A few more
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Looking good. When he says done this weekend, does that just mean with the stringer portion, or everything?
Im assuming done with everything. He was talking about laying the deck in on Sunday and then spraying the gelcoat later in the week. However he has been saying the same thing for the past month, so we will see. He is almost 2 months behind schedule, but I would rather it be done right and take longer than half assed and done quickly. We will see though. I forgot to mention that we are putting some foam back in the boat. We will fill the cavity between the outer stringers and hull with foam for floatation reasons.
Good looking progress, even if it is behind schedule (but aren't they always...). I know to foam or not to foam is a debatable & personal decision, but you might want to reconsider the partial foam job. If the purpose of the foam is for floatation, you need enough to float the boat - otherwise you'll only slightly slow down how fast she reaches the bottom if it ever came to that. I ran some calcs when digging the foam out of mine & it was marginal if even the full amount of factory foam job would float it, so it wasn't worth it to me to put it back in.
Personally, I hate foam trapped in sealed compartments on a wood stringer boat. Despite best efforts to seal and waterproof - water will make it down there, foam will get saturated, & rot will begin. Admittedly, that might take 5, 10, or 20+ years, but not worth it to me. Now, foam does have some good aspects - sound deadening properties & can add some additional structure (heck, I think it was the only thing holding mine together). But if you want it for floatation, just be sure to add enough to do you some good... Just my .02
To add to the foam discussion, I actually discussed this wtih Jim at Viper. He was designer for Supra and I feel he has a good basis for the knowledge of the designs. I asked about foam and he said it was purely for sound deadening and rigidity. Even with all compartments full it isn't enough to truly float the boat per coast guard standards. Whether fully foamed or no foam, he said the result would be the same. The stern would go down, boat would go vertical and it would all go under water, with it likely bobbing at the surface with just a foot or two of the bow sticking out of the water with an air bubble trapped in the bow holding it at the surface. Just some food for thought.
To each his own, but personally I'd never put foam back in a boat. I believe it's not even USCG required for a Saltare as it's over the length requirement. Foam under the floor means a wet boat that will never dry out. Eventually it'll become a problem.
Vests always within arms length if you're worried. Two uber bilge pumps would be a good idea too... Along with a valve on the raw water pickup if you haven't added one already.
I should get the boat back this weekend!!! Yay! Finally! I will run the wires and put in the motor as soon as I can. My question is, when I am installing the new motor into the fresh stringers is there a good process? I am thinking that I will just set the motor in the boat with the mounts attached to the engine and tranny and then get it roughly into place where I can mount the drive shaft to the back of the tranny. Then will pilot holes into the stringers and then 5200 the bolt threads and the hole.
Any idea what the gap should be between the driveshaft to the tailshaft of the tranny? I have a set of feeler gauges and I was thinking somewhere around .010 of a gap minimum.
I did mine just like that. I went ahead and put my exhaust flex pipes on the hanging motor (those things dont bend so it would be hard to put on later) then crawl under the boat and slide the prop shaft back and fourth and you will find wear marks on the shaft where it sat last time, line-up the wear marks with the shaft holder (only about 1" should stick out or show. Now drop engine in with mounts on and slide on the exhaust (spary parts with wd-40 so they will slide on better) before lowering all the way, then slide the engine and trans back till it comes in contact with the shaft. Now mark your holes with a sharpie and pull engine back out (I forgot to do this and had to pull out engine another time. quit laughing, it was a lot of work, lol) and drill a smaller hole size (i only went in 1" for a starter hole) that the bolt itself. Drop engine back in. Then drive the bolts back in 98% of the way, pull back out and fill hole 25% with 5200 and drive the bolt back in Do-not-over-tighten and start to strip the hole out. Better to be tight and not much pressure than to be loose from stripping the threads. Now!! There are long bolts for the engine and short ones for the trans be sure and watch out for that. Yes, I put all of my long engine bolts in the trans holes, lol. So 1-more trip to home depot for more engine bolts. BUT! All of my bolts are 5" bolts now, shes not wiggling loose later. lol. Boats make you feel so stupid sometimes. lol. Its all funny now. With the shaft, the exhaust and the shaft coupler all lined-up it makes it real easy to tell where it goes, so dont worry like I did for a week..like you are right now. lol Call me if you need any help man. take pics for your photo album later. Good luck!
Thanks Jet. Man, stress? LOL! I have been stressing over all the little things that are going to add up! The big parts are easy, its all the little tedious sh!t thats gonna kill me.
.003 is the allowed tolerance for shaft coupling to coupling adjust motor from there