1985 Supra Comp TS6M

Hi All,

In the process of putting in new floors/foam and an engine replacement in my 85. My Comp does not have the original captains chair and it is getting tired (not very comfortable any more!)

Does anyone have leads on a seat that would fit my boat? Anyone know if the new models fit? ANyone have one for sale that is in good shape that doesnt have too many funky 80's color schemes!?

Also, what is the best option for carpet? I have used Home Depot's indoor/outdoor stuff before (can't beat the price) but everything else I find is at least $2.50 CAD/sq ft. Any other alternatives?

Any info is appreciated!

Also....here's a photo couple of photos of the motor out and the foam being ripped up.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps90746cbe.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps94ef585a.jpg

I'm sure there are a lot of seats that will fit, but I can't give any specific recommendations. Good luck on the project, it looks like you've got a good start. You mentioned new floors/foam, but didn't happen to say anything about the stringers. I assume you're replacing them too?

Keep us updated with photos.

The stringers for the most part are pretty solid. There is only a couple of spots that are soft (near transom and foot well near drivers seat). I am replacing the crossbraces on the stringers as they were bare wood and were soaked/rotten.

I was looking at your photos. How did you glass in the floors where it goes underneath the section of the deck that becomes the interior (where the speakers usually go)? That is my biggest area of concern as I want to have those tied in properly.

Also, how did you get to the transom like that, cut out the rear storage compartment?? How did you re-install? This would make working back there way easier!

He did what most people do.....a cap off restoration. If your going into and you know parts of your stringers are soft and you have the time you might as well do the whole thing, almost a waste not to at this point I would think. Once the cap is off the locker goes with it and gives you space to get to the transom and the bow sections. Good luck.

Actually, I didn't do a cap off. My stringers were solid except for under the engine where the PO had screwed brackets into the stringers to hold the fuel and water lines. Water wicked into the stringer there and rotted it under the engine. I had no water anywhere else and testing the stringers in other locations brought out dry wood.

So I repaired the stringers under the engine, replaced cross-members under the floor, and tabbed in a new deck. I added cross members under the dash and tabbed them between the stringers and the hull. I then matched up the deck and fiberglassed the new to the old. The end result is very strong and it's held up very well.

I'm not sure how your rear storage is built into the Comp, but in my Saltare, it simply can be unscrewed and lifted out. Every winter I've found some reason to tear it down to just the deck and work on something, and yes, it's very handy.

Although I didn't feel compelled to do the full, top-off restoration, I still encourage you to make sure you know the condition of your stringers. It's certainly better to fix all issues once than to go through similar processes twice.

Thanks Titan.

I did some investigation and for the most part the stringers are in good shape and I did have my marine mechanic do a second inspection on them.

The rear storage area in my comp is glassed in (looks like factory molds). I may have to cut the bottom section out create a bolted connection so that I can take it out in future as I have had the gas tank out before and it was near impossible to do it leaving the storage compartment in.

Still, how did you fiberglass your floor boards? Did you just put resin over top or did you use fiberglass mat? On my comp, the floor boards went underneath the section that was part of the deck and had a thin layer of glass which tied them into the hull.

Did you glass the floors into the hull? What was your method.

BTW...nice boat! Same color scheme as my Comp TS6M.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...y/P8060118.jpg

Nice photo!

You definitely don't use just resin. You need actual fiberglass too. I recommend using 1708 fiberglass for structural work like joining the deck together. Don't be scared to use plenty of resin as it will soak it up and needs to be fully saturated. It's not hard to use more fiberglass and resin than the factory did, and that's not a bad thing.

As far as attaching to the hull, I left a small tab of the original deck and fiberglassed back to that. I was able add more fiberglass to the hull joint than what the factory did, and I'm confident that it's stronger than it ever was.

Ok good to know. I had to rip the floor out right to the hull because it was all rotten through and it wouldn't of been a strong structure at all so know I have to figure out how to glass the floor boards back into the hull (original looked like just a single layer of matt/resin). This might be tricky!

I phoned Supra in Texas and they told me that the rear storage locker was bolt-in on certain models but for the Comp is was fiberglass construction. Looks like I am cutting it out!

Update....

