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Hey guys,
I've had water coming into my old salt coming up around my exhaust tubes. I removed the baffles and caulked the bejesus out of the tubes two seasons ago. No change. The only thing I can figure is that there is a hole in my pipes.
Anyone experience similar problems?
Thanks,
Jack
(Oh, BTW, its not leaking at the rudder box or the shaft or dripping down from anywhere above the deck. This I mention because others have suggested these possibilities. Not the case.)
Did you reach up the exhaust pipes and get those joints? The pipes 'connect' to the baffles maybe 4" in but it's far from water tight w/o sealant. Scrub the area clean with a brush/rinse/dry well and slather some 4200 in there.
That's interesting. I have had the same problem for a few years. I still am running the trapps as exhausts and assumed it was coming from where the two join but it sounds like you are saying there are joints in the exhaust pipes. I was going to remove the trapps this year and remove the exhaust pipes and then go with flapper style exhaust. I would have lost my mind if I did the replacement work and still had leaks. So you are saying you need to seal the actual pipes? I always thought they were one piece.
thanks
Dan
The hardware the trapps attach to is part of the flange mounted to the transom, not the exhaust pipe. So the pipes and flange meet up and need to be sealed. The best way to maintain the exhaust would be to pull the trapps off the transom and scrape away any old sealant there and up the pipes. Re-bed the flanges and hit the joint in the pipes...all of it with 4200.
Was a surprise to me too until taking it all apart for rebuilding stringers. You'd think it would have been more commonly identified as needing periodic maintenance since the result is waterlogged foam and rotting stringers (if your exhaust is under the floor like some models).
I put it pretty far up in there. Not sure I knew there was a joint at 4" tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
Thanks for the response.
Also check your platform brackets and bolts. After replacing my rudder with a new style MC box and large rudder I still had water coming in. Resealing the three transom brackets resulted in a completely dry bilge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadunkle
The brackets look to be sealed tighter than a duck's butt. Then again, water can find a way. Thanks for the tip!
Jack
Hey guys, got the boat back from my fiberglass guy. New floor. Original stringers solid. I’ve got water coming in around my pipes like you wouldn’t believe. I need to caulk the interior of the tubes? Wtf?
Salt is right. The SupraTrapps are the biggest reason so many of our beloved old Supras end up needing stringer replacement. No one ever knew to seal the joint inside the pipes and water got under the floor, wicked into the entire boat by the spongy foam. Good ballast though! Even though the traps sound great, you have to ditch 'em!Quote:
Originally Posted by chautauquasun
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
The exhaust pipes overlap the transom flange (maybe the transom flange overlaps the straight pipes, it's been a long time since my rebuild) a couple inches forward of the transom. There's no splitting hairs, horrible design. The pipes could have just extended 4 or however many inches to the transom with the trapps connecting directly to them. But, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by chautauquasun
So good to see you back, Clint! I just realized you have a new handle. The trapps are ok as long as they get resealed periodically. Those with floors that end a foot or so short of the transom are at a bit of an advantage for being able to see the leak. Wish I had done that with my rebuilt floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by nboardskier
Skiman, this is a below the waterline application. Best to use 3M 4200 or something else approved for such. Caulk from 2 years ago with a new floor is a bit of a pucker factor. Spending a couple hours to pull apart, scrape clean, reseal with new sealant would be money well spent to protect your recent work as well as stopping the leak.
The design does suck, directed the concussive force of the exhaust back at the hull and the thin seal with hot water.Quote:
Originally Posted by nboardskier
So, what'd you replace them with and how?
Thanks,
Jack
Pulled the baffles, here's what I found. Big gaps in the caulk. Figure if I clean and seal and put back I ought to be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiman_61
I have the same issue on my 88 Salt. I'm assuming that I need to take the gas tank out to get at the supertraps. Any particular pointers? I have loosened everything up but the gas tank doesn't want to really move. I haven't applied any force, thought I would check with the group.
Thanks- I will also check the seems.
The pipes in my '87 meet the transom to within a millimeter. (see pics) I would not go to the trouble of removing the gas tank, as I did for deck replacement, just to mess with the pipes. My flange piece extends into the exhaust tube maybe an inch. I'm going to carefully re-caulk around the very small gap on the exterior of my tubes and let that cure for 24 hours. Then I'll replace the flanges and caulk them inside and out as well. My fiberglass guy did re-caulk the tubes, but I think it was one of his workers and maybe the guy wasn't diligent as the caulk sagged after application because he slapped it together wet.Quote:
Best of luck to you.
Jack
That 'caulk' job is a mess, no offense.
The flanges and screws should be bedded in sealant, not buried. The first plate seats into the flange and all that goop is just in the way. It's not causing your leak at least. This is how mine looked before teardown....
Attachment 18666
The flange curls into the exhaust tube and overlaps the pipe. Whether it's an inch or 4 inches up it's an area that needs sealant. 3m 4200 is perfect for this application but there are other sealants approved for below the waterline.
New sealant over old won't work well. Pull it all apart and clean it up. You'll see why the pipes need sealant, too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
Yes, I should have taken more pics. I pulled all the old caulk. Those gaps around the pipe have to be where the water was getting in. Can’t imagine where else?
Redid all the caulk around the exhausts. Let it cure as recommended. Still have water coming in. I'll pull the ski, platform this week and caulk the begets out of those holes. Water is appearing just on the other side of the vent hose below the exhaust.
Sealed the swim platform mounts today. Letting it cure.
UPDATES: I still have water coming in just under the exhaust pipe as can be seen in my last pic. I spoke with Vince at SKIDIM about the issue. He related that one other person in his experience had the pipes themselves leak. Has to be where it's coming in as I've sealed the bejeepers out of all other holes in the transom.
Figuring I'll have to pull all of the stuff in the back end and pull the pipes.
That sucks. The exhaust pipes probably won't come out with the floor intact. I haven't tried but the motor side ends of the pipes have a 45 degree bend. And, the factory foaming job pretty much glued the pipes in place. The pipes are pretty thick so unlikely they'll rust out.
Does your flooring go all the way back to the transom? Some models/years had the floor stop about a foot short of the transom. Nice access to all that stuff.
Did you re-use the same screw holes for the baseplates of the trapps?...or fill them in (marine tex or epoxy, etc) and drill new holes?
You found the joint a couple inches up the pipes that needs sealant?
I've been told that they're stainless. They do have a seam, though, and I think that may be the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
Used the same holes, caulked them good.
The floor does go all the way back. I was thinking maybe to cut that section of it out. Brand new floor. :-( With hindsight, I could have done something different with the deck back there to allow access. Everyone I consulted, with the exception of Vince at SKIDIM, said there's no way it's the pipes themselves.
I didn't see any joints a few inches into the pipe, unless you're talking about the area where the baffle mount attaches to the interior?