1985 Supra Sunsport rebuild replacing stringers questions

I am redoing the stringers on my 85 Supra Sunsport skier and had a few questions (see below). My goal for the rebuild is to remove and replace existing stringers with wood and fiberglass, add a PNP ballast setup and have a boat that runs and is structurally sound. Original I wanted to do a full restore, but after reading through the threads and seeing some of the amazing jobs people have done and seeing how much time and extra money they had into a full restore, im just not to enthused. I would rather just have something I can wakeboard and surf behind and not worry about any of the cosmetics. I'll add some of the pictures I've taken for some reference.

1. Fiberglass for stringers:. I know the normal is the 1708 or 1208 biaxial cloth, but I have probably +50lbs of 6oz fiberglass cloth scraps from building surfboards and paddle boards. Would it be bad to layer the 6oz glass in, instead of purchasing new biaxial cloth? Plan on using Doug fir or microlam for stringer materials and it looks like 3/4 plywood?. I was thinking the wood is the majority of the strength so the clothes purpose was more for locking the stringers in place and "water proofing".
1A. Since this is the Kevlar hull do I put a foam spacer between the stringers and hull or should they be glass directly to the hull?

2. Rear Locker: Any ideas how to make the rear locker removable? Is it safe to just cut it out. I'm guessing I will want to use some of the space for ballast. Also, I would really like easy access to the gas tank and transom for possible future needs.

3. Boat motor: never had this boat on the water but I fired it up when I purchased it 7 years ago. Prior to that is sat for 10 years. Any ideas on how much a new/used motor would cost if needed.

4. Putting back together:. My biggest concern is not being able to put the boat back together after the stringers are finished. I do all my own vehicle maintenance and repairs. Should someone with those capabilities be able to put a boat together. Seemed to come apart fairly easy lol, but there was a lot of wires. I snipped the bilge wire because I couldn't figure out how they had it ran in with everything.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...07453395934037

If someone will let me know if this link doesn't work that would be great.

Forgot to ask about Transom.

Would it be best just to add a full sheet of 1" plywood to the transom or should I remove the current blocking and redo it. Not a big fan of the individual blocks for the swim deck platform. The 2 outside bolts blew threw, only the center board is holding the the deck on.

Good for you. Rebuild as you need.

The type of fiberglass isn't as important as laying it out properly as in surface prep, poly or epoxy mixing, etc. Scraps may be a pain in the rear to work with and require multiple layups. I used whatever weight of cloth in mine and it required chopped strand mat which was not fun. As to the stringers & hull you'll want a spacer between the wood and hull whether it's foam or something like PL poly adhesive bedding.

Can't speak to the rear locker other than to say in other models it is removable. No idea how different the topcap may or may not be.

Putting back together is 'fun' but all of that happens really quickly once the floor is ready. Be aware that without your floor and topcap the hull has flexed from losing support. You'll want to prop it back up before the floor goes in so the topcap shape more closely matches the hull shape.

Old Supras were engineered like tanks and precision wasn't part of the equation. Shoddy construction was. You can easily do a better job than the factory.

www.uscomposites.com is a good source of materials and advice. After cleaning and grinding the stringer locations on the hull I put a coat of CPES [clear penetrating epoxy sealer] from https://rotdoctor.com/ it will allow the epoxy to adhere to the fiberglass. Make sure you get the floor height right or you will have trouble with the top cap fitting.

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I hook up to these 2 Eye Hooks to lift the motor?

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Yep got her pulled!!

Sounds like I should have propped my hull prior to pulling the cap off. I was thinking I would prop it prior to installing the stringers. It does flex a lot while working in it. I was planning on using polyester resin, as I thought that is what the Manufacturer used. I am more familiar with epoxy resins, but was always under the impression polyester was easier to work with, but stinky.I also was wanting to do a gel coat over the stringers and flooring, to create a better watertight seal on,. Could just tint the resin and use it though. I know glass with resin alone isn't waterproof, it needs a sealer coat. If Supra would have sealed the stringers the majority of these boats wouldn't have rotted out. It looks like my stringers are just plywood and doubled up plywood. I noticed on Saltys and some other build threads that plywood was used as well, so I guess I'll use plywood. Correct? I was hoping to have the new stringers installed this weekend, but it's looking like rain. I'll post some new photos as I get them.

I am wanting to install hydraulic tabs. My issues is j am wanting to get the boat on the water prior to dropping extra money into it, but the thought of pulling the gas tank later to install tabs is gut wrenching. Plus I would need to make the floor and rear locker removable.(which I was thinking of doing regardless.)

My questions;

Could I purchase Twin Tabs instead of a single center tab. Then use the twin taps to improve my surf wave plus use them for general boat planning? I'm going to email Bennet and see what they think. If there is a better manufacturer please let me know, or if anyone is doing this already?

Any tips on making the floor easily removable?. As of now, I am thinking about sistering on additional 2x4s in sections I may have to access later. Then just seeing the floor down. Sounds like it would work, or am I missing something?

NVM on the tabs, well feel free to share any thoughts or experiences. But I think I'm just going to make my transom accessible, so I can play with different ideas, before committing to something.
So feel free to share any pics of your removable rear lockers.

Thanks for sharing your project, I look forward to updates. I have nothing of value to add but I like seeing stringer threads because my Saltare still has original stringers and I know it'll eventually need them replaced.

I have been held up due to weather and am now debating if it's worth fixing this boat up. I am assuming at the very lowest I would be able to have a useable boat for $1000, but since the motor has been sitting for so long, there is a high chance for additional costs which could range from another $1000-2000. So the cost range could be $1000-3000 to have a good boat. Obviously, the cost to restore could be much higher, but I am just looking at the boat as a solid shell and good motor. I can afford a newer boat. There are a few V drives in the area in the $15- $25k. There should be more deals coming on the market as fall gets closer also. Any thoughts or suggestions on if I should finish the restore and risk the additional expenses and headaches, or just buy a newer boat would be appreciated.

Where is the boat located?

Central Minnesota

I decided to buy a newer boat instead, so there is a guy coming to pick this one up Saturday. Feel free to delete the thread, as I don't think it really has any valuable information