Printable View
Well it started as a reseal clean and paint on the engine and trans. All went well rear main with sleeve front trans seal and pump gasket new oil drain gasket no more oil leaks. A little paint some new stickers and we are good to go?
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psce5a2fda.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6e57c18e.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc6e88d4d.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3041fdcd.jpg
I started looking at the bilge, carpet and floor . The floor and stringers were supposedly done 7 years ago but it didn't look right to me . I started stripping the carpet and with every inch it just got worse. The floor is a cobbled up array of pieces . They used 3/4 '' plywood it looks like they cut the floor about 4'' from the sides of the hull so they wouldn't have to glass the new floor to the sides . Instead they spliced the new floor to what was left on the sides . They didn't meet quite right but that's what carpet is for right? After removing some of the plywood it looks like they had problems with stringer height.
It looks like they used blocks of 2x4s and shims to try to level it out. All in all I think I am actually worse off then if it was just rot. That way I would have something original to go by. I don't know how far I will have to go to undo the hacked up repair much further then I wanted to.
I removed the carpet this is what I found
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psa7cb4dca.jpg
I went to remove the top cap apparently the noise was dinged they repaired it by glassing the top to the bottom so it had to be cut from the inside
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5193d61a.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8a69cb54.jpg
Here you can see how they spliced the main floor to the 4'' piece attached to the side hull.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps531c3ccf.jpg
Here you can see the 2x4s and shims used to prop up the 4'' side piece. The ones in the rear are starting to rot. Ill dig deeper tomorrow.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psf8a641fc.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps281979f3.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc2df8d35.jpg
Good luck with this Michael. Nice chatting with you yesterday, hope I was able to help start you out on the right path.
Same here jet I think I have a few more miles of rough road before I can get to the right path. I think I will go with deep blue carpet instead of the gray. There is so much gray it just gets washed out the blue will be a good contrast.
what a shame, I found a stringer hack job when I pulled up the floor on my comp, it wasn't that big of a deal to me since I was doing the stringers anyway but man it was the worst attempt at stringer repair I have ever seen.
Oh man. Yeah, that's gonna be fun.
This is why I ask so many people who say "stringers and floor have been done" to provide pictures. In my opinion, I don't care if they have or have not. If you can't document the build, or give me the name of the reputable builder so I can see their work, I'm not interested.
Good luck Micheal. I'd definitely go with blue carpet. The colored carpet always looked great on these boats.
Oh, and this is why I have yet to put a two-post in my shop. If I did, the projects I would get myself into would snowball out of control. :D But if we stay in this house any longer I think I'm gonna have to break down and join the insanity.
love the smell of saturated foam in the morning, lol- not!
maybe there's a small silver lining in that hatchet job...you have the factory floor height intact. that's all you really need. even the factory stringer design was junk since they notched into the main stringers and didn't allow drainage. this is a great opportunity to elevate this boat to the quality of your 'sport. no doubt it will be a solid rebuild once you're done.
I will say though the motor looks great. I may pull mine now that I have my interior out. Did you prep for the paint, or just spray over old? What paint did you use?
Also, where did you get some of those stickers and decals?
I just cleaned the engine removed the manifolds and gave it 2-3 coats of high temp silver. I never intended to make a show boat if not for the oil leaks I would not have done it. I have a friend on the CC forum that specializes in reproducing the OE stickers on old Correct Crafts. Since the engines are the same so are the stickers. I have an extra set of the PCM and Tune up specs found on the valve covers cost is 12.00 for both.