Part of the stringers are coming out. Rotten through in a few sections so I will be cutting in new pieces. Will post pictures once the boat is in its net temporary housing.

You gotta keep feeding us photos...;)

Here's one just to keep you guys looking....

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...921/666441.jpg

Updates. More foam and floor coming out. Alost had to cut out the ski locker to get out the junk under the gas tank, will be building a new custom removable locker.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psc9ba2b0e.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps636eaa17.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps5103ac1f.jpg

Congrats on your progress. I just shake my head every time I see the quality of fiberglass work from the 80s.

It sure is bad! When I was cutting out the ski locker, it was almost paper thin.

I was going trough your build thread, how did the stainless plates work on the transom? I will be doing something along those lines for mine as it is pretty weak. By the way, what paint did you use down the centre section? I am going to steal that idea lol looks fantastic.

Another last question, where did you get your carpet? I'm trying to stick to a budget but I sure would like to put the nice plush stuff like the factory instead of the one depot indoor/outdoor carpet.

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Originally Posted by Supra_Comp

It sure is bad! When I was cutting out the ski locker, it was almost paper thin.

I was going trough your build thread, how did the stainless plates work on the transom? I will be doing something along those lines for mine as it is pretty weak. By the way, what paint did you use down the centre section? I am going to steal that idea lol looks fantastic.

Another last question, where did you get your carpet? I'm trying to stick to a budget but I sure would like to put the nice plush stuff like the factory instead of the one depot indoor/outdoor carpet.

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The stainless backing plates worked well. My platform is very stable, and I think reversing the direction of the bolts helped too. If I had to do it over again I'd make the plates much larger. It doesn't hurt to overbuild this area as it takes a lot of pressure and the factory didn't build a beefy transom.

I used a hardened enamel paint. The right thing to do is to used bilge kote http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=119 but I felt that my bilge would see MUCH less oil, water, etc than a bilge from a cruiser and the extra expense wasn't justified. So research and make your own decision.

I got my carpet from Ingles Carpet in Dalton, Ga, the proclaimed carpet capital of the world. The quality is excellent and the price was too. I'm local so I just picked it up, but there are several forum members that has purchased over the phone and the carpet was shipped. It's worth comparing against any local options you have, but I've been very pleased. I would definitely get some true marine carpet versus anything at the big box stores. The difference is worth it and the cost is minimal. I think I paid about $120 for all my carpet and glue. http://inglescarpetinc.com

Great info, thanks Titan.

So parts of my stringers are solid and others are rotten. Would it be best to cut out the bad sections and glass in new? Or just replace the whole stringer with fresh timber? Kind of a dumb question but its worth asking.

Also I assume that the pieces that crossed between stringers....it would be best to make those go right to the hull and glass them in for extra support? I think I saw Jet and Titan do it on their builds.

I really don't think you'll want too many sections graphed into each other. Small doses might be okay if you know you've removed all the rot and the remaining wood is 100% clean. If you have more than a small section that needs repairing, your best bet is to replace the whole stringer while you're in this deep. You don't want to be back in the same position in two years.

You don't really need to run the cross braces to the hull (in fact you definitely don't want them touching the hull). The biggest thing is to repair the rot around the area where they bisect the stringer and then fix it so water can't get in there again.

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Originally Posted by TitanTn

(in fact you definitely don't want them touching the hull).

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What is the best thing to put in between the hull and the stringer...just some PL premium adhesive?

My other thought is that I work in the sheet metal/hvac business and in between the duct flanges we use a a gasket material that comes in a roll. It bonds but does not cure (stays somewhat flexible) and is only about 1/8" thick and is waterproof. Would this be a possible solution for bedding before fiberglass is laid?

Also, what is the best option here. Epoxy resin and 1708 tape? I have see and read so many different options.

Oh boy, you've stirred up a can of worms now! What type of fiberglass and what type of resin...

I don't think you need to introduce a new material to the equation. The standard construction materials are more than adequate, especially if used properly. The wood should not touch the side of the hull and should be at least bedded with PL or peanut butter. I'd consider not bonding to the side of the hull regardless since the contact patch will be so small and it's not really necessary.

The general rule is that epoxy sticks to everything and poly sticks to poly. Your boat was built with poly, so you're fine to use that. Epoxy is more expensive, so if poly does the job, well then...

