2014 SC350 Stereo w/Pics

I was finally able to get some pics of the install that the guys at Lakeside Audio in Conroe, Tx did on my SC. If any of you are looking for a shop to take care of your boat, you need to go check these guys out! Their shop is awesome and have excellent customer service. Anyway, her is what they did: 4 Wet Sounds Rev10's w/ swivel mounts (in the factory locations) powered by a JL Audio MHD 600/4. 1 (for now) JL 12w6v2 powered by a JL MHD 750/1. All in boat speakers are JL M650's powered by a JL MHD 900/5. The sub channel on the 900/5 will eventually power a second 12w6. To finish the look of the sub under the helm, they designed a custom kick panel using all the save vinyl materials that are found in the boat. We kept the stock head unit and added a Wet Sounds 420SQ. Now I just need to get all the LEDs going in the Revs and vents on the boat.

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That looks awesome!! Love the sub install and the boat looks great.

Hopefully that JL 600/4 stays a "for now"? I believe that is 150 watts to each speaker? If so, that is big time under powered. I'm pushing 400 watts to each 10. Not meaning to come across rude, just mentioning there is A LOT left on the table for the speakers purchased.

Yeah, I'll probably end up adding a second one and doing 1 600/4 per side, although it's still damn loud. Unfortunately, the don't make a more powerful full range stereo amp for that with in the MHD line up. We thought about using a 750/1 but they were very against it due the frequency range.

If you do some web searching, I think you'll find the 750/1 is a very strong recommendation for a pair of 10's. (so 2 750.1's in your situation) Shouldn't be a concern with the frequency as tower speakers should be run on high-pass, right? That's how I've always seen them done and how I'm currently running them.

Relevant link ....

http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=802293

Tim = Wetsounds; David Analog is one of the more knowledgeable audio experts I've seen visit the forums. (earmark marine) He specifically addresses the 600/4 vs 750/1. There is also a thread somewhere over there addressing the full range vs high-pass but I wasn't able to quickly locate it.

Again, not knocking anything because the install looks amazing. Just wanting you to get the best of the 10's because they are a beast and you spent some coin. Those speakers will want to see 300-400 watts before they come alive.

First, let me say that those guys did an outstanding job. Not just good, but absolutely outstanding.
Addressing the amplifiers:
Since the JL Audio HD600/4 is strictly regulated it is more robust than unregulated amplifiers of equal power rating. An unregulated amplifier will typically drop 25% power with a lower 12.6 volt supply. Yet the JL HD maintains full power down to an 11 volt supply.
Going by JL's specs the HD750/1 has a limited top end. But tested it is barely down at 18 to 20 kHz with some slight variation between a 2 and 4-ohm load. You can't hear 20 kHz. And a large diameter compression dome tweeter used in an HLCD will not play linear to 20 kHz. In a blindfold test you could not tell the difference on a tower. In a luxury car with a major sound damping upgrade and Focal or Hertz/Audison or other $1000 speakers with lossless files and an outboard DAC? Sure. It would be a valid concern.
A couple of other suggestions for you. The HD750/1 is perfect for a single 12W6. A second 12W6 on the sub channel of a HD900/5 is lite on power.
A second sub in an alternate location will give you a bit more output but the phasing conflicts will smear the bass sound quality.
Not a good idea to run six coaxials off of the four highpass channels of the HD900/5. That amplifier should be restricted to four symmetrical 4-ohm loads. Unlike the HD600/4, the HD900/5 has one power supply for the front and rear channels. A lower impedance on two channels will bias the power supply rail voltage of all four channels and yield LESS overall power. Note that the 4 X 100 2 4-ohms power drops to 4 X 75 with a 2-ohm load. That's a bit misleading but using asymmetrical front and rear loads is a definite No No. You could switch over to another HD600/4 or add a bridged M400 for the bow speakers. Or, perhaps you feel the bow is a sacrificial getaway zone and you could live with less power up there.
Feel free to pass my comments on to your guys. Again, they did a fantastic job. Or, holler back if you need more clarification on anything.
Btw, no association with Earmark Marine anymore (other than having lots of great friends there). I'm retired as of a year ago.

I agree about the install looking good, and the panel under the helm looks great. I know that probably took a lot of time, but I'm a little surprised they didn't do anything better around the battery switch and fusebox. That, on the other hand, looks terrible. Maybe it's because you may upgrade?

Look into a pair of Syn4's or 1 SD2 for the towers.

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Originally Posted by David Analog

Not a good idea to run six coaxials off of the four highpass channels of the HD900/5. That amplifier should be restricted to four symmetrical 4-ohm loads. Unlike the HD600/4, the HD900/5 has one power supply for the front and rear channels. A lower impedance on two channels will bias the power supply rail voltage of all four channels and yield LESS overall power. Note that the 4 X 100 2 4-ohms power drops to 4 X 75 with a 2-ohm load. That's a bit misleading but using asymmetrical front and rear loads is a definite No No.

