ignition work - coil, cap, etc.

I recently had a bit of a 'miss' during holeshot and top speed runs. I was able to isolate to electrical. I had a coil problem, so I replaced with a NAPA IC-14 and left my electronic ignition in place. When installing the new coil the previous owner had left all the wire leads in place, so there's an excess bit of positive / negative wire to the coil.

Now, this may be my auto racing / engineering / 'german' based background - but I want to shorten up these leads to the electronic ignition to mate up to the coil in a cleaner fashion.

Am I OK to shorten these leads? Or is there some reason they're a certain length from the manufacturer?

Thanks!

I don't see any reason not.

Thanks Michael. I cleaned up the wiring, installed new coil and all runs as designed. No more miss.
Best,
Chris

Anyone have the NAPA part # for an 86 Pleasurecraft 351? I stumped the late night guy at my NAPA and didn't have the distributor cap with me to refer to.

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Originally Posted by ckracing

Anyone have the NAPA part # for an 86 Pleasurecraft 351? I stumped the late night guy at my NAPA and didn't have the distributor cap with me to refer to.

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Just pick an 85 pick-up that would have the same engine. They'll have them in stock.

Anyone have this type of issue with a boat like mine? 08 22V. I seem to have a cylinder that will miss, but sporadically. It will come out of it when cruising down the lake, then it will go back a little while later. I was going to start with replacing the plugs. Any other thoughts? fuel filter with water in it maybe?

Are they coil on top of plugs ? Or wires ?

Inspect boots and or could be bad cool but 80% of the time it's not the coil , but cannot be sure without a noid light or coil tester .


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Wires, all boots and writes look good visually. I'm hoping not electrical, but who knows. I guess I'll start with the plugs and go from there. Thanks

Don't throw parts at it , by a noid light or volt meter to verify .


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If I have a standard volt meter how do I test each one while running? Pull and test from the cap? Or the plug end? Do you know what each wire should test at? Appreciate the help! Thanks

You can't do that with a standard volt meter. If you have a timing light you can clamp it on each wire and just watch the pulses. Alternatively you can pull the wires off the plugs one at a time to see if it changes but you might get whacked. It won't kill you, but you won't like it ;-) If you have some heavy rubber gloves, you should be ok though. Alternatively, you can pull a wire, start the boat and see how it idles, then put it back on and repeat. This you could do from the distributor cap end. In either case you could do it at the cap end, but I don't like pulling off the cap while it's running because you've got all those moving belts so close to the cap and if you do jump, you could end up with your hand in the alternator belt.

Sounds good I will give it a try. The challenge is that at this point it does it so randomly it might be hard to consistently find. Thanks again!

Spot on , I use to pull wires as well , all we are looking for is a change in state of the engine , find in that doesn't change the idle and you will be close . Also is this a throttle body engine or direct Port injection .


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Port injection I think. I changed the plugs, put some fuel stabilizer/water remover in, and pulled the cap and rotor and cleaned it up a bit. Very small amount of corrosion on the electrode posts, but nothing I would think could cause a miss. Anyway, seemed to clear up the problem...so I guess I can't complain! Thanks again!