But some people will argue the better bonding strength of epoxy, and it's true, but it's usually connected with bonding epoxy to other types of surfaces. I'm not sure that anyone has been able to prove that an epoxy to poly bond is significantly better than a ploy to poly bond.

1708 is a structural glass. It's very strong, but is very hard to wrap around corners, angles, etc. My favorite combination is having both 1708 and chopped strand mat (CSM) on hand. Coupled with a clean bonding surface, and plenty of resin, CSM is also strong and shouldn't be viewed as completely inferior to 1708. They each have their place.

I hope that helps some. I know there is a lot of confusing information out there about fiberglass and resin.

Titan,

Great information there.

I will probably stick with the PL premium bedding method for the stringers to ensure they do not contact the hull, and the same for the floors. Since I did not do a top off restoration, it would be impossible to glass in the floors to the side of the hull so my thought is to put PL premium on the top of the boards and slide it under the lip of the interior wall and leave it off of the side of the hull. This way I am getting another form of adhesion as well as protecting any water from going over the edges of the floors and into the foam.

So I assume the best method would most likely be to use the 1708 on the sides of the stringers where it meets the hull and then use the CSM on top and lay it over the top of the stringer. I read on another forum it is best to use a router to round the top of the wood or use a table saw to cut a 45* chamfer on either side to allow the matte to fold over easier, truth or a waste of time?

What you describe is similar to how I installed my floor.

It is tough to wrap the CSM if you don't bevel the edges at all. But it doesn't need to be much, and you don't want to bevel it too significantly as it reduces the contact your floor has with the stringer. Some people have just fiberglassed up to the top edge and then come back with a strip on the top of the stringer. I'd suggest testing a piece of your stringer material before getting it in the boat and establish a process for getting it wrapped in glass that suits you.

For sure, there will be a lot of test fitting. I think I may create some compartments so that there is added structure and the stringers are tied together. I am still going to test the stringers to see what areas are bad and what has solid structure that I can work with.

I'm going to work on the boat tomorrow so I will post some updates then.

I'd recommend completely sealing the stringers, you don't want water touching the old or new wood and starting the rot cycle all over again - so I second Titan, bevel the top edges of the stringers so the glass will lay over. Lots of way to skin a cat (or stringer), but as an example: I used poly resin and chopped strand for a bedding compound (but have heard of PL used successfully), beveled the top edges, used roven woven and cloth to completely wrap the stringers to the floor. Then once floor panels were cut and glassed both sides, I laid down a strip of saturated CSM on top of the stringers, and placed the panels down. Then quickly predrilled and filled screw holes with resin before screwing the panel in place. Once all the floor panels were down I glassed the seams and recessed screw heads. Mine was a cap off, so can't speak to the floor hull joint. Good luck!

I guess this could be called progress....

I will post photos tomorrow but looks like this is going to get ugly. I did some testing on the stringers and also the engine cradle and looks like it all has to go....the only solid wood is stuff in the bow area.

What did I get myself into.....

We know the feeling, but hey, you're this far and while it's a little more work now, it'll be nice knowing that it's all done when you get it completed. Just take it a step at a time and it'll surprise you how fast it can go.

replacing larger sections will probably be easier than a bunch of patches. it will definitely be a higher quality job.

Thanks guys. I will definitely need some help along the way! I guess my biggest concern is when I do the engine cradle, I want to make sure I get it spot on to the original height so that the motor is the same. If I am off, I guess I can shim it if required.

I assume the engine cradle should be made of some stout lumber (2x4's, 2x6's) but for the stringers, has anybody used anything other than 3/4" ply? I was thinking of running 1x4's and shaving them to the shape of the hull instead. At least with the boat being a fairly flat hull the stringers are straight runs!

Photo evidence of the rot

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0c46ce7a.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps8f212124.jpg

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Originally Posted by Supra_Comp

Thanks guys. I will definitely need some help along the way! I guess my biggest concern is when I do the engine cradle, I want to make sure I get it spot on to the original height so that the motor is the same. If I am off, I guess I can shim it if required.

I assume the engine cradle should be made of some stout lumber (2x4's, 2x6's) but for the stringers, has anybody used anything other than 3/4" ply? I was thinking of running 1x4's and shaving them to the shape of the hull instead. At least with the boat being a fairly flat hull the stringers are straight runs!

