Easy $25 winterizing plan for TS6M

This year I will be winterizing as follows
Two 5 gal buckets, one under each exhaust, one $15 electric fuel Pump from autozone. $10 for 2-Bulkhead fittings, 1-T or Y fitting, 7-hose clamps. Drill one hole each in the bottom/side of buckets. Install a bulkhead fitting and old water hose. "T" or "Y" together buckets, install fuel Pump inline, connect water hose to your inlet plunger. Run some wire to your battery, Fill both buckets halfway with antifreeze... With this system you can run the engine for an extended amount of time. Pics for pleasure.. I will post up pics and vid when I do winterize. Still 94 degrees and lovely weather in East Texas...

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Should be say too early for TX.

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Yes we still have 2 months left in the season


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Yes definitely post up more pictures of the comp. looking good.

Here's some more pics, planning on doing a few engine mods over the winter. Got Gator Step coming for the swim deck and a KnobWorx throttle knob in the works...


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Here's my swim deck proof, and the the style throttle knob I got in the works..



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1- pull 5 drain plugs drain all water from engine .
2- pull hoses off raw water pump drain trans cooler and raw water pump.
3- reinstall all drain plugs
4- bend upper raw water pump hose up install funnel add antifreeze untill it comes out the exhaust.

Sorry for hi-jack, didn’t see your original post and couldn’t resist Comp eye candy. Trailer refurb and all. +++

Have winterized many ways of the years but must say Mr. Hunter’s above is fool-proof.

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Originally Posted by 87TSComp

This year I will be winterizing as follows
Two 5 gal buckets, one under each exhaust, one $15 electric fuel Pump from autozone. $10 for 2-Bulkhead fittings, 1-T or Y fitting, 7-hose clamps. Drill one hole each in the bottom/side of buckets. Install a bulkhead fitting and old water hose. "T" or "Y" together buckets, install fuel Pump inline, connect water hose to your inlet plunger. Run some wire to your battery, Fill both buckets halfway with antifreeze... With this system you can run the engine for an extended amount of time. Pics for pleasure.. I will post up pics and vid when I do winterize. Still 94 degrees and lovely weather in East Texas...


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If water is not drained from the block , lines and mufflers this method will in no way winterize an engine. The amount of dilution will effectively render the plumbing antifreeze useless. It would require roughly 45 gallons of antifreeze to provide any effective freeze protection. Please refer to mr hunters outline above.

While pumping antifreeze let exhaust water run on ground until pure antifreeze is seen then put buckets under exhaust, then you can run the engine as long as you want as often as you want


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Cool ride.


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Search for “cracked block” here or on the Moomba Forum. Betting they did not drain water.



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I used the bucket method on my Rider. Never pulled a one plug in my life. Just ran antifreeze through motor and never had an issue.

On 242 however, takes me 40 min to winterize with draining the block and hoses. I don't add any antifreeze as in Hunter's step 4.
Two seasons so far and no issues either.

Both stored indoors and GA winters aren't like the north so going to the extreme here is not my thing.

My advice is do it your way and do whatever your are comfortable with that makes it so you can sleep at night.

I did crack a v6 block one year but I built this for that boat...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...69cd435de3.png


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Originally Posted by 87TSComp

While pumping antifreeze let exhaust water run on ground until pure antifreeze is seen then put buckets under exhaust, then you can run the engine as long as you want as often as you want
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Antifreeze will not enter a cold block ( it will bypass it and flow directly thru the exhaust manifold and out the mufflers and exhaust) and there may be 2 gallons of water in the block. No antifreeze will enter a block untill it is up to temp and then the thermostat only begins to allow hot water to escape and plumbing antifreeze will then start to dilute the block water. Again , you will need 10x the amount of antifreeze or 20 gallons to achieve a freeze protection of -30. Drain your block or crack you block. I write this not for comp but anyone who was thinking of using this method.

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Originally Posted by docdrs

Antifreeze will not enter a cold block ( it will bypass it and flow directly thru the exhaust manifold and out the mufflers and exhaust) and there may be 2 gallons of water in the block. No antifreeze will enter a block untill it is up to temp and then the thermostat only begins to allow hot water to escape and plumbing antifreeze will then start to dilute the block water. Again , you will need 10x the amount of antifreeze or 20 gallons to achieve a freeze protection of -30. Drain your block or crack you block. I write this not for comp but anyone who was thinking of using this method.

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Ha Ha. You need to trademark that: "Drain your block or crack you block"

I maybe get 1/2 a gallon of fluid out the exhaust before the thermostat opens???


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I forgot to mention the low in East Texas winters is usually no lower than 25 degrees.