I leveled the the boat and blocked the trailer frame to prevent movement. I then shot a laser line across the sides and measured down to where the upper hull sides attach to the floor. You can see the horizontal lines and measurements in the pics. That gives me a reference to the exact floor height.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4c4a9373.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps930336d5.jpg
I continued to remove the floor and found they used 1x4 pine blocks stacked up and used the foam to hold them in. This is the only structure under the floor next to the sides . They were not treated with anything and they are starting to rot. If anyone has any detailed pics of the stringers on a comp especially at the sides please post or email them to me it would help a lot to know how its supposed to be,
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps18f051ce.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1969a454.jpg
I spent the day removing all of the foam ,the exhaust pipes and the decking under the bow. It looks like only the mains were replaced everything under the bow is original and rotten that explained why the pylon was getting loose . I ordered a new drivers floor pan from
Atlanta Marine . The original floor is 5/8'' plywood. I must confess I am totally confused with the floor height . It looks to me that one secondary stringer is low and the other three are high. This enplanes why the floor was kinda dome shaped. I decided to put the top cap back on and carefully measure the location of the floor at the inner side walls. That should give me a side to side floor height to work with.Then the stringer height can be set to the underside of the floor. If all goes well I should end up with a flat deck that matches up with the sidewalls.
Good luck with it. I enjoy reading stringer repair and restoration threads. I know from other projects that a hackjob repair from a PO can sometimes be worse than just dealing with a rusted/rotted out original. At least you'd have an easier template to work with had it not been done shoddily. What are your plans for this boat? Were you hoping to clean it up and flip it or adding to the fleet?
I think I will keep it for now the boat is in pretty good overall condition. I have all the mechanical systems done and my wife will do some repairs on the interior vinyl and once I get the floor sorted out it should be good to go. I don't want to build a show boat just a strong dependable skier. At this point I think I will sister to the secondary's and rebuild the structure at the sides the mains although sloppily done look solid and the mounts line up fine. I don't know what they were thinking when they tried to attach 3/4'' plywood to the 5/8 that was attached to the sidewalls. I thought they screwed up the stringer height as it corresponds to the floor height at the sidewalls. They cut the original floor about 4 '' from the sides and butted up the new floor to it . So I still have the exact location for the original floor on the sides . I removed the fiberglass from the top of the main stringers and found they only sistered new stringers to the originals. Here is my problem my floor is lower at the sides then at the center where it attaches to the main stringer. I was going to make the floor straight from side wall to side wall but I will have to cut the stringer height down about 3/4'' to do that. It looks like the original floor tapered down from the engine compartment to the sidewall. I am thinking to duplicate the way it was when it left the factory. If change it I may end up with problems when I put it back together.
Good luck with this Michael. I know it'll be quality once you're done.
I think you're right about the floors sloping away from the engine. My Saltare does it a little, but I feel like I've noticed it more on the smaller boats. I don't know, that might be imagined. The bottom line is that if the cap will still fit, there's at least a dozen different ways to construct the stringers and none of them are wrong with the exception of how the factory did it.
Now, about the stickers. I do recognize the one over your electronics cover as from the Southern Supra Reunion (Haugy - you'll have to come down to get yours this year!). I actually need some of those Pleasure Craft stickers for the valve covers. Do you have a file for those?
Snowed in for three days so the work continues I decided to rip out the poorly done secondary's and make gussets perpendicular to the side wall every 15'' . My biggest problem now is I have no material its supposed to be warmer today I'm pretty much stuck until the trucks start running.
You are absolutely right about the reunion sticker I think its a nice add on.
Let me know if you need any help Michael!
Looking good so far! Looks like they used about. 100 cans of Great Stuff! Foam lol
Did you decide to remove the main stringers?
I think you better get opening all the stringers up and start fresh !! By the look of it they were sistered up with new wood next to the old tired ones. You can also see the notches from the old cross members which ran at a 90° to the stringers. Hack job supreme....
Should of read more of your thoughts.....
I would rip it all out and start fresh knowing of where the outside height of the floor should be and width of the engine area stringers it is all basic math and not hard to reconstruct better than factory. When building a house it is often more time consuming to try to use old structural members and make things work than just starting from scratch. I think this rebuild will fall in this category. Besides your build quality is too high not to do it !!
I think you are right . Its every owners dream to get away cheap . Every thing I take apart leads to another problem area. I don't see any way to short cut this job especially with you guys watching . Its spring here now and I am so busy I don't see any updates for a few weeks. At least I will have the money to but the materials.
