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And how do you remove it? 12 pack of beer to the person who can help figure out how to get this sucker out so I can replace the cable and get back on the water. Bonus bragging points if you can name a boat manufacturer that used this type of control.
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I found this image for Correct Crafts (ignore the green).
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/greennob.jpg
This one from MasterCraft saying it's a Morse MV1
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...1&d=1353958462
So it's likely Supra used this other style as well.
can you take a side picture of it?
moving the lever to a certain position should line things up with the hole. try forward about half way (can't remember if neutral helps or not so give that a try if in gear doesn't do it). you may have to pull and slide the base to the stern a bit at the same time.
I've got the same one. Some wiggling, some jiggling and some futzing with the forward/reverse action should allow you to wiggle it free. It's a PITA.
He sent me a picture via text. The pictures I posted are exactly like it. They aren't like mine where the whole thing is square.Quote:
Originally Posted by jasun
Wotan did yours have that backing plate on it? He says he can hear fiberglass cracking when he really pries on it.
Yeah, if I really exert any more force on it, I'll probably be doing fiberglass repairs. I've tried every possible throttle position to remove this bugger! I'm now two solid days at this and this is all the progress I have.
have you tried finding a position while it's in gear and while the neutral pin is pulled (i'd bet in gear vs neutral will be the ticket)? i don't think you'd find one that's totally lined up with the hole. there will still be some finagling involved...pulling the rear of the unit away from the wall while sliding it to the stern.
once you get it...do your best to remember what the trick was since you're have to repeat it in reverse to reinstall.
if you have time to search the trick has been posted before but i can't remember who had it.
I had to service mine last summer by cleaning it and greasing it up. Mine has a set screw on the handle that allows you to remove the handle. Then the black face plate comes off, from there you can remove the mechanism.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetlink
Salty, I've tried every throttle position both in gear and neutral as much as possible. I've also searched the forums for the thread, found it and started there yesterday. The back of this morse control goes forward from the the control another 4 inches or so. I can't even get it close to flush to get it out and I can't get the linkage disconnected from the control so I can at least pull the cable and run a new one and fix the problem. It's frustrating because after two solid days of playing and working on this I'm no farther along than removing the three screws that hold the morse control to the fiberglass and am looking at spending at least $400 to have the dealer go gang busters on it this week.
In looking at the pics behind the fiberglass wall, there seems to be a piece of plywood between the cable mechanism and the fiberglass. Mine didn't have that. I know it's not much, but see if you can figure out the role of that plywood and how to get the mechanism detached from that.
The mechanism isn't attached to the plywood at all. The plywood is attached to the back of the fiberglass. If I could get the plywood out of there I might be able to snake this control out finally. But I'm betting that wood is glued to the fiberglass and not going to part easily.
Mine does have the control bracket the same way. In order to get mine out, I need to (while in neutral) push the lever to about 45degrees. Then I need to pull out on the back side of the control and slide it back. Once it gets into this position I think I need to pry the bottom end of it out first and then can wiggle the top control arm free.
The hole that mine is mounted in is a pretty awkward shape. I can't promise it wasn't broken at some point -- except that they didn't build your boat around the controls. They installed the controls at some point.
The trickiest part of the entire operation is to get backing nuts on the mounting bolts when it goes back in. You really need to use your bendy arms and lots of patience.
On the CorrectCraftFan forum in the reference section there is a copy of the owners/installation manual maybe that will help.
I can see the set screw on the first pic. Removing it is the first step into this riddle. Remember things are always built in this era to come apart without much prying or effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by mabbore
Attachment 12436Quote:
Originally Posted by DAFF
Removed set screw, got me to this point.
Michael, I'll check it out and thanks for digging.
Daff, I totally understand what you're saying but I have a sneaky suspicion that this isn't the original morse control to this boat. And looking at the opening that I have to try and get this out of leads me to believe that they had to pry it in there which is easier than having to pry it out.
I wonder if you were to remove the linkage from the opposite end (engine area) if this would create more space. You could pull the entire shifter out including the cables. I bet there is some bolts on the back side of the backing plate which hold on the black beauty cover which is acessable with a little more wiggle room..
I had both the transmission linkage and the throttle linkage removed as well as plenty of slack in the routing of the control cables. I'm truly and utterly stumped on this one because as I see it, I have everything loose and undone and it is still stubborn and not wanting to budge.
I don't know if it'll help you at all, but here's a pic of the back of my shifter after I pulled it out. I wonder if someone 5200'd yours in place?
http://unumemarketing.com/boat/back_shifter.jpg
I'm telling ya, WD-40, spray silicone, something to see if it helps loosen it enough to slide out. That thing is apparently stock since others here have one. So it's been over 20 years since it's been installed, it's not going to want to let go easily.
Somewhere the cables are binding or something is holding it in place. Removing the front cover is not going to get you any further. You can see a nylon nut on Titans back side pic which holds on the black cover. Perhaps you need more surface area in your pry tool to prevent cracking. Personally I think it comes down to pushing the cables towards the bow and prying the shifter out.
Titan when you removed yours was there much resistance??
I'v taking mine out a few times. It's always a tight squeeze. You probably have better luck if you remove a piece of plywood.
Jetlink- have you ever removed the controller on a Supra before? i'm just curious to see if there's something different about the controller you're working on. and, since nobody can tell...what kind of boat is this?
I thought its more your problem now Haugy...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by haugy
I've never removed this one before, I have removed a few other morse controllers before and none has ever put up this much of a fight. This particular morse control is still installed on my '86 comp. I ended up admitting defeat and dropped it off last night for service. Even they are having a difficult time getting it out as they have been working at it 3 hours now and it's still in the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
No, none at all. It's a somewhat tight squeeze, but mine came out in about 5 mins. There's definitely something different about Jetlink's and I'm betting on some 5200 being involved.Quote:
Originally Posted by DAFF
That's true. Get that fixed before I pick it up mkay? And should we tell everyone your Comp is now mine? Or is that a secret?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetlink
Yo Haugy, you goofed. This wasn't a PM. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by haugy
Awwww crap.
If you're still having trouble with this, here's a thread with lots of pics on a teardown and rebuild of an MV1.