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Also is it easier to drain block and get all 5 gallons of water out or take the thermostat out?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by docdrs

Antifreeze will not enter a cold block ( it will bypass it and flow directly thru the exhaust manifold and out the mufflers and exhaust) and there may be 2 gallons of water in the block. No antifreeze will enter a block untill it is up to temp and then the thermostat only begins to allow hot water to escape and plumbing antifreeze will then start to dilute the block water. Again , you will need 10x the amount of antifreeze or 20 gallons to achieve a freeze protection of -30. Drain your block or crack you block. I write this not for comp but anyone who was thinking of using this method.

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Minus 30?? Good grief, I would move immediately!!

Climate controlled building is easiest way to winterize it I found out. Do nothing at all.

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Originally Posted by 87TSComp

I maybe get 1/2 a gallon of fluid out the exhaust before the thermostat opens???


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Is that a statement or a question? the tstat won't begin to open until the temp gets up to 160 which takes a considerable amount of time.you are kidding yourself you are actually protecting yourself. why not just do it the proper way? It does not take any longer!!!!!!!

you can do what you want but in no way think you are doing it correctly because you only get down to 25 degrees. You can't put out a blanket statement and feel its good for everyone. its this stuff that gives people a false sense of security until they have a 15000 motor repair bill,

A previous poster said with my system I would be pumping the antifreeze and it would be bypassing out of the exhaust until the Tstat opened, thus contaminating my 10 gallons of antifreeze with 5 gal of water.
The other day when I ran the boat on the hose I got maybe 1/2 a gal out the exhaust in the 3-4 minutes it took to open tstat. Thus I wouldn't have to worry about contaminating my antifreeze. Just run it till I get antifreeze out the exhaust then put the buckets under or take tstat out...


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 87TSComp

A previous poster said with my system I would be pumping the antifreeze and it would be bypassing out of the exhaust until the Tstat opened, thus contaminating my 10 gallons of antifreeze with 5 gal of water.
The other day when I ran the boat on the hose I got maybe 1/2 a gal out the exhaust in the 3-4 minutes it took to open tstat. Thus I wouldn't have to worry about contaminating my antifreeze. Just run it till I get antifreeze out the exhaust then put the buckets under or take tstat out...
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it takes way more time to take the tstat out than drain the block and 10 gallons of antifreeze is like $40 ....this makes no sense ... plus it takes a good 10-15 mins to get my temp up to 160 and way more than 1/2 gallon.........why why why, no worries, i deal with -40 temps so call yourself lucky

Here is the problem . If the engine was a hose your method would work great . An engine has all kinds of passages, nooks and dead spots for water to get trapped in . Water will follow the path of less resistance . Its very possible for the antifreeze to just go over a dead spot or passage because its easier to flow around it. So how can you be absoloutly sure all the water has mixed with the antifreeze? If it dosn't mix it will freeze. I dont see what the problem is especially on a comp it takes 10 min to drain the water . The whole job takes 15 minutes . I live in GA all my boats are stored in a non heated pole barn. I have never seen the inside temp below freezing even with out heat so I could get by without winterizing at all. I still winterize all four of them So I gotta ask " Do you feel lucky today".

This thread cracks me up!

Just show more pics of that beautiful boat.

Lol my main reasoning behind all this is to have an excuse to fire her up weekly in the winter...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4cf77d9f00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...670a2b3040.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...627bcf0d02.jpg


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I have to admit....the boat does look kickass......curious, is that new black gel coat or is it paint?

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Originally Posted by Mischief IV

This thread cracks me up!

Just show more pics of that beautiful boat.

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This topic invariably comes up at least once a year at the end of the season. The Comp takes all of five to seven minutes to drain if you lay out all the tools and go like hell and hope that you do not miss anything. Mr. Hunter's timeline is a better one to gauge off of though as I use the time to go over the entire engine and transmission to just check for anything that might need attention due to another season of "minimal" use.

The boat was completely repainted, the bottom color is a very dark blue, synergy green and metallic silver.. all GM colors , supra graphics are paint as well..


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Originally Posted by Jetlink

This topic invariably comes up at least once a year at the end of the season. The Comp takes all of five to seven minutes to drain if you lay out all the tools and go like hell and hope that you do not miss anything. Mr. Hunter's timeline is a better one to gauge off of though as I use the time to go over the entire engine and transmission to just check for anything that might need attention due to another season of "minimal" use.

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It takes me 15 min. just to find all my tools. Mr. Hunter probably keeps a Swiss army knife in his shorts when he skis for such occasion.
Unfortunately, I have to remove ballast bags first to get to motor access. Then contort my body while laying in the fetal position in rear lockers while I say a few choice words and ponder why I don't just connect my bucket and fill her up with antifreeze like I did my Rider for so many years to much success.

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Originally Posted by 87TSComp

The boat was completely repainted, the bottom color is a very dark blue, synergy green and metallic silver.. all GM colors , supra graphics are paint as well..

