Like Jet said I would run at least a 1100, more is better.
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Like Jet said I would run at least a 1100, more is better.
My bilge pump is very low flow. It keeps up fine for just keeping whatever happens to get into the hull, out. But if you have an emergency you will wish you had a higher flow rate in there.
The question about finding a boat.... I found mine on Ebay. But I have been using this site for a while now
http://www.searchtempest.com/
You just punch in what your price range is, set the catagory to boats. And throw the keyword in. Then also tell it how far you are willing to drive from your zip code. It will find everything listed between you and there. It helps a ton. Thats where I found this boat that the OP ended up buying. I am not sure if he also found it himself, or just used the link I gave him.
Hope that helps you all.
Ill be switching to an auto bilge this spring as well. I dont sleep good when I know my boat takes on water and its in the lake over night.
so as i set here looking at my poor cold boat i cant help but feel sad. so to make me happy i wanna spend some money. ok so i dont wanna spend money but i dont want to play with my boat so that means money has to leave my wallet (or it will go bad right?) so guys what do i need to buy for the boat for a good tune up for spring and where do you find these goodies?
I learned the hard way that if you have time and your bit is sitting there for a bit you should do a compression test on the motor. Nothing worse thasn expecting your boat to run all summer long to find out you have a weak cyl, and then blow the head gasket.
After your sure your compression is good you will want to do all the fluids in the engine, new plugs, new wires, cap and coil.
Have a look at the harness connections. Sometimes moisture gets in there and corrodes things up. Actually unplug all the connections you see, have a look for rust or corrosion. if there is none, then get some petroleum jelly or electric grease and load those connections up before you put them back together. If there is corrosion then clean that all up with a small dremel tool, or some sand paper rolled up or other method. Once its clean then do the step above. You should do that for every connection you see.
Make sure your linkage to the carb moves freely and your steering turns without binding. Even if they do, you will want to consider lubing those up as well.
Thats all I can think of off the top of my head. You basically want to know exactly where the boat is at for maintenance. It will cost you a bit, but may as well do it now just to be sure.
I am sure others will chime in.
Check out skidim.com
Go ahead and replace your impeller and serpentine belt, cheap and both tend to go bad.
Any differance in marine rotors and caps compared to auto?
Yes. They are sealed up to prevent an errant spark. I know plenty of people that run automotive distributors. It's your call if it's worth the risk. For me, it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsandy
Auto is no prob..buy it down the street at half the price. Be sure and change over to the electronic ignition and get rid of the points. Best mod ever!!
were did you get your electronic ignition kit?
yes, deff agree on ditching the points if you can.
a word of caution though with using auto parts on a boat. Your insurance company may not cover you if they find non marine parts, and the coast gaurd is authorized to pull you off the lake and fine you as well.
That out of the way...... I went to the auto wrecker and grabbed a new electronic distributor and cap and coil from an old chev truck with the 350 in it. Threw that in my 305 that was in my nautique.
Your motor is probably ford based, so you just need to find out which vehicles had the same motor and throw it on in there. Its a pretty basic swap and for sure worth it if your getting rid of points.