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Other then a reduction in power to the 4 chnls, will there be any operating symptoms that might pop up?

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Originally Posted by Wylietunes

Other then a reduction in power to the 4 chnls, will there be any operating symptoms that might pop up?

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Not really any other symptoms. While we haven't confirmed there are bow speakers also, but if there are, that would yield 37.5 watts to each cockpit speaker which is crazy lite for that speaker. I've seen the lower model MX 6.5" running on 200 watts each on display for several years and never a failure, not that I would recommend that much power.
There are all kinds of regulation. Power supply side. Output section side. The strictly regulated HD series does both. As supply voltage is lower more current is drawn as an offset. As well as the inverse. As the load impedance lowers the power supply rails produce less voltage to keep the current the same. As well as the inverse. It's the cleanest and most robust design. Very stable. More bandwidth. More warmth and authority on the low end, especially with lower supply voltages. The single caveat is that a four channel strictly regulated amplifier would need to have separate front and rear power supplies so that all channels are not biased by just half the amplifier's load. The HD600/4 has dual power supplies. The HD900/5 has dual power supplies also but they a dedicated to a) the sub channel and b) the four highpass channels. So the ideal application for the HD900/5 is with symmetrical front and rear 4-ohm satellites. In my mind, the HD900/5 is the most sophisticated 5-channel amplifier available....as long as you keep it within its intended application.

Well thanks for all the concern on our amp choices. Not sure where I asked for help with that, but I'll keep all that in mind. As it is right now, I do not hear the need for any more power. All the gains on the amps are very low actually and the system is loud. I was tuning it the other night and you can't be behind the boat and your ears not hurt. I'm not out on the lake to have a stereo pissing contest so i'm very happy with how it turned out. It is by far loud enough for me and my family.

As for the amp rack comment....I didnt see the need to dress that up. For one, that is all the factory wiring and amp locations. All they did was move the battery charger and replace the amps and wire. The compartment is only opened for people to throw their crap in there. I didn't feel it was necessary to spend a bunch of money in there. If that was a concern, it would have been done. I guess i'll just wait till next year to redo the whole system, because i'm sure all my amps and speakers will be blown by then. ;)

In-Boats....There are two in the bow and for in the main cabin. I have a fourth pair to add, I just haven't found a good place that will blend in with the interior yet.

If anyone is on lake conroe and would like to hear it, please let me know. I'll be happy to give you a demo!

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Originally Posted by SuperchargedC6

As for the amp rack comment....I didnt see the need to dress that up. For one, that is all the factory wiring and amp locations. All they did was move the battery charger and replace the amps and wire. The compartment is only opened for people to throw their crap in there. I didn't feel it was necessary to spend a bunch of money in there. If that was a concern, it would have been done. I guess i'll just wait till next year to redo the whole system, because i'm sure all my amps and speakers will be blown by then. ;)

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I just couldn't understand leaving all the wiring going everywhere from the battery switch and not cleaning it up when they did such a good job on the rest of the boat. Factory wiring isn't always great. Most I've seen has been a birds nest.

And btw, don't expect to not have comments or critiques on what you had done when you post it up here.

I can understand the Rev10s being louder than you need and not wanting to be the loudest boat on the lake, however you bought the best tower speakers on the market. I just wanted to point out that the typical Rev10 install pushes 300-400+ watts per speaker, therefore, there is a lot of room left on the table.

Again, the install looks great. If I'm around Conroe I'd love to take you up on that offer to get behind the SC!

Why do so many people get defensive when others provide actual suggestions or further clarifications to help out? The Internet is a funny place. OP your boat is awesome, the install is awesome but don't get bent out of shape for comments when you posted it here for all to see. Opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has them you know. There wasn't one post in here to get all defensive about.

My $.02. Enjoy that boat.

Oh I don't take offense to any criticism. I know there are plenty of ways to upgrade what I just had put in. As soon as I save up some more cash i'll probably add a second 600/4 for the tower and I might even do a cool amp rack. For now, this is what fit the budget the best. I wasn't trying to be defensive in my last comment, hence the smiley face. Hard to hear the tone of ones voice on a forum! And if anyone is around the lake conroe area and wants to check it out, let me know. We are always out there to have a good time!

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Originally Posted by cigars n scotch

Why do so many people get defensive when others provide actual suggestions or further clarifications to help out? The Internet is a funny place. OP your boat is awesome, the install is awesome but don't get bent out of shape for comments when you posted it here for all to see. Opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has them you know. There wasn't one post in here to get all defensive about.

My $.02. Enjoy that boat.

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That's exactly where I was going with my last comment. His first paragraph sounded pretty egotistical, and the smiley face wasn't close to it.

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Originally Posted by SuperchargedC6

As soon as I save up some more cash i'll probably add a second 600/4 for the tower and I might even do a cool amp rack.

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.... More money and less power than the 750.1. You're killing me smalls. Lol, carry on

Yeah, but I already own a 600/4 so it would be cheaper to just add another one later.