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I'm finally out of my element...not really sure what to check. It appears the slots are where the water from the cooler rises outside of the center exhaust. If so, then that bad area of the gasket would allow the water from the slot to leak into the "dry" exhaust area of the manifold...and therebye into the lowest cylinders. So it seems to me you may have found the route the water took.
Hopefully someone that understands risers will chime in.
It rained off and on this weekend, but I got the broken bolt pulled out and the intake manifold properly torqued down. I replaced all of the lifters with brand new ones while I was at it.
I pulled the other riser off and the gasket looked fine. I replaced the riser gasket and bolts (found some nice stainless bolts with gasket on mr cool).
Just need to mount the exhaust, put the distributor in, and plug in all of the electrical goodies. I didn't get a chance to perform the wet test, but I want to warm the motor up and perform a dry test first.
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So I got everything put back together a few weeks back, but I've been struggling to get the motor to show any signs of life.
Primed the oil galleys with the priming tool and drill.
I have reset the timing, turned the motor to #1 TDC, lined up the white line on the distributor housing with the indent in the gear. Hooked up the coil and plug wires. I verified in getting spark to all 8 plugs with a plug tester.
The fuel rails have fuel (haven't checked the exact pressure value), the plugs have some gas on them when I pull them out.
I've primed the fuel pump about 4 times, I tried advancing the throttle to 25%.
The only thing I haven't checked is if my plugs themselves are sparking.
What else am I missing?
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Hi,
Really there are just a few thing that can be wrong when it doesnt start at all. Right?
Fuel, air, spark and compression. If you have all of those at least it should try to fire.
I had an issue a couple of years back. After a lot of testing it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump.
I am not 100% sure we use the same system, but if we do I have a pretty good understanding of what can be wrong. As I spent not hours but days and weeks figuring this out myself.
My issue was as easy as an corroded wire.
Since you have done some testing I would start with the easiest.
We know you have spark.
Air shouldn't be a problem.
So fuel.
Try pouring an ounce of fuel down the throat of the carburator (or wait, do you have TBI or MPI?, might be totally different if you have MPI? I'll assume you have TBI and otherwise someone else might find this useful in the future).
When I did this it fired right up.
This tells you either of two things are wrong. Your injectors aren't firing or your fuel pressure.
I disconnected one of the injectors and put a small LED there instead. The LED should be flashing as you turn the engine over.
If the LED isn't flashing you have a problem with some part of the electronics. There is a module on the distributor connected to the ECU that controls the injectors. That module could be broken, or bad connection.
Or the distributor isn't sending the correct signal, out of magnetization? Or something?
If it doesn't start when you pour a shot of fuel down the carb I would suspect compression.
If you have good compression, then the spark could be too weak or badly out of sync.
Like you put the distributor in backwards, it goes in one of two ways. 180 degrees. From what I have read.
PM me if you would like a very long trouble shooting guide for MEFI 4. Which is what I have at least, you might have a newer system.
Good luck!
Mike
make sure you press the neutral safety switch when you advance the throttle
are you sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out? When you set piston #1 to TDC, did you verify it was on TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, instead of the exhaust stroke? i've done this before, and ended up with the same results you have. its a very easy thing to overlook.
Both valves are in the up position. There is a mark on the balancer and the housing. I lined those up to ensure TDC. I lined up the indent and white line on the distributor and dropped the distributor in. The rotor is sitting just to the left of the number 8 on the distributor housing (roughly above the hole located there). This lines up to be just before the number 1 on the cap.
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What Moor said. You have to make sure that the intake valve was what closed before #1 came up on tdc and that it wasnt the exhaust closing coming up on tdc. In both cases both valves are closed and the balancer will show tdc.
I understand now. I'll check that next time I'm near the boat.
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Now that I think about it, I was basing it on when the valve closest to the stern (front of engine) would go up. With out checking any pictures, Im almost that is the exhaust valve. :)
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