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Thanks haugy, but you reply too quick ;) I'm limited to 4 pics per post, so I post it piece by piece.
The new steering wheel is very nice, giving this old boat a new look. It's same diameter, and with my riser, is at the perfect position to cruise like an american car, giving more space for legs etc.
Dude, you've got some mad fabricating skills. Very nice result.
Looks great
I guess we take for granted that here we could just order a polished aluminium spacer from one of ten different places and have it in a day or two.
Another sharp looking, well executed modification. Congratulations.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate, and enjoy posting on the US forum. Many people are here, answering, congratulating etc.
I have 5 times less succes on our french wakeboard forum.
I'm not born in the good country ;)
If you do make the trip across the pond. You will haft to make a stop up north as well.
Georgia is god awful hot in the summer you would need to go to Atlanta atleast one to see just how bad American traffic can be.
That's look very nice man, great result.
Soooooooooooooooooooo what are you going to do with the old one? :) I'd be glad to take it off your hands, and would even pay for the shipping, if I can figure out how.
@ ngavdba
I extended the wheel, because the distance between the captain seat full at rear position and the top of the wheel is too far from our arms. The factory direction has an angle of almost 35 - 40°. Means when I give distance the the dash, I also give distance from the floor, and so, place for legs.
Glad to read I'm welcome in your house :)
@ century
I would love to travel the US from side to side. I don't know from where to start. You have so many different paysages and interresting destination. It's a brainstorm.
@ haugy
I will take a photo of the factory wheel. It's almost completly destroyed as I wright before. I broke the hub in few places, drill it up of the keyway, the cap holder (round plastic sheet) is broken in 2 pieces. Wait for the photos and let me know ...
One more time, thank you guys for congrats and interrest :)
haugy,
Here are photos of the factory wheel :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/wheel1.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/wheel2.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/wheel3.JPG
The last run of the year. I ran it yesterday to get the engine at working temperature, then I disconnect home water and fill the engine with 22L of -20°C car antifreeze (it's already a mixture of water, alcool etc.). I don't know if it's the best way to winterize the engine and if 22 liters is enough, too much, or not. Maybe you have a tips ?
https://vimeo.com/52375019
What I observed, is that running on pressurised home water, there is just water at exhaust, but with antifreeze, there is white smoke. I first thaught about a cylinder head gasket, but, as it smoked from both exhausts, I thaught about it : no pressure (I simply pour antifreez in the trans heat exchanger), so a little amount of antifreeze in hot exhaust, maybe it gets very hot and vaporize ? What do you think about it ?
You are absolutely correct about the "white smoke" it is actually steam. I would not worry about this.
22liters is close to the right amount but I have to wonder if you made sure to pull the thermostat out first?
Also -- automotive antifreeze (at least here) is incredibly toxic and bad for the environment. You'll need to drain/capture it before you can run in the spring. RV antifreeze is much preferred, it's cheaper, will naturally decompose and even though I personally think it's immoral, you can dump allow it drain back into the ground/water if you need/want to.
Thanks for advises wotan. No didn't pull the thermostat out. I ran the engine till it reached working temp (~90°C), assuming the thermostat was opened enough to let antifreeze come inside the engine block.
I will drain the block/exhaust/water pump next season and get back antifreeze, as it is expensive and in fact toxic for environment.
I did a search on google with "RV antifreeze". I have to admit something : We don't have such thing in France ! How can we be so prehistorical people ?
Definitly not born in the good country ... :(
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the thermostat only opens for a brief period of time (unless you are recirculating the water.) There's no guarantee that it was open while you were sucking in the antifreeze. I always pull the thermostat before I flush with antifreeze -- just makes me know that the antifreeze is being pushed through and hopefully replacing the water that was in there. You could pull the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat, remove the drain plugs and then pour antifreeze into the thermostat housing until it was draining out the back. Would (probably) be cheaper/easier as long as your drain plugs aren't stuck.
Hi guys, It's been a while !
I just start working back on the boat for this season.
Here is how it looks after winter (we didn't cleaned it after the last season ...)
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/IMG_2129.JPG
and after acid cleaning :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/IMG_2130.JPG
So, as I promised, here is my home made underwater led spots.
I start with This 24 SMD 12v 5050 LED bulb :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed01.JPG
And broke it (carefully, as leds tend to unweld easyly ...) to keep the pcb board :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed02.JPG
Then, I bought table feet plastic sheet, lagrer than the pcb. I cut 3 pieces of plastic sheet and hot glued it to the board to keep it few millimeters from the bottom of the table sheet, and weld wires.
Then I pour inclusion epoxy resin in the sheet and waited 24h.
Here is the result :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed03.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed04.JPG
It's perfectly sealed from water.
I then put it in place of the flap connectors, with SS screws and silicon behind it :
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed05.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed06.JPG
It's powerful, but not as directive as a dedicated wated led. Weather here is awful, so I can't say if it works as good in water as on the trailer. Wait and see ;)
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed07.JPG
http://sdch2o.free.fr/perso/bateau/supra/marinLed08.JPG
Wow, that looks like a big clean up job! How did you go about that?
Once again, your fabricating skills are impressive. So how much do you have into these lights? I'm assuming you saved significantly over buying a pair.
Hi Titan.
I cleaned it with oxalic gel acid. It's long because you need to wait 20 min before cleaning with water.
My led are the cheapest way for underwater stuff.
