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I am amazed at how many people try and come up with ways not to drain their block for winterization...... Plain and simple they were put there for a reason.....USE THEM.......then if you want fill your block with Afreeze thru the Jtube off the tstat after you have drained or sucked out the water. Any other way then you better have a precise understanding how the cooling system works on marine engines
Probably works great on new engines.... my engine has perhaps NEVER had the block drains out (at least not in the 8 years I've owned it...)
I tried it the first year and after breaking two sockets and an impact wrench not working.... decided I'd just leave them in. I remove the thermostat and suck 6 gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine. It runs out the exhaust the same color it goes in.
Woton, what plugs exactly were you trying to remove? The block plugs are brass and the manifold plugs are steel with a 1/2" female driver head. How did you break 2 sockets and an impact? The block plugs whould have just twisted off and you can not get an impact on the manifold plugs?
Yes, the engine drain plugs should be used to drain the engine and manifolds. Remember engines are very expensive to replace, If the engine freezes, the cast iron will crack and leak water either in to the oil or outside the block into the bilge, or both. Al
I couldn't imagine being unable to get the block drains out with an impact. What type of engine? Usually we're talking brass NPT plugs with 9/16" hex heads. I've always had them come out relatively easy with a long handled flex head 3/8" drive ratchet, even on boats that I know they weren't regularly removed for winterization.
I drained mine last weekend, a 454. The block plugs came out like butter. Watched and they drained probably several gallons, with minimal debris, and ensured holes were not plugged with debris. Then pulled the uber NPT plugs in the back of the manifolds. I doubt they're been out recently. I hit them with PB and heat cycled them once, then used a cheater bar on my ratchet since I couldn't get a breaker bar in there. Took some grunting and groaning, but got them out and both manifolds drained with only minor debris coming out. Also pulled a plug on my raw water feed line between the raw water pump and trans cooler.
I suppose with those 5 plugs pulled and drained I shouldn't worry about it, but this weekend I'm going to pull the thermostat and run a few gallons of RV antifreeze through it, then pull plugs again to drain that. I worry about small amounts of water anywhere, particularly in the raw water pump or trans cooler that could freeze and do damage. I'm probably paranoid and it would be fine as-is, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Pointed and on spot!Quote:
Originally Posted by docdrs
I cycled anti-freeze through the whole system FIRST and then drain (block plugs, exhaust manifolds, and pull the hoses off the impeller pump, j-tube and hoses off the T-stat housing).
I'm sure you can be safe with just drain but I like the added insurance of whatever liquid may be left in a low spot or in the exhaust muffler to be freeze free as well :) Just cautious I guess being a first timer!
Don't have a heater but think this process would save $$$ for alot who fail to get all the water out of the core on those. It gets damn cold in Big Sky Country (probably where u live too?)
Where do you guys run the anti-freeze through? I'd really like to do that to be safe. I winterized last weekend fortunately, we have a 20 degree night this coming weekend.
Here's the system I use:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DilR2Yyu-K0
Consists of a catch basin, PVC routing to recirculate into catch basin all the fluid from exhaust, hose from basin to intake. Run engine up to operating temp, dump water, add 4-5 gallons of environment friendly anti-freeze, and run through your system.
Most would be fine leaving as is for winter but I drain as an added measure since I'm a worry wart!
Just thought I would put this website out for anybody to review if you like. I came across this system a few years ago when I was going to have it installed on my 33' Baja but then a friend gave me a boat safe heater that he did not need anymore. www.minutedrain.com
Hmm..... makes me wonder. The plugs I tried to remove were certainly not brass.... They were 1/2" female and (I think) in the rear of the engine block. Tried to put a ratchet directly into them and broke both 1/2" drivers.... tried with an impact wrench and they didn't budge. Gave up after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by beast 496
So is anybody on here using this?Quote:
Originally Posted by SupraTamu
Or know of anybody using it?
Just wondering. Good idea but looks like the valves are fairly small and might be prone to plugging themselves?
That system looks overly expensive. Skidim sells a set of drain valves that mount directly to the block and manifolds for about $80 IIRC. You could probably get brass ball valves at the hardware store for 1/3 that cost to do the same thing, even plub them all into a larger hose that you can drop out your drain plug and not even drain the engine into the bilge.
I considered doing one of these systems myself but worried about valves getting plugged and having to pull them out and use a pick to be sure the drains are clear. Mine is direct drive so it only takes like 10 minutes to pull the plugs. For a vdrive with limited access to the plugs I would consider valves if you pushed into freeze season and needed to drain it a lot.
I agree on draining. Just sucking up antifreeze is probably good, but how do you do a "check" during this process for corrosion or debris.
Also, IIRC, there is no need to remove the t-stat if you pour in antifreeze.
I have the equivelant to the SkiDim setup. Petcock drains on each exhaust manifold, two petcock drains on each side of the engine block, and one petcock drain on the raw water intake U-tube. Easy squeezy.
I guess I'll throw in my .02 cents. A few years ago, I replaced the block plugs and j-pipe plug with brass allen-head plugs. I also replace the exhaust manifold plugs with brass face-bushings and brass allen-head plugs. I loctited the face-bushings where they thread into the cast iron manifolds so that the brass-on-brass threads between the face-bushing and plug would free easily from season to season.
The procedure is to remove all plugs (5 total) and drain the block, j-tube and exhaust manifolds. Then I remove both ends of the hose that goes between my trans cooler and raw water pump (leave this unhooked over the winter). Then I remove the impeller from the raw water pump and leave it out all winter so that it doesn't take a "set".
Once everything is drained, I remove the hose at the outlet of the raw water pump - this is what I will use to fill the block with RV antifreeze. Install the plug in the j-tube and begin pouring antifreeze through a funnel that is connected to the hose you just removed. Fill the block until the pink antifreeze begins to come out of the block drains - first the port side then the starboard side. Plug the drains tight when antifreeze starts to come out. Then continue filling the block until you get anitfreeze coming out the manifold drains - then plug them tight. Then I add a little more for good measure. It will take nearly 2 gallons of the pink stuff to do this. What I do now is use the cap from one of the anitfreeze jugs to cap the hose that I used to fill the motor - it fits good and tight!
Now you're set for the winter and all you have to do in the spring is install the impeller, re-connect the hoses and away you go!