Quick part number identification

During winterization I wanted to drain the water out of the ballast tank lines and found that one of the connections was not a quick disconnect, (pictured in the center) rather a barb type fitting that is proving difficult to remove without tearing the hose. Either way, I'd like to order this quick disconnect assembly in order to make my life that much easier around this time of year!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...g/IMG_6354.jpg

So is anyone familiar with this part? or have the replacement part number and/or where I can go ahead and order one online?

Thanks in advance!

Well in the amount of time from when I wrote this post to the time it got approved I think I was able to find most of my answers! See if you agree.

They look to be Fly High flow rite valves? W742 3/4" 90 attached to a W736?

Bought mine a wakemakers.com. Great company!


Bowz

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Originally Posted by BOWZ

Bought mine a wakemakers.com. Great company!

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Thanks for the tip, I'll give them a shot!

Ok, so another question. I ran the fake lake on the boat for 15 min or so, temp showed 160 on the dash, switched from the hose water to RV antifreeze tank. In about 30 seconds it pulled 4 gallons (max the tank held) through and I had pink antifreeze coming out the exhaust. So I thought all was good. Since this was my first time winterizing the boat I wanted to give myself piece of mind before leaving her out in the cold and decided to pull the knock sensors to ensure I had the pink stuff in the block. Good thing I checked because only water came out, didn't see a hint of pink! Could have been a costly mistake!!

So what did I do wrong? Why did the thermostat not open at 160?

Just glad I checked. I ended up pulling all plugs and draining instead of running coolant through the engine again.

just updating for future searchers... these are the parts you need

Attachment 16752 & Attachment 16753

and one more question, I would like to avoid "dry" storing the boat for rust and scale reasons so what would be the "best" hose to pour antifreeze into? Through the top of the J hose?

Thanks in advance for the help.

After I've drained all the water out of the drain plugs and put them back in I pull the thermostat housing and pour the antifreeze directly in the motor till it fills to the top of the thermostat hole. I also pour it directly down the hoses into the exhaust manifolds. That way I know there's not any water in the system to dilute the antifreeze. As far as the rest of the raw water lines I just make sure they're drained.

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Originally Posted by ssa

After I've drained all the water out of the drain plugs and put them back in I pull the thermostat housing and pour the antifreeze directly in the motor till it fills to the top of the thermostat hole. I also pour it directly down the hoses into the exhaust manifolds. That way I know there's not any water in the system to dilute the antifreeze. As far as the rest of the raw water lines I just make sure they're drained.

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Thanks! Planned on replacing the thermostat anyway, might as well while its apart.

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Originally Posted by ssa

I pull the thermostat housing and pour the antifreeze directly in the motor till it fills to the top of the thermostat hole. I also pour it directly down the hoses into the exhaust manifolds.

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Well I pulled the thermostat housing off but couldn't get the thermostat to budge, it felt like it was welded in there! So I pulled the J hose off the top of the thermostat housing and poured antifreeze down the hose. I pretty sure that will get down into the block but if I need to I'll attempt removing the thermostat this afternoon since it was late by the time I got to it last night. Forecast is for 28 degrees over the next couple of nights so I just want to make sure I'm good!

One more question, what bilge pumps came with an 08 22ft SS? During winterizing I noticed that my aft bilge was not turning on or lighting up the switch when pressed. Found the bilge pump laying on its side. I noticed that the factory harness is a three wire setup and this pump was wired with two wires and had the third wire(brown)just dangling loose.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...g/IMG_6488.jpg

I was looking at an Atwood Sahara S750 but wasn't sure if the Rule2000 was a "better" unit.

Best place to buy a 160 degree thermostat for a 350 with gaskets? Seems like I could just pick on up at NAPA right?

My 95 Sunsport had a Sahara 500 in it when I bought it. Factory unit or not I don't know but it lasted almost two years for me. I put the same thing back in it since it was only one I found that was US made. Second week out it shorted and warped the top of the housing. I bought a Rule to replace it. Is one better than the other I don't know but I wasn't going to put another Atwood in with that one burning up so quick. 2000 gph is preferable to 750 gph though I'd think.

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Originally Posted by ssa

My 95 Sunsport had a Sahara 500 in it when I bought it. Factory unit or not I don't know but it lasted almost two years for me. I put the same thing back in it since it was only one I found that was US made. Second week out it shorted and warped the top of the housing. I bought a Rule to replace it. Is one better than the other I don't know but I wasn't going to put another Atwood in with that one burning up so quick. 2000 gph is preferable to 750 gph though I'd think.

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Was the Sahara a 3 wire plug?

3 wire. It has built in float switch I don't think the Rule you have does. Which is probably the difference in wiring.

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Originally Posted by ssa

3 wire. It has built in float switch I don't think the Rule you have does. Which is probably the difference in wiring.

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Yep must be because I found out the Rue 10 does not have a float, you have to turn it on for it to pump water.

So I took the pump apart to clean and see if the pump was bad, turns out when I connect to 12v power it runs just fine. So now I guess its something in the switch or wiring because the fuse is good as far as I can tell but the light on the console does not light up red when you toggle it.