Muffler leak

I have an 87 Sunsport. Over the years I've experienced the inevitable floor rot, transom rot,stringer rot. This year it's water leaking out where the exhaust hits the stringer on the driver side (seems to be always that side). We tend to put obese passengers on the port side, and you get better air heelside. I'm not proud of this, but when duct tape will do it...

My approach would be to start chiseling away at the soft stringer where the stainless exhaust
enters the stringer and pack it with marine sealant.

Salty, you alwalys steer me right, got any solutions with chewing gum?

chewing gum, i never thought of using that, duh

i'm having flashbacks...mine was doing pretty much the same thing/same side. i think you've got the right idea, just wrong end. i'd take the super traps off and seal up that end really well. there's a groove in the back side of the super trap that holds sealant, load it up. when i put mine back together i also sealed the inside of the pipe, where the super trap overlaps the exhaust pipe...about an inch inside the pipe. i used 5200 planning on never doing it again. you might want to go with 4200 or something less 'permanent' if you plan to overhaul it.

on the positive side, i don't think the transoms rot on these boats. my boat leaked like that for at least 6 years, transom was fine.

I have a 87 Sunsport with the exact problem on BOTH Sides. What is the super trap? also - I am about 99% confident my foam is saturated from all of this - any ideas on how to drain all of that out?

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Originally Posted by IUFAN24

I have a 87 Sunsport with the exact problem on BOTH Sides. What is the super trap? also - I am about 99% confident my foam is saturated from all of this - any ideas on how to drain all of that out?

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the super trapps are on the transom where the exhaust exits. you might have flappers instead of traps though. either way, that's probably the end where water is getting in.

bad news, if your foam is soaked there's only one way to get it to dry...pull it and replace. it will never dry out. you can cut a hole and test a spot, under a seat or something. you'll probably end up with stringer and deck repairs/replacement too...might wait til the end of the summer.

Salty 87

I am having a similar problem as Sunport 87. I have an 87 TS6M – water is coming over the stringer on the left side abeam the left rear motor mount. I believe I have isolated the leak to the left exhaust pipe. Is it possible for the exhaust pipe to have a hole in it, or is there a weld after it comes through the floor from the risers and the rubber exhaust hose?
The boat has the traps removed. The boat takes on a lot of water as I keep it in a boathouse. When I pull it out on the trailer, the water running out of the left exhaust will fill a water bucket in 24 hours. You have mentioned about sealing the outside of the pipe. Is that just inside the rubber exhaust flaps?

Another thought, is it possible that water is coming in at the transom through the ski platform bracket bolts? The 2 left side upper bolts will turn. I did not force them as I was afraid they might be lag bolts without a washer and nut on the inside and would strip.

Obviously in order to make this repair I would probably have to lift up the floor from the riser back to get at the pipe.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards
John D.

hi john

the exhaust pipes are pretty bullet-proof. i doubt there's a hole. you'd get alot of hot water coming in the boat if that were the case. if you wanted, you could remove the exhaust hoses and pour a gallon down each pipe, see if a gallon comes out the other end. this is what you're dealing with, w/o the deck and foam (your stringers or engine area might be slightly different):

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a10...7/IMG_0289.jpg

if you can zoom in where the exhaust exits the transom at the top of the pic, you'll see that there's not much to it. 6 or 8 screws thru the fiberglass.

you can also get a look at the inside of the bracket bolts in that pic. good chances your hardware is crusty behind the transom.

you could get away with just opening up the floor in the three areas where your platform brackets are. just big enough to get a wrench on the nuts. i think sealing the exhaust pipes is probably enough. however, most likely, you've got soaked foam. the stringer areas where the motor mounts attach to don't do well with standing water. if you open the floor, dig down to the hull and see if the foam squishes water out. good luck