I had a little time to put into the comp this week. It is definitely a full gut job . Even though the motor mount bolts were tight and came out clean it was rot city under the fiberglass.
This is the way it looked before
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfde9b584.jpg
This is what I found under the glass where the mounts attach.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psd531bbfa.jpg
A close up .
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps26914cc2.jpg
This is why you don't attach new wood to old rot just like in the apple bin one starts to rot and it spreads to the others.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps165e0077.jpg
Eeeeewwwww!
So the PO just added a fresh board when the frame rotted? Classic!
Yes the fact they used construction grade pine didn't help. The lesson learned is even if it looks sounds and acts good you don't know until you take it apart. It looks like the factory never bedded in the stringers? I have been cutting the glass at the top and then cutting one side at the bottom the glass peels off and the stringer comes out in one piece.
This is one of the secondary stringers I'm using as a pattern for the new one.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb0ba7daf.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...pseeba1f96.jpg
What wood material are you going back with?
2x6 and 2x8 Fur coated with CPES [ Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer]and then epoxied in. 5/8 Marine plywood for the deck.
Very nice. I used that CPES stuff when I rebuilt mine. I guess it works good - never really tested it. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Any chance this is what you'll bring to the reunion?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I talked to the owner of Rot Doctor he said you can reuse rotten wood by coating it with CPES . It will penetrate and bond with the rot then harden it is supposed to be stronger than the original wood. I am hoping to complete by July but its not looking good right now .I don't want to rush it and with 4 boats it dosnt have to be done anytime soon.
The work continues I finally got the main stringer out it looked like they poured about a qt of glass under where the engine mounts . If they would have sanded the hull and used a better grade of wood I would be in real trouble getting it out.
When they sistered the new wood to the old one it wasn't high enough so they just raised it to be even with the old rotten stringer.
There was about an inch gap at the hull.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps16e34e8e.jpg
When I separated the stringers the new one was well on its way gone. They never treated the new wood just glassed over the top of it.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb3ac5482.jpg
Now that the main is out I will build the new one in one piece and then add on to form the engine mount area.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps298c128d.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb35b61cb.jpg
It's looking so much better already! Truly enjoying the pics as you go.
The wife started the seat vinyl, again what started as a patch and repair has turned into a full restoration. I decided to get rid of the gay pride strips and go with a late 80s look. Lite gray vinyl navy blue piping navy blue carpet. I hope she doesn't get done before I finish the floor?
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse2eb5a59.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps40b7ec93.jpg
HUGE improvement. Looks nice! I know it's a stretch, but I'm hoping you get it done in time for the Southern Supra Reunion.
Yeah, good choice on the blue/gray.
I'm so on the fence on doing this with my saltare. I suck terribly at wood work. Hell I'm trying to just make sure I don't mess up the doghouse base. Something I know most of you could knock out in 20 minutes. :D
I would love to see the Comp, but I like the Sunny more. I wanna see that at the reunion.
The dog house base is no small job I just finished one on a newer Supra all four corners were rounded all the wood had to be back cut and bent to match the cover.
I like the colors Mike. Hope you get it done for the reunion so I can finally ski behind the legendary Comp. Besides, your Sunsport is so beautiful it will just make me feel wretched if I have to park next to it ;)
I do believe a comp will be making the reunion. So bring your ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by inair
This is almost a verified fact. Laura just said, "I really think we should trailer our boat all the way there and back." I'm going to hold her to it, and later regret the gas bill but know that it will all be worth it in the end. I'll have my skis as well. Oh yeah, I have a 40 foot rule for judging my boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by haugy
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_3825.jpg
There's no boat judging. Only boat enjoyment.
I have only sewn a little vinyl here and there. What kind of sewing mahcine did your wife use? anything commercial rated of just sQuote:
Originally Posted by michael hunter
She works part time for a marine cover and interior shop . She has a Consew industrial machine with walking foot. I also built her a 17 foot long work table in the basement.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1883af80.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse52a91dd.jpg