. =)
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Okey,
So revival of this old thread. We finally had some good weather coming our way with 63 F air temp and 52 F water temp so we got the boat in the ocean this weekend.
Everything seemed fine, she ran great and no obvious leaks or other problems. Had a 5 mile trip from the ramp to our dock + a decent wakeboard session.
Oil looks good, engine runs good though I thought I heard a ticking noise from the port side, probably from the valve train. Only noticed it while first idling at the ramp and then I think it went away.
If it keeps ticking/clattering should I check my valve adjustment once again?
Could have been the fuel pump making the noise, but it felt like it was something that I wasn't familiar with.
Thanks!
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set your valves while engine is running. It's the easiest way. Fuel pumps usually whine not click. At least if it's electric inline.
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Hi,
Thanks for the input, I was at the boat this weekend and started to adjusting my valve lash again, this time with engine running. I backed one off, approx 3/4 turn and got a loud Tick-Tick-Tick noise back. So I tightened it again, slowly, and it went away.
That lead me to the conclusion that this wasn't my issue. I went ahead and adjusted the valves and remounted the valve covers.
Then I found a new noise coming from that area and realised I still had a small exhaust leak on the port side, where I had the noise. I tightened the hose clamp a little and it went away. This might have been what I heard with the engine cover closed.
Then I realized I still had my clicking/ticking noise with the engine cover open and it is coming from the fuel injectors. After some google:ing I found that it is normal for the TBI fuel injectors to be loud. They seem to work perfectly.
I guess I am just more observant/worried than normal.
Engine seem to run great! =)
