1985 Supra Comp TS6M

Ultimately, if you're happy, you made the right choice. I contemplated doing something in the gray family when I did my carpet, but finally decided to go back original. I'm glad I did. I think it really looks good, and it's not nearly as hot as I expected in the sun.

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/fun/bday_lake_boat.jpg

Hey guys
I'm in the process of doing my 85 comps stringers and after reading multipal threads on here I think its gonna turn out pretty well. But I am doing mine cap on and am getting my supplies from us composites. But started questioning my self on the amount of materials I'll need. So any of y'all remember about how much glass and resin it too to do stringers and transom? I'm using 1708 and epoxy 635.
Thanks anything will help.

I don't remember specifically, but I think a general rule of thumb is to figure out the coverage needed, and then add a third to it. You'll almost always need more than you originally thought.

Also, it depends on which filler you're using to bulk up the epoxy for the fillets. Colloidal silica and microfibres for example use several times more resin than the low density fillers. Here's a quick reference from West System http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Personally I would want to bed the stringers with something in the middle of the chart like micro balloons.

Why would you be using 1708? While I've never worked with the stuff, I would say it's overkill, and it might be a bitch to drape over the stringers. The only way I'd be using that stuff for stringers would be if I were using a foam core for the stringers. Structurally, with the exception of the stringers that go under the motor, the stringers add stiffness to the hull by tying the floor to the hull and creating a box beam, and somewhat less so, the actual stiffness of the stringer. Really, coating the stringers with any glass would be overkill if it wasn't for stringer rot. At least when the wood rots there is still a bit of structure from the glass wrap. I would think a single layer of 8.7oz 12" tape would be plenty if you did a good job and made sure there was no where for the water to get in and rot the wood. It'd be a lot easier to work with, use up a lot less resin, and be cheaper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TitanTn

I don't remember specifically, but I think a general rule of thumb is to figure out the coverage needed, and then add a third to it. You'll almost always need more than you originally thought.

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Titan is right. You will be surprised how much the matte soaks up. Also be prepared to by extra silica powder for when you make the PB mix, it disappears quick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chris young

Also, it depends on which filler you're using to bulk up the epoxy for the fillets. Colloidal silica and microfibres for example use several times more resin than the low density fillers. Here's a quick reference from West System http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Personally I would want to bed the stringers with something in the middle of the chart like micro balloons.

Why would you be using 1708? While I've never worked with the stuff, I would say it's overkill, and it might be a bitch to drape over the stringers. The only way I'd be using that stuff for stringers would be if I were using a foam core for the stringers. Structurally, with the exception of the stringers that go under the motor, the stringers add stiffness to the hull by tying the floor to the hull and creating a box beam, and somewhat less so, the actual stiffness of the stringer. Really, coating the stringers with any glass would be overkill if it wasn't for stringer rot. At least when the wood rots there is still a bit of structure from the glass wrap. I would think a single layer of 8.7oz 12" tape would be plenty if you did a good job and made sure there was no where for the water to get in and rot the wood. It'd be a lot easier to work with, use up a lot less resin, and be cheaper.

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We used 1708 on the base of the stringers over the fillets and then CSM over the top. The 1708 (applied correctly) will add a whole lot of strength to the hull and also help spread out the load evenly.

I just figured I'd go with the 1708 so I know for a fact it will be strong enough. And so far it has been working pretty well. I rounded out the edges of the tops of the stringers and haven't had a problem with getting a contact yet. And redid the transom with the 1708 and it came out very solid as I was hoping with just 2 layers of the 1708 but may decide to add more throughout the build, due to the transom being so rotten and flexing bad before I started this. But do any of y'all have suggestions on whether I should run the out side stringers all the way to the transom like the engine stringers? I see how originally they did not connect to transom and had a good 3 inch gap in between transom and end of the stringer, but I kinda want to for a solid structure but after measuring the bolts for the swim platform the end up in the same spot as the stringer so I may have to leave a gap. Any suggestions on that? I'm sure it was prolly open for any extra water run off but am hoping I have none.
Thanks

I think you can leave it like the manufacturer did, but I'd also put some limber holes at the bottom of the main stringers so any misc moisture can get back to the bilge.

OK sounds good. I'll just have to make sure I fiberglass those holes real good! Did u have any big problems getting the engine mounts back to the same position. I've kinda been sceptical on how I would make sure there in the right place.
Thanks

Some progress guys, things are happening quick to get the boat ready for the Canada Day long weekend coming up! Carpet is in, side panels are secured to the floor. Items left to install:

- Custom Battery Box
- Foot Tray
- Drivers Seat
- Looker's Bench
- Rear Bench
- Stereo/Speakers
- Doghouse Base/Cover

Attachment 14583
Attachment 14584