Building New Swim Platform

So last week, I brought the boat out of my garage.....I was going to do some maintenance/cleaning on it so thought it would be better in the driveway vs in the garage. So I get all the work done to it that I wanted done and start to back her back in. I have wheel blocks to hit, so I know roughly when to stop. I have a riding mower that sits behind the swim deck, well long story short while the boat was out in the driveway my daughter was riding her new bike in the garage and at some point decided to move the blocks. Now she did what I always tell her to do, she did put them back after she got done using them. The ONLY problem is they were back about 10inches deeper than original. So in other words....I hit my swim deck up against the steering column on my rider mower. There wasn't a ton of damage cause I didn't go to far, because I was thinking in my head that this seems deeper than I usually go so I stopped on my own. It cracked one board on the deck, not bad...so I gorilla glued it back and all is semi-tight. I have been wanting to put a new deck on it honestly anyway. There was a post a couple of months ago and for the life of me I can't remember his name or find the freakin post on here where he built a new one. I have an idea of how I am going to build it, but also was thinking of some ideas. What do you guys think the best wood for your buck? I am on a budget, so be delicate. I am not going to use TEAK, way to expensive, I know cedar is a good outside wood, but I don't know about the strength of it. I get some 1X6 cedar for around $0.99 linear foot. That sounds pretty good to me. I am thinking about having the same width that is currently there, but instead of having it a retangle shape, I might arch the back out a little. Let me know your thoughts....

a friend of mine suggested using exterior MDF board, you can paint it any color you want and use a translucent rubber epoxy and even if water gets at it it's suppose to be water resistant.

I thought about using poly board or that plastic type ducking, but apparently very heavy and also not all that stable. I believe it needs a "hoist" every 18inches for good support. I think my transom brackets are further apart. Thanks

I think it was Mr. Hunter who was building that platform...and I believe the material of choice was African Mahogany or something... I think he said $125 in materials.

I'm needing to do something myself. I bought the boat without a platform, and have been trying to figure-out a good solution. I was thinking-of building one out of teak, but as you said, teak is VERY expensive. I have access to a metal-fab shop, so I was thinking about making one out of aluminum or stainless.
Anyway, keep-us posted on what you decide with yours.
Show us some pics of the damage.
I might want to buy yours from you and fix-it if you're making a new one.

You are correct The teak was 4 times as much as the African mahogany . Do not use the soft Mahogany from the big box stores.
I got it from a specialty lumber supplier in GA. I was able to get 5 1/4 thickness with 3/4 under bracing it worked out perfect
super strong a very rich looking . I finished it with teak oil.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...latform011.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...latform024.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...latform040.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...tform052-1.jpg

Michael, If you dont mind me asking where did you buy it in Georgia? I can only find place down in South Georgia that is carrying it other that big chain places.

I bought the lumber from Suwanee Lumber in Suwanee GA . The recommended two kinds of wood both from Africa . I chose the Mahogany because it came in five quarter thickness . I heard that Atlanta hardwood is also good I have never been there. Give me a call I will be glad to help you with your project. 219-712-5060

This thread is pretty old, but did you rip the "traction" lines in with a table saw, also how did you use any glue? How is it holding up jsut being oiled?

Thanks
Derek

I would assume that is what he did as the top is made up of 4 pieces. They are likely 1/8" deep grooves or something. What do you mean by "how did you use any glue"? I'm assuming that he just edge glue the 4 pieces into a solid panel using waterproof glue like Titebond 3.

Wow that is pretty awesome. What do you think out sinking one of the foam pads in it. Wouldn't be that bad. Get a bowl cutting bit and make a template of the pad. Someone on here had one made with supra on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ptownkid

I would assume that is what he did as the top is made up of 4 pieces. They are likely 1/8" deep grooves or something. What do you mean by "how did you use any glue"? I'm assuming that he just edge glue the 4 pieces into a solid panel using waterproof glue like Titebond 3.

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I mistyped it, I was asking if he used any glue and what type? It does look like he ripped the lines in. I'm planning on giving this a shot to replace the very small factory swim deck on my older sunsport.

I wonder if he used Stainless screws?

Thanks

Your two top choices are Titebond 3 or Gorilla Glue (polyurethane glue) of course you could also use epoxy. Personally I like Titebond 3 because it's water clean up. Stainless screws would pretty much be a must.

You are correct since there were no slots in it I was afraid it would be slippery when wet. I cut the groves about 3/16'' deep With a table saw and rounded the edges with sand paper . They channel the water off the top like the tread on a tire. I doubled up all the edges with 3/4'' and added braces where the platform brackets mount. I use gorilla glue on all my marine projects. Its been almost 3 years since the build and I haven't had any complaints . Ill give the owner a call today and see how its holding up.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps65e88926.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbe9e26e6.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps654ce8cc.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3f382dd4.jpg

I attempted to use Gorilla glue on a few things, but i found the level of mess and cleanup to be a real deterrent. Then recently I found out that Titebond 3 is actually much stronger than i has assumed... Food for thought.

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/pdf/HowS...urGlue_FWW.pdf

However, this test does not take water or moisture into account but they both claim to be waterproof.

Wow that is an eye opener. I went with Gorilla because its Polyurethane. Its great around water but it is a PITA to work with .It gets all over and takes a long time to dry. I have tight bond and I have been using it in dry locations. I will contact the manufacture and see if they recommend it for wet conditions. I need a waterproof bond more than a super strong bond but if I can get both that's even better.

They make a weatherproof version that I use on all the outdoor furniture I build.

Yes...Titebond 3 is the waterproof version that I have been talking about (titebond 2 is weatherproof)

http://www.titebond.com/news_article...Big_Three.aspx

Being a guy who always has epoxy about, if it needs to be waterproof you can't go wrong there. PITA factor and cost are much higher though. Thanks for posting that, very informative.

I know...it's pretty surprising. I would have thought epoxy would be at the top. I'm quite pleased to now know about this.

There are a ton of different species of mahogany. I would use Merantti. It's a little harder than the normal African Mahogany. I put it in my 1200sf deck and it has held up well for the past 3 years. Do not use a film forming finish like poly or teak "finish". Use a pigmented penetrating oil. You want something that you can lay over the previous finish and not have to strip. I use ReddiSeal.