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Thanks for posting pics. Very nice job on this boat. It is very inspiring to see someone with a vision and carry it out to such perfection. I like it!!!

Just don't crack the block or this forum will be relentless. :)

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Originally Posted by Mischief IV

It takes me 15 min. just to find all my tools. Mr. Hunter probably keeps a Swiss army knife in his shorts when he skis for such occasion.
Unfortunately, I have to remove ballast bags first to get to motor access. Then contort my body while laying in the fetal position in rear lockers while I say a few choice words and ponder why I don't just connect my bucket and fill her up with antifreeze like I did my Rider for so many years to much success.




Thanks for posting pics. Very nice job on this boat. It is very inspiring to see someone with a vision and carry it out to such perfection. I like it!!!

Just don't crack the block or this forum will be relentless. :)

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Interesting. I have a 2008 Moomba XLV and I can totally winterize w/o removing my rear 1100 ballast bags. I work on my engine ALL THE TIME with my bags still in. Getting to any of my plugs only requires kneeling on my folded down divider panels (I put my throw cushion on it to save my knees). While I'm at it, I typically change the oil too. It's all right there. No laying down required ever. I can't imagine your 2012 is that different than my 08 in layout, is it?

That said, I get way more winter in WA than you do in GA and I simply drain the block, remove a couple hoses, drain the muffler, disconnect the hose that couples the exhaust risers, disconnect the hoses going to/from the heater and blow air through everything with my air compressor. Reinstall all plugs and hoses and get ready for spring. No antifreeze in my system. If the block's empty, there's nothing to freeze.

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Originally Posted by trayson

Interesting. I have a 2008 Moomba XLV and I can totally winterize w/o removing my rear 1100 ballast bags. I work on my engine ALL THE TIME with my bags still in. Getting to any of my plugs only requires kneeling on my folded down divider panels (I put my throw cushion on it to save my knees). While I'm at it, I typically change the oil too. It's all right there. No laying down required ever. I can't imagine your 2012 is that different than my 08 in layout, is it?

That said, I get way more winter in WA than you do in GA and I simply drain the block, remove a couple hoses, drain the muffler, disconnect the hose that couples the exhaust risers, disconnect the hoses going to/from the heater and blow air through everything with my air compressor. Reinstall all plugs and hoses and get ready for spring. No antifreeze in my system. If the block's empty, there's nothing to freeze.

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An empty block won't freeze but can you be absolutely sure its totally empty? Also the dry method promotes rust inside the engine . I don't like allowing the seals and gaskits to dry out. A lot of people do it this way. Adding antifreeze only takes a few minuts to do and insures no pockets of water to freeze

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Originally Posted by michael hunter

An empty block won't freeze but can you be absolutely sure its totally empty? Also the dry method promotes rust inside the engine . I don't like allowing the seals and gaskits to dry out. A lot of people do it this way. Adding antifreeze only takes a few minuts to do and insures no pockets of water to freeze

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I get what you're saying. BUT if you're saying that I can't be totally sure that it's empty with draining it and blowing air through it, then wouldn't you also be saying that you can't be sure you're getting YOUR water out by draining it before you try to replace the water with antifreeze? Who's to say that you don't have pockets of water that the antifreeze isn't mixing with?

I mean, come on, it can't work both ways. If you're unsure that all the water is out in my scenario, how could you be sure all the water is out and replaced with antifreeze in yours?

Because any water still in the block will mix with the antifreeze . Sure it will slightly dilute it but I doubt it would make a one degree differance in protection temp. Your way if there is any water it will freeze . And then there is the rust formation inside the block. I dont like allowing the gaskets and seals to dry out every season. Bottom line its your risk a lot of people do it that way . I just don't want to gamble a high dollar repair over ten minuts of time and 20 dollars in antifreeze.

Where this works is for the guy or mech that does not prob the drain hole. Deposits can accumulate an block this hole during draining. Water will flow out like sob initially then to a dribble giving a false sense of draining. It is no joke you must poke

Got her winterized last night, ran engine for around 30 min, cool thing is I can go out and do it every night if I want... rv/boat antifreeze is $10 for 5 gallons at Walmart. Electric pump was $29 at Atwood's, flows 1 gallon per minute, temp never got over 185*... took me about 15 minutes to plumb, next years winterization cost will be $10 and take just a few minutes to setup...




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Very nice. I still hope you drain the block before you do this. There is over 5 gallons of water in the block, exhaust manifolds , lines and mufflers. Diluting it with 5 gallons will reduce the freeze protection from -40 to +20 degrees and burst protection from -40 to about 0 degrees


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As I turned the electric pump on I got about 2 gallons of clear water out of the exhaust before the antifreeze came out.
The biggest deal with this system is you have to run the engine long enough to open thermostat or take t-stat out.
I did drain block partially after this to find slightly diluted antifreeze. Lowest temp in my area during winter is around 20 deg.


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