Hi Salty-- Thanks for the quick and informative response--as I mentioned previously, the boat is in the water in a boat house, I believe I have isolated the leak to the left exhaust pipe.I put a rubber glove over the exhaust pipe to prevent the water from entering the pipe,after the 1st day, the water flow deminished, I figued that water was coming from the saturated foam, the2nd day , to day, the flow is down to a tricle. Your photo is most informative,is the pipe bent at the curvature up to the risers or welded ,causing me to think it could be a cracked weld ? Am pleased to see the backing plates on the ski platform brackets. thats an easy fix. The pipe flanges on the outside of the transom seem to well sealed, with no apparent seeping of water when the boat is on the trailer. If I can solve this problem, I'll be a happy camper! I am , I belive the 3rd owner of this boat, I am very happy with the boat in spite of these hiccups-- you might take a look at the HIGH SPEED MISS topic-- got that one solved, thanks to you guys and this forum ! Solve this one and I have a super boat! Thanks again John D. PS--am in No Ontario, The boat came from So. Michigan

let me see if i understand...she's in the water, you've covered the left exhaust and the water running down the stringer has slowed?

if you have a hole in your exhaust pipe, the water running down your stringer will be hot when you're running the engine. unless you have different exhaust pipes, i'd be surprised if they are leaking. the angle is a very stout weld.

do you know if you have traps or flaps on the transom? the traps have a seam inside the pipe that needs to be sealed. i'm not sure about flaps, i've never taken them apart.

got pics of the exhaust/transom? i was so nervous about leaving mine in the water when it was leaking like it was. do you keep yours plugged in or just check on it all the time?

Hi Salty-- The trapps have been removed,and it has flaps. Am going to take your advise and seal inside the pipe grove where the pipe meets the outer flap flange.Also a new wrinkle--- we think the engine had been over heated at one time,since the leak is predominently at thejiont between the exhaust hose and the exhaust pipe. We removed the hose at the top from the riser, the inside of the hose was junk !Theres abviously restriction, as when accelerating warm water enters the bilge over the stringer and in front of the hose. The area is very tight, am wondering if its a poor fit-- the hose to the pipe ? Will find out tomorrow, as have ordered new exhaust hoses. Will pull the boat out on the trailer, and change both hoses.. The proccess of elimination is sooooooo much fun ! Will keep you posted. John D.

Hi Salty--- Many thanks for the tips--I replaced the exhaust hoses--what a job that was! Also sealed the inside of the pipe , ( the grove the supertrap sat in) the exhaust pipe and transom flange joined--metal on metal water will leak in and it did !Would not have clude in had you not mentioned this ! Any how no more water leak !I was also having water coming in what appeared tobe over the stringer where the exhaust hose joins the exhaust pipe. I believe this was due to a loose clamp and or the condition of the old pipe. we would get warm water on acceleration--the old hose, when the boat was sitting in the water, the exhaust pipe is below the water line--loose clamp ! Thanks again ! John D.

that's awesome

I'd like to know how you replaced these rubber hoses.... this was one of the worst parts about pulling and reinstalling the engine. These hoses were stiff and HARD to push back onto both the pipes and the manifolds. I don't think they leak on my boat, but they certainly don't look straight and/or good at all!

when those hoses get old, they're a b!tch. new ones are easier to slide on but still not fun. i replaced all of mine, looks a hell of alot better than before.

Could you please help me and tell me why I have water slowly streaming in from around the thing that my steering cable is connected to? It’s the gold thing In your picture at the back
Of the boat in the middle . Thanks

Killer thread revival!...just over 10 years. Brings back memories.

If you're talking about the cylindrical sort of tower looking part it's the top of the rudder. As a moving piece going through the hull it has a seal that eventually wears out. There are at least 2 different styles of rudder seals. If you're lucky, you have a grease zerk (or nipple) and can just pump some grease in. If that's the case go buy a lottery ticket too because it's super long shot that will do the trick. 30 year old boats more likely need a new seal and the grease will just make a mess.

Do a search for rudder seal and you'll find some newer threads with lots of details about replacing it.

Since this thread has been reborn, I'd love some insight on replacing the exhaust hoses. I noticed a leak on one of mine, so it's on my list of winter projects. My boat has fiberglass mufflers too, and I'm probably going to replace them preventively while I'm there. I always cut the hose lengthwise along the fitting to remove, which should be fairly easy to do with a slitter wheel. I'm having nightmares about getting the new ones on, though.

Have the hoses developed soft spots? They're pretty bullet proof except for being overheated. It's possible for them to get a little crooked when not fully clamped down. That could cause a leak.

Old exhaust hoses are a b!tch to work with. They get stiff and maybe even shrink a bit. New hoses are a little more giving. In my experience new hoses go on easier. You can spray a little soapy water on the risers and exhaust tubes to help.

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