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Hey guys I'm new here. I have searched and haven't found anything yet. I have a cracked block on my pro boss. I just bought a ford 351 Windsor to replace the old motor. It is a rebuilt motor a little over a year ago coming out of 65 mustang. Can anyone make suggestions I need to do to it to make it a marine engine. I will be using most of all my old parts from the original motor. Thanks
I'm not a motor guy, but I do know the cam for that motor will not be the right one. I'm sure it'll work, but I know the marine version is not the same. As I understand it the marine version is set up for a lot more bottom end torque, so I'm guessing your hole shot will be a bit weak. There are some really good motor guys on the forum so they can chime in on anything else to watch for. Since you're moving everything over from the old motor, I don't see a problem otherwise. For safety you must use the starter, alternator, distributor and carb off the old motor for sure. And fuel lines should not be rubber.
i'm not a ford guy, but i know some of the older chevy cylinder heads do not have the mounting locations for the marine accessory brackets. Double check your heads to make sure you can bolt all of your brackets onto the old mustang motor/cylinder heads. Also verify that the exhaust manifolds have the same bolt pattern and are compatible. Chris is correct, the camshaft will not be optimized for marine use, but should work. Depending on what intake manifold you have, it may be the same case as the camshaft.
I'd verify the donor motor is good with a compression test and leak down test before i even considered it. Just because it was rebuilt a year ago, doesn't mean its a healthy engine. A lot can happen in a year, and "rebuilt" can mean a lot of different things to different people. Why is the mustang owner getting rid of an engine he just rebuilt last year?
alright thank you both. I had my mechanic check out the motor before I purchased it. Everything seemed to check out. He was selling it because It was too big for the engine bay and power steering would not fit. It originally came out of a crown Victoria. I will check out the brackets and exhaust manifold bolt pattern.
Again thank you. I will post some pictures and updates for anyone interested in following the progress.
So your Proboss and the 351 are both fords and are the same block. The difference is the marine engines were set up more like the trucks versions. You're going to use the gt40 heads off the Proboss engine. You'll add a bunch of horsepower. Also all the freeze plugs will have to be switched to the brass ones. Last thing to check is to make sure the Proboss wasn't a reverse rotation motor. If it is, You're going to make to switch the prop. Keep us posted. I love these threads.
Good point on the rotation. This boat would have a 1.23:1 transmission, right? I believe you would have to also switch something on the transmission if you had to switch the direction it's being spun. My memory is a bit hazy and I'm at work so I can't spend a lot of time googling it, but that was my recollection. (Front main seal??) If they're the same rotation, there's no problem obviously. But you may still want to check WOT RPM and consider a new prop regardless. Any change in power might make a prop swap a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cusefan78
most direct drives made 1989 and later use the 1.23:1 transmission, and have LH engines. There are some RH rotation engines mated to 1:1 PCM transmissions.
If you have a reverse rotation you'll need to change the starter, distributor, prop, and I believe all you'll need to do for the tranny is rotate the pump 180 degrees. some of the engine guys on here should be able to verify this.
Thank you everyone. This is all very helpful. We will be starting Monday morning to begin the project. Definitely excited. Again I will keep you all posted and up to date with the progress
Here is a picture of the stock engine coming out. This was this spring when I was replacing spark plugs and the fuel filter (before I knew the block was cracked)
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This one is of the new Engine purchased being swapped in.
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So to date. This week I have been disassembling the old motor in the boat in order to lift her out. Ran into a few hickups. One the old alternator I was going to reuse and rebuild cracked inside as I was unscrewing a nut holding wiring to it. I will most likely need to buy a new alternator. Also the headers need to be removed in order to get an impact gun on the motor mount. the bolts being used for the exhaust manifold are hex. unfortunately they stripped out because they are so rusty. will need an easy out or other way to get a few of those bolts out (successfully removed 10 of the 16 bolts). Last hickup is that on top of the exhaust that connects to the headers, 3 of the 8 bolts broke when loosening them. So I have 3 bolts sticking out about a quarter of an inch. I will most likely need to drill them out.
Here is where it is at as of a half hour ago
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Try some heat on the broken / stuck bolts. If you have access to an acetylene torch use that. If not a bottle of map gas and a torch tip from home depot is the next best thing. For the broken bolts, heat up the area of the casting that the bolt is broken off in, do not heat the bolt its self. Get it as hot as you can, and clamp a GOOD pair of vise grips on it as hard as you can and try to work it free. Heating it and letting it cool down, then reheating a few times, and applying a good penetrating lubricant in between heat cycles works good for really stubborn bolts. Keep a bucket of water near by just incase of fire. It takes a little practice and patience, but its a lot better than drilling out broken bolts and retapping the holes.
Look for some different valve covers , cause I don't think the aluminum ones you have will work with the manifolds
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Alright guys, I got the old engine pulled yesterday. Lucked out by a granite shop my brother worked for letting me used their shop crane. Made it simple. Had 6 bolts loosened. Took all of 1 hr to back the boat in. Hoisting the engine. And dropping it into the truck bed. Now time to start swapping parts in the garage and removing those stubborn bolts in the manifolds how y'all suggested. Attachment 17632
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Soak the bolts in some rust penetrant , tap the head with a dead blow hammer and a punch , tighten first then loosen , then tight then try to back it out . Heat it up if all else fails
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Here's another update. Still a no go on the manifold bolts. I have tried all of your suggestions. Thank you. I did manage to extract one. I think I will end up drills mg them out.
As for rotation. The old motor has a 1:1 percent tranny. Research tells me it's a clockwise rotation engine along with the new engine. Should all pair up.. Hopefully.
I ended up having to swap more than I thought including the water pump, the timing chain cover, the oil pan, distributor, valve covers. Pulleys, oil pump screen, and all the gaskets that go
Along with that. So that's where I am today. I received the wr My gasket for the timing chain can get unless that would all be back and installed. While the parts were off. I cleaned everything in engine degreaser and Clr. Added some paint and poof. Blue and yellow theme.
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You need to buy a impact air 3/8 drive or 1/2 and use the impact to buzz them off . But they may snap that's why I always tighten , loosen , tighten , then try to back it out . Use a longer bar or pipe to gain leverage
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Already tried an impact gun. They are hex keys. Meaning you can get a socket around the bolt heads. They go into the bolt head as a Ellen wrench would. The inside went from hexagon to a circle in the inner part of the bolt head.
Anyways I'm going to get after the headers again sometime but iv been staying pretty busy with everything else. today I got the timing chain cover, water pump, harmonic balancer and all my pulley assemblies besides the alternator on. I also got the transmission transferred over as well. all that's left is valve cover gaskets to get them back on permanently. A gasket for a water intake. And of course the headers which I can assemble after the motor is in back in the boat if need be. Here are some pictures.
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Here is is dropped back onto the boat. I won't get it out this season but I hope to have it ready for next spring. Thanks for all the help and I am sure I will have more questions as I hook everything up especially electrical. Attachment 17782
Back to the project this week. I am currently on the mission to connect up all the wiring and fuel lines. I appreciate all the help with the exhaust manifolds and trying to remove the bolts, however I decided to buy new exhaust manifolds as the old ones are very rusty.
Also, does anyone know what this is? It's on the back of the block on the upper left side above the tranny. I overtightened it and broke it off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...08e428b2e1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36b1b45ee3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc85cd7a1f.jpg
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Take a pic of the location where it was installed . Could be oil press , but most 351 are buy oil filter housingQuote:
Originally Posted by miller
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Here is where where was on old block and on the new block where it broke
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