Looks like it is coming along. I think I'd just make the mounts solid if it were me. Look at how Salty did it.
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Looks like it is coming along. I think I'd just make the mounts solid if it were me. Look at how Salty did it.
WWSD (What Would Salty Do)? Def going back with solid. Just thinking of leaving the fiberglass "skins" bonded in place on the hull edge and build-up under and around them with solid wood. The glass is pretty stiff in its own right and could serve as a permanent pattern so the holes all stay in original locations.
Oh, gotcha. That was a little bit of a stress point for me because I went totally off measurements. However, you have some wiggle room if you are off a bit when you put the engine back in. Is yours like Salty's where there are depressions right where the engine mounts?
Couldn't get the wood off of the engine mount glass skins, so had to rebuild from scratch. Lots of measurements - I hope it's right!
Mine didn't have indentations for the mounts. In fact, the front mounts were slightly elevated on plywood pads glassed in (they're not in place yet in the pics). Mounts are now solid instead of the original hollow (still can't believe that one!!!). Solid composite (oxymoron?) of 3/4 ply and lumber with a layer of glass between each piece. Still have to glass another layer of ply on the backside that runs along the length of the engine, add x-braces, tank support, etc. Hope to take advantage of the long weekend & be ready to glass the floor in next week.
Noticed something odd while lookiing at my "bent" strut. The upright is slightly bent, but looks like the bore runs fairly parallel to the hull centerline. However it looks like the shaft log is not set in square - angled so that the aft end is cocked to starboard. This makes the the strut look worse since the two bores don't line up well. Is the shaft log supposed to run parallel to the hull centerline, or is it offset to overcome torque steer or other reasons? It's in real solid & looks like the hull is molded that way where the shaft exits the bottom.
It looks like you're coming along nicely. IIRC, my bore was straight to the centerline. It may not matter that much as longas you start your alignment at the strut and work towards the engine.
I'm gonna have to break out the laser level to verify - but eyeballing it, it sure looks like the rear of the shaft log is angled to starboard (from the factory).
Hard to get a good pic, but from the transom it appears that the strut upright is slightly bent to starboard with the bore still relatively parallel to the keel. However, if I look through the strut bore, the shaft log looks outta whack. If I look from the inside of the boat through the shaft log, the two bores definitely are not concentric. It looks like there is enough clearance for the shaft to make a straight shot through both, but it won't be concentric in the shaft log.
Will this give me shaft seal problems (was gonna switch to dripless PSS mechanical seal)? Should I rip out the shaft log and align it with the keel centerline?. Or, should I straighten the strut and align it with the shaft log (will I just go around in circles if the thrust is not parallel with the keel?)
so im neew here but i have an 89 supra saltaire, and this weekend i broke the steering cable! so i was wondering if any one hase replaced one on this boat before and if they had any picture of how they did it, also why is there two cables on this thing?
thanks
Welcome aboard the board!
Sorry to hear about the broken steering cable:confused: Can't help with "replacement", but can tell you how I "removed" mine (just finished the floor, so "install" should be just be reversed soon.
Two cables? Typically these inboards only have one steering cable. It's the big black one in the below under dash pic. The two red ones are throttle and trans shifter. You'll have to pull the rear seats and rear center floor section (probably the gas tank as well, unless you've got long arms and can work by feel). Once you have access to the tiller arm, remove the cable end from the tiller. Next if it's not obvious, mark the location of the clamp block (it's attached to the bracket on the strut mount) on the support tube and then remove the support tube from the clamp block, then remove the support tube from the cable. Now move to the front under the dash. Unscrew the nut attaching the cable to the helm and turn the steering wheel to help feed the cable out of the helm. Be careful - the cable end should be covered in grease & could make a mess. Once both ends are free, check for any intermediate clamps that may be holding the cable in the bilge. You can now feed the front of the cable down into the bilge and remove the cable from the rear.
Measure the length of the cable tip to tip for the correct replacement length. It's a 3300 style - I'd go with the new TFXtreme. Installation should be reversed - I think? Make sure the front end of the cable is completely inserted into the helm and to secure the clamp block to the support tube in the previous marked location for a good starting point in alignment. Probably have to play around with the steering wheel and support tube to get things centered.
Hope this helps & good luck!
awsome thanks! yeah i just took a look at mine again and i have a large red one that comes out the bottom of the steering unit and goes down the center of the boat then i have a smaller gray one that comes out of the top of the unit then goes down the side of the boat, and thats the one that broke and as i turned the wheel it started too bundle up under the dash, if i can find my camera ill post some pictures.
Had a lull in the action for awhile (work, family, life, etc..), but hit another milestone this weekend - the trailer's gone! Of course, forgot to take pics of the stripped trailer - it was a sad sight & looked naked with no fenders, bunks, winch, lights, etc.
My truck's been banished to the driveway for awhile now that the top cap sits on a roller dolly in it's garage bay. I used the same method and winches from when I pulled the top cap. Hooked one winch to the inside of the bow eye bracket and the other to the transom lift ring that I had temporarily re-installed. Was concerned about lifting at the two ends without the top cap for support, but musta done something right with the new stringers/floor cause nothing sagged, moved, creaked, or cracked. Once the hull was clear by a few inches, I pulled the trailer out, & then nervously crawled under and fabbed a new roller cradle, & sat it back down. I can actually roll it around by myself thanks to 6 chinese Harbor Freight furniture dollies. The wife wouldn't let me take up her last remaining bay, so quickly hauled the trailer out to get powder coated. We'll have to talk once the trailer's back (new bunks, lights, brakes, etc.).