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although you want to end up fairly close in the up/down range the engine mounts are fairly adjustable. the more important location to focus on is front/back. the mounts can't make up for being too far forward or too far back. but, pretty close is good enough. don't sweat getting everything exactly perfect. that's one of the nice things about rebuilding...with few straight lines or 90 degree corners you don't have to be perfectly accurate. it's a daunting project but it ain't rocket science.

as to the stringers, there's a line of thought that plywood is superior. the grain of the wood in the layers of plywood are alternated as the sheet is assembled. dimensional lumber obviously can't do that. once the stringers and bulkheads are assembled, positioned in the hull and glassed in with the floor on top...does it make a big difference? probably not.

PS...you gonna try to pull the cap? i can't imagine doing stringers with the dash, etc in the way. the mess made from grinding will be a nightmare to clean if you don't cover things very well.

I was thinking about pulling the cap but I don't think it is feasible for me. The stringers extending from the engine cradle become solid in the bow area (under neath passenger seat) so I am thinking that instead of cutting them out all of the way I will be building the new stringers up to the old and then joining them by a tabled splice joint, a ton of resin, and a ton of 1708 mat for structure. Basically the same build that Jet completed...https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...or-Resto/page5

http://autonopedia.org/crafts_and_te...int-splice.gif

I will be taping everything off so that no dust/debris gets into any dash equipment.

What size wood should be used for where the engine mounts? I was thinking something more substantial would be essential here.

rather than sandwich many layers of plywood, that's an area where i used lumber....4x4 pressure treated but very dry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Salty87

rather than sandwich many layers of plywood, that's an area where i used lumber....4x4 pressure treated but very dry.

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I agree. Plywood is fine for the stringers if that's what you want to do, but dimensional lumber is my preference for the engine cradle area. I used a collection of 2x6 and 2x4s trimmed to size I needed.

To your other concern about getting the cradle back to it's original dimensions, I understand your concern, but I agree with Salty that you need to try your best but sometimes close it good enough for this work. Take lots of pictures and measurements.

Close was more than good enough when this thing was built originally in the factory... I think all of us classic owners can attest to that statement.

For getting the engine area correct (well, mostly correct), I made cardboard templates that followed the contours across the engine mount blocks, verticals, and hull in three places - easier than measuring from no reference in open space. The drain hole and shaft log make good reference points for fore & aft measurements. As an alternate to dimensional lumber for the engine mounts, I used sandwiched layers of glass/ply/glass/ply/glass/etc.

Keep the comments/suggestions coming!

I will be taking the photos and measurements on Sunday...there will be some serious surgery happening! I think I like the idea of dimensional lumber or the engine cradle, it may add a bit of weight but seems like a better structure.

Did you guys coat the lumber in resin before laying fiberglass overtop?

Just ordered a fiberglass foot well (not my boat in the photo lol) and a couple of new decals for the interior to make it look new.

http://images55.fotki.com/v585/photo...4030959-vi.jpg
http://garzonstudio.com/i/capacities-decal-d.png Will show like the original 'Supra Sports' information in the owners manual.
http://garzonstudio.com/i/warning-decal-1.png

where did you find the fiberglass footwell, I have been looking all over

From the little I've read on wooden boat building, if you're going the dimensional lumber route, you might want to consider white oak for the engine cradle. I had to look it up, because I knew one type of oak was good the other not good. Turns out it's white oak that's the good stuff (much better rot resistance) and red oak should be avoided. The one caveat I found was that if the boat is exposed to salt water, it may rot if bonded with what the web site called "plastic resin glue". So that would be a consideration considering it'll be coated with polyester resin.

Just a thought.

Post pictures, these jobs are in many of our futures.

Good luck:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by $pringer415

where did you find the fiberglass footwell, I have been looking all over

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x2
Need one soon

x3
I need one as well!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kriley

x3
I need one as well!

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I have the part number from Supra in my office, I'll post it tomorrow. Just call up your local dealer and thy will get you one. It was about $115 CDN before shipping.

Sorry guys, no recent updates. The "honey-do" list has taken priority for the pat week!

EDIT: P/N for the foot well is #104720