Plastic sheet is 1.6$ each, led bulb is 8$ each and resin is 30$ for 1liter ( I can build many spot led with this quantity !)
We can say about 13$ each underwater spot led :)
So yes, I saved significantly $$$ :)
Thanks again for your feedback
As always - impressive work! Be sure to post some pictures of the lights in action once the weather improves.
Thank you Mike. The boat should be in water in 2 weeks, don't worry I will post pictures of the boat by night with LEDs.
Next step is home made tower spot led, keep watching ;)
Hey guys, I started the engine yesterday on the hose garden. Starts at first rotation, but it tends to overheat. Reading 180 190 degrees on the gauge. I just change the raw water impeller and gasket.
So I'm looking for a new thermostat now. It seems to be a rare part, isn't it ? Couldn't find one with same looking at skidim.
Does anyone know where to buy it or a replacement part ?
Did you install the raw water pump correctly? If installed backwards, the pump will attempt to flow water the opposite direction and can cause an overheat situation. Before spending any money, I'd make sure you installed the pump correctly.
Yes, I took photo before I remove it, it's mounted exactly the same way it was before.
On other thing, exhaust were cold after 30min running and hoses close to the thermostat housing were very hot.
I think about 3 things : to much rust in the engine, or thermostat, or engine water pump.
Any advise ?
The thermostat is a good guess, and worth replacing if you don't know its age. Skidim should have the right one, I bought mine there. I will agree that it's not always easy to find exactly what you need just by using their web site though. You should try sending them an email with your specs and I'm sure they'll have what you need.
agree with jetlink but it's probably the hoses that are connected backwards. did you remove both of the 2" hoses at the bottom? they have to go back on the same sides they were originally. i'd try swapping them real quick.
did you remove the wakeplate for the leds? have you taken her out without the plate yet? i'm curious to hear if it handled much differently that just having it set all the way up.
Thanks guys for advises, but really the pump is connected as it was last year ! At the beggining of the last season, the engine stays arround 160°, but at the end of the season, it tends to overheat at idle only, but when I give some gas arround 1200rpm, then no more overheat.
Yesterday when I start the engine, same phenomenon : Tends to overheat at idle, and colder over 1200rpm, but more than 160° yet. That's why I'm looking first for the thermostat issue.
Salty, the first time we tryed the boat, the wake plate was in place. The wake was splashing, small and looked like a stern drive's wake. Then I remove it, replace by an aluminium plate not longer than the boat and tryed it again. No possible comparison : the wake is no more splashing and definitly bigger with a nice shape (close the the Mastercraft X35, but smaller ...). As connectors where still in place, I remove it to put the led's wire through the holes.
I will send an email to skidim, there is a number on my thermostat, maybe it will help to find the good one. And yes, it looks old, so it's safer to change it :)
If your temp comes down with an increase in throttle, I wonder if the impeller itself is starting to fail due to being worn.
Jetlink, the impeller is brand new, I just change it. Do you mean the circulation pump ?
Are you running it out of the water and using a hose?
On the hose garden. So, cold water with pressure
I can never seem to get my thermostat reading to get even close let alone greater than 150-160 degrees Fahrenheit when I run on the hose. I guess the easy fix here is a new thermostat and go from there.
I'd try the thermostat like the others suggested. Also, were all of the blades of the old water pump impeller intact when you replaced it? Could it be impeller parts or other debris in the hoses?
Simple test:
Take the thermostat out. And put it all back together. It won't hurt the engine at all. In fact, seeing as we only drive these in warm weather you really don't need one. All it's doing is helping the engine maintain a constant temperature.
But to test if it's the thermostat or not, remove it. Open the housing, pull out the t-stat, put the housing back together. Then hook up your garden hose and start it up. If it runs perfectly cool, you know it's the t-stat.
Mike, the old impeller was in good shape, only the blades took the form of the pump, but no debris inside.
Haugy, that's exactly what I was thinking to do. Then if it's still hot, the only other thing I see is rust in the coolant system of the engine block (I had this problem on my 5.0L TBi 1989 Camaro, rear cylinders were not cooled because of this).
I'm trying to clean and save the old T-stat (it's in coca cola + cillit bang), as I find the replacement part on the net, the s-stat reference is R026003, it costs 134$ :eek:
Next news in two weeks, I'm going to hollydays with my GF in Italy.
Thanks to every one for your help :)
Yikes! That t-stat here in the US is about $6.
wotan, are you sure about that ? I didn't find this t-stat here in france, only on US website, cheapest is here :
https://www.marinepartssource.com/ne...at with Gasket
If you have another place to buy it, let me know ;)
I don't know if it's the same thermostat as mine, but I know mine was the $60 dollar-ish variety. I could change out the housing and start using the cheaper one, but that's not cheap either.
Isn't this a 454? Mine just uses a regular auto thermostat. Gates 33006S is the 160F version. http://www.amazon.com/Gates-33006S-T.../dp/B000Q0WZJS
I think this is the same part number for the Ford engines, too.
Mine is a 454, and I assume his is too. If I remember correctly it depends on who did the marinization and what year they did that work. They used different thermostat housing at different times and unfortunately mine is one that requires a non-automotive style thermostat.
don't know why but the 454 thermostat in mine is very hard to find online. it used to be part #0701 from Skidim but it's not showing on their site. they don't show any thermostat for PCM 454. i'd shoot them an email.
this is what mine looks like
http://www.go2marine.com/docs/2/1/2/5/212597F-p.jpg