livelys 86 supra bogging under load , need some advice

Hey guys ! So first time in the water yesterday and my 351 is bogging under load . It's like almost a air leak or loading fuel .

My questions : carb rebuild kit ? Fuel pump ? How is the fuel flow test measured ?

I always thought to check the fuel pump you pump in a bottle but how to measure it ? How long it takes to fill up ?
The carb hasn't been rebuilt since I had it but it ran fine last year so idk


Basically I just need some advice on diag and if anybody else has had the issues . It runs fine idling and can rev up with no hesitation just if you are underway and say just throttle to 2k rpm and maintain that speed it will bog out and almost die about 1 min later

I would say the place to start is fuel filters then fuel flow. Start with just making sure it has good strong jet of fuel flow from just before the carb. Also there is a fine mesh screen/filter there to check as well. Then on to float levels and other carb issues.

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Originally Posted by inair

I would say the place to start is fuel filters then fuel flow. Start with just making sure it has good strong jet of fuel flow from just before the carb. Also there is a fine mesh screen/filter there to check as well. Then on to float levels and other carb issues.

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Do u have any literature on carb adjustments ? Are they 4160 Holleys standard on these 351 PCM ?

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Originally Posted by lively

Do u have any literature on carb adjustments ? Are they 4160 Holleys standard on these 351 PCM ?

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lots of holley info on the net. their website isn't bad and even lots of stuff on youtube although not specifically marine most of it applies.

I'm not too sure if this would affect you (or is it effect - I always forget). My carb guy said my holley had a 2.5 power valve but he switched it out with a 6.5 to prevent bogging. He went into a very detailed and technical explaination about why it helps, but it was mostly over my head. Anyways, it might help looking into that..but i'm no expert...that's why i have a carb guy...

i know i should do some more research on this but what coil does a ballast resisted electronic ignition use ? i thought about just doing a tune up as well after i rebuild the carb and the auto coil's are much cheaper than marine . local oriellys has them ranging from 18.99-85.99 but witch one do i use or can i remove the resistor and use something newer to today's wiring ? .. problem is i cant diagnose this issue on fake lake with no load .. so i wanted to try all the above .. i ordered a 4160 non stick rebuild kit for my carb .. it looks pretty varnishy on the body of it ,

Well I rebuilt the carb , it was a little gummy .. Primary air bleeds clogged gaskets looked ok and found some of the throttle plate screws loose .

So I plan to by a new 8mm wires / copper core plugs instead of the auto that I have in there , also new fuel pump and pump to carb SS braided line . I have to say that these 4160 holley carbs "marine" allow no adjustment what so ever !! Stock 65 power valve , 28 squirter / 669 jets /

I want to just put a 4150 two metering blocks with mechanical secondaries for a true double pumper throat on this Windsor , the only thing that makes a marine carb "marine" is the fuel bowl vents and the non adjusting floats .

My winter project may be EFI or TBI in the future . That way I could just set the trim and hammer down !!

Any thoughts guys ? I like input without the crickets singing lol ! :o

Why is it that the "marine" carb can't be adjusted (unless you take the bowl off)? Was it just cheaper for the factory to put those in or is there a reason?

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Originally Posted by awesomesteven

Why is it that the "marine" carb can't be adjusted (unless you take the bowl off)? Was it just cheaper for the factory to put those in or is there a reason?

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well its used as a sealed part for the consumer not to adjust float levels on the water , thus spilling fuel into bilge . going BOOM !! but they are a peace of cake to rebuild and i dont really plan to use auto on my boat but like coils,wires ,senders i feel they are ok as long as you monitor them and keep the intake wiring clean.

here is one for ya !! . next time your on the water and you see a jet boat .. go look at his engine and the dual or single 4150 holley .. or auto hi flow fuel pump .. i have 4 blowers that work pretty well and when it comes to these carbs i really sometimes wish you could break it all down and adjust on the water .. only for the fact this is how you would test a inboard under load .

So rebuilt carb , resealed intake and went with HEI marine distributor and 50k coil with 8.8 wires . But I have to make some changes to fully set my advance timing . I am going to have a 1" aluminum spacer made for the thermostat housing to give me space for that big ass GM cap and coil . Right now it is touching the water neck when I try to advance the timing and won't let me move it any more but I know y'all like pictures so here are some of the activities http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps67cc7081.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...psbf22440e.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1d64038.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps007df08d.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68f015aa.jpg