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Okie, looks like the floor makes an effective one way check valve, lets water in but not out. Your making great progress - keep it up! Wish my work schedule would allow me to tackle this one myself, but no way I'd have her back on the water in time for summer (gonna be tight as it is). Frustrating cause I've got the tools & experience, but gotta be realistic...
Comp,
1. Market value is only determined when someone is willing to pay what another will sell for. Mine wasn't a basket case (most all the little pieces were still there), but looked pretty bad with the oxidized hull, rotted interior, & surface rust trailer. I've helped rebuild two previous inboards of the era & pretty much knew what I could be in for. Owner said previous lookers didn't even lowball his asking price. I did & he took it. Let's call it sub $2k. I still think I got a screaming deal & he was happy to get it out of his yard and out of a payment. If it's in decent shape, I'm sure you can do better. Plus we're getting into Spring which is a much better time to be selling. FWIW, I missed out on an 86 Skier in decent shape with new engine that wasn't running that went for $3k.
2. I think Supra switched to composite stringers in 92, but you'll still find wood in the interior through the 90's on most makes.
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Yeah, I guess I'm somewhat lucky in that I can usually squeeze in a couple hours most weeknights to continue making progress.
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Okie & Sybr...Thanks for your help, I'm diving all-in, starting a new thread on my restore...https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...9738#post29738
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My $.02 worth....
I have owned and currently have a 94 Pirata. Had an 89. All with 351W. Good for you having the BB. Plenty of power no question. This is the only concern about this boat. 3500lBS. needs the power of BB or GT40 351. You could put ton of money into fixing it and bazzilion hours away from your family. If the seats are crunchy toasted from sun you might want to have them redone. Much money. Everything else just cleanup and lube. Buy yourself a fair REAL buffer approx$75-. Buy compounds from NAPA 1-2-3-step You Know , heavy cut, polish then swirl remove. Google how to buff if you dont know. Boat will look pretty good when done. Use all summer as is. See if you like or love it. If you love it, then there is some merrit from a total restoration stand point. Not for resale purpose. It is a great family boat. We actually prefer the cuddy for my kids. It is a good looking boat under the Ox. 3500-$5000 worth. Sold my 89 in very good condition for $6500. Just remember, a boat is only worth what someone is willing to pay you for it. Book value is for the guy loaning you the money to buy it. Have fun this summer with it.
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Finally got to spend some "quality time" with my girl. With the weather warming up, figured it was time to go topless. Eight pulleys, two come-a-long winches, 4 landscape timbers, a handful of lag bolts, and a bunch of rope later - I have a nice fiberglass ornament hanging in the garage.
I ran rope from the two bow cleats to pulleys lagged into the rafters. I cut 2x4 pieces to fit into the intake vents and ran rope up to pulleys tied to landscape timbers spanning across the rafters. The rear cleats are also attached to pulleys tied to timbers on top of the rafters. I had to run the rope on the rear pulleys forward to another set of pulleys tied to the middle lift points and then back to the winches to get enough rope length to be able to lower the top cap to the floor. The winches are lagged through both 2x4's of the garage top plate framing - one winch tied to 3 pulleys on each side. 1 or 2 clicks per side at a time & she lifted off with no problems. Without the windsheild, there was just enough room with the top sucked up tight to the rafters to wheel the hull out from underneath - it was tight. Rube Goldberg would be proud.
Interesting note - the cap was secured to the hull with alternating rivets and s/s screws?
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I also got most of the foam removed rear of the helm. Damp, but not as wet as I expected. However by the next morning, about a half gallon of water had leached from the stringers on the driver's side. We'll see what happens on the port side after I get more foam out? Next is to remove the remaining carpet, floor, and foam from the front. No turning back now!
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You're making great progress. I hope all goes as planned. :D
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O.K., now I'm really confused (and amazed). As I continued to remove foam from around the the engine mounts, I discovered that MY ENGINE MOUNTS ARE HOLLOW! The front of the "bump out" is sealed and glassed as expected, but the rear (facing the transom) is open. 3-4" of foam were blocking the opening, but after I chisled it out I can see down the entire length with light coming through the engine mount holes - now I know where all that extra water came from.
Anyone ever seen this before? Musta been a Friday afternoon stringer job. I'm amazed the engine/tranny mount bolts held the torque of a 454 for 20 years without solid wood.
Carpet and floor (most of it was mulch) are out of the bow. Still working on the last of the foam (more standing water).
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I like how you took off the cap...looks good!
Mine was pretty solid at the engine bump, meaning there was actual wood there. The wood was pretty rotted, but it did pretty much fill the space. I wonder if yours rotted away or if it was never there?
