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I am not getting good sub response at all from the factory sub/amp combo. I have a 2011 22ssv and I believe it a 10" woofer sealed box under the drivers helm and is a on a 700.5 kicker amp. Was hoping to swap the sub with a JL W3 an see how it sounds. I am not looking for crazy bass but the setup from the factory provides almost no bass at all. Any suggestions?
Randy,
First thing I would suggest, if it hasnt been already done, is investigate the amp settings. Swapping the sub could very well yield the same poor results if the amp settings are not ideal. 2nd, is the sub 2 single 4 ohm, resulting in a 210W rms output from the amp, or a DVC 4 ohm wired in parallel, resulting in the full 420W that the amp has available? 3rd, is the enclosure well constructed so its truly sealed and is it within the proper volume for that sub? And lastly, simply swapping the woofers out will probably not yield the desired results because the enclosure is unlikely correct for the W3. Thats probably stating the obvious, I just wanted to make sure you were not going to just swap the subs and expect an improvement.
Thanks for the reply!! I have tried to change the settings on the amp several times and have not been able to make it any better. The sub is a 10" Kicker and it is in the factory made box outfiring toward my feet. There is no port. I was wondering if that might be the problem??
As far as the way its hooked up, Im not sure but I think its just hooked up to channel 5 on the amp. It is still under warranty so I might just take it to the dealer.
I love my boat but I have had numerous stereo problems since day 1!!
Building a ported box can increase a subs output, but I need to run the specs on that one to see if its better suited one way or the other or if it falls middle of the road. Im betting is the kicker KM10. If so, its a 4 ohm SVC and is receiving 210. Now, thats perfect power that woofer, but 210W is not a lot for those wanting more bass output.
I would not take it to the dealer for amp tuning. I can help you with those settings. If you decide to go with another woofer and enclosure, the 12W3 2 ohm would be receiving 420W from the amp, so thats good. The Kicker L3124 is another one worth looking into. Also the Kicker CompD124 or CompS122. Plenty of good woofers that will work well with the available 420W, but it will really come down to the gross dimension of the enclosure that the boat will allow for. The best sub is the one done right. Another option would be to add a 2nd KM-10. This is a nice setup!
Amp setting for the sub chnl:
Gain - set about the 11 oclock postion
Bass-Boost - turn to 0
frequency in Hz - 100hz which I think is about the 3rd hash mark.
On the end of the amp where the speaker and sub wires connect, is there a phone cable looking plug plugged in? If so, that the sub level controller. is it mounted under the helm that you can see? If its plugged up, the subs volume will be controlled by it. If its turned down, the output will be low, so find it and turn it up some. One last thing would be the possible level adjustment of the RCA outputs feeding the sub chnl inputs. If they are adjustable in the head-units menu, make sure they are turned up. This is real common on the Clarion, but i think yours may have a kenwood. If there is a set of RCA cable plugged into the sub inputs, then change the position on the little push button that tells the amp where to get the sub signal from. With the button out, the sub chnl signal comes from the "Amp-1" RCA cables. See if this improves the output.
If this doesnt get the desired output, then it would be time to look at the OEM enclosure and or woofer and enclosure change. Hope this helps.
Thanks! I had the MB Quart head unit originally and the dealer swapped it out for clarion because of issues with the MB. I will check the settings on the head unit first. The only thing about replacing the sub is I have to check behind the enclosure for clearance because that is where the heater is located I believe
The Clarion Marine units typically have 3 RCA outputs: Front with gray leads, rear with black leads and non-fade with purple leads. The purple non-fade is adjustable, so if the sub is by chance receiving its signal from there, then it could be set to low. This will reduce the subs overall output.
some how ive done a lot in my life I guess. the kicker 700.5 is a great amp. im running the same amp with 2 12in low profile type s alpinesin a wet location. try the head unit settings first as suggested. if that dosnt work the jl is a good all around sub I have had best luck and have always suggested the alpine type r 10 aluminum cone ruber seal and great in moisture areas also a great all around sub period and not priced to high that kicker will make that sub move. it also dosnt take a lot of air I think 2 cubic feet I have put them in a lot of boats. also if im not mistaken the kicker has a port on it that looks like a phone jack if it dose their is a base knob that you can adjust the amp with that is not in the dials on the amp. most installers do not give you the knob to adjust the base so you don't blow the sub and they have to warranty it. ive done it and I know companys here do it
Randy,
It's tough to beat the extra deep cone architecture and stiffness-to-mass ratio of a JL Audio W3 sub. It will go really deep but also maintains great articulation, pitch accuracy and linearity. The other half of the bass equation is the enclosure. Every individual woofer is intended for an ideal resonant chamber. You won't get too far with just swapping the driver.
David
Earmark Marine
I just took the sub out and there is actually no box. It is just mounted to the divider piece under the helm. I did adjust the amp settings and it was a bit better but I would assume that the sub not being in an enclosure is the root of my problem. I guess I will start getting some quotes from people to build a box. I will also prob upgrade to the JL 12w3-2. I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for all the input!
I can tell you without a doubt that its a night and day difference with that sub in a 1c/ft enclosure. Now, granted its not the power handling of a W3, but its a very musical sub and deserves an enclosure.
Now for you, its sounds like you are looking for more output then a 210W sub, enclosure or not, will offer, so going with a 4 ohm DVC wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load is a good route. This will net your sub 420W rms.
Don't know if they'll quote it or not, but we've cut out that footwell before to add a WetSounds 12" XXX in an 09 24SSV Worlds Edition. You may see if you're installer would want to tackle that.
If you'd fill out your profile, we could see where you're from to maybe recommend an installer in your area.
I have a 2011 242 and built a ported box and mounted it right to the foot kick board.. I went to a shallow mount Rockford p3... I also added another 12 on the passenger side it kicks ass...
https://forum.supraboats.com/attachm...8&d=1348094823