-
5 Attachment(s)
Going The Distance
Thanks for all your posts. It gave me the info and, more importantly, the courage to tackle this. I bought this boat off craigs list for $1500, knowing the motor lost oil pressure. Pulled the motor and broke it down. Piston sleeves need polishing, new piston rings, new cams and cam shaft. While motor is out I thought "why not wet sand and put new paint on...
I opened a can of worms there. Started pulling seats out and found some rot. Being a carpenter I know that where there is rot on the surface there is usually rot in the substructure. I had my fingers crossed because the deck was new, but when I did a core check on the joist it showed rot also. Crap! I'm gutting her. She's had her top off before because there is a thousand rivots and two pounds of silicon holding it down...good times.
Well after pulling the brand new deck someone put in I found rot, water, and mold. There was even a little cockroach under there. They used "Great Stuff" to foam in a couple of sections. The foam was literally soaked. After removing it all the boat was probably 200#'s lighter. The floor joist are rotten, so I'll be taking those out as well. Looks like it's going to be a "SUPRA-BOWL SUNDAY"..HA!
-
Good for you. Take lots of pictures. Not surprised to hear about the water, mold and rot.
-
It looks like you're making good progress already. Keep us up to date with pics!
-
Welcome to the IN to Deep and No Return Now Club! Its worth it when done right! keep the pics rolling!
-
Congtrats on your project. Any questions or concerns, Just ask :D
-
5 Attachment(s)
Got the lid off
Got everything loose from lid and cranked it up today. Just need to get my buddies over to move it...funny how they are always around in the summer when it's "wakeboard time"..Ha!!!
-
Great job on the lift (but I'm partial to the garage rafter set-up)! I like the hay bale jack stands :) (too bad I gave away the hay when I sold the last horse). At least with all that Great Stuff, she was well insulated and not as drafty. If the trailer is decent, sounds about where I started with my Saltare.
Yeah, my buddies split too once I started talkin' about crazy things like cutting a running boat in two & unleashing 25 year old mold spores and toxic gunk from rotting foam. Can't imagine why they wouldn't want to share in breathing resin fumes & fiberglass dust???
Good luck & let us know if we can help. Don't always have answers, but opinions aplenty.
-
I know..right?! I used a bottle jack and those big yellow straps to get her off the trailer. I was a little nervous about her weight flexing the joist and cracking the grout on my bathroom floor (just finished that project), so I used the hay bails..works great and molds to the contour of the hull nicely. Most importantly, I didn't have to spend any money!
-
Yeah, there'll be plenty of opportunities to spend money as you progress...
-
foam
just wondering if it is nessary to add foam under the deck? I was looking at khelfrich's restoration pics. on shutterfly and I don't think he did. If I can get away without it I will ($244.00 saved).
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rlhahn
just wondering if it is nessary to add foam under the deck? I was looking at khelfrich's restoration pics. on shutterfly and I don't think he did. If I can get away without it I will ($244.00 saved).
I also saw a guy that used ping-pong balls. He said after ten years it looked the same as when he put them in.
-
I think you will find that a good number of people here did not put foam back after a stringer repair.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
TitanTn
I think you will find that a good number of people here did not put foam back after a stringer repair.
Thanks TitanTn. That is what I wanted to hear.
-
Coast Guard regs require flotation in boats, but exempt those over 21' (at least I think it's 21'). It's not like you're gonna get pulled over for a foam check, but might get sticky with insurance if it ever sunk & regs required it & you didn't have it.
Otherwise I think it's personal preference.
Pro's - could be the difference between swamping & sinking, adds some strength (still convinced it was the only thing holding my Saltare together), sound insulation for a quieter ride.
Con's - notorious for eventually becoming wet, holding moisture, & leading to rot, added dead weight once it's wet (could be a pro if considered as permanent ballast :)), added cost, added mess.
Sure, it might take 10-20 years for it to get saturated, & properly sealed structure (unlike the factory did 20 years ago) will last a long time even with wet foam. Also, look at Salty87's thread for his novel solution which could help as well. That being said, I went foamless just cause I wanted the boat to be able to dry out down there. If you go foamless, don't forget to add some limber holes at the bottom of the stringers so water isn't trapped.
-
Wait!! Soaked foam in the floor? 10'Lx6'W=60 sq ftx8lbs(water)=480lbs of BALLAST!! Leave it!! LMAO! Jet
-
Hey rlhahn. I sure need a few pictures from up under that nose, top and bottom...PLEASE???? I want to cut a whole in my nose/divider so a sac can go across side to side on there. Check out my resto pic's below and if you need anything pm me or call. Jet
-
1 Attachment(s)
I wonder If this boat had foam (not a Supra by the way)
This is what happens when you try to fit 30 people in a boat built for 8.
-
5 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jet
Hey rlhahn. I sure need a few pictures from up under that nose, top and bottom...PLEASE???? I want to cut a whole in my nose/divider so a sac can go across side to side on there. Check out my resto pic's below and if you need anything pm me or call. Jet
I finally had some help last night moving the top over. Here are a few pics I took for ya. Hope they help. I'll be cutting new stringers and glassing this week, wish me luck.
-
THANK YOU!! OK so the divider is attached to the top not the floor?? I just tore my floor up today, Im right behind you. lol
-
We need to move this thread to service and repair?? Mikey? Can we..I think more people will find it. I couldn't even remember where I saw it at, I had to go into user cp to find it. Jet
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
NeilMcg
Congtrats on your project. Any questions or concerns, Just ask :D
Has anyone tried using Composite wood alternatives? Trex makes a composite PVC that is supposed to have a 25 year no rot warranty? If you did use something like this, would you still epoxy?
-
I'm not sure that Trex's product will have the same strength. There are composite stringers available for sale......
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
vvfdfirefighter
Has anyone tried using Composite wood alternatives? Trex makes a composite PVC that is supposed to have a 25 year no rot warranty? If you did use something like this, would you still epoxy?
I'm going with Coosa board bluewater 26. It's expensive, but it's lightweight and resin is optional. Tamara Fee is the rep and is able to answer any questions.
Phone: 205-663-3225 ext 102
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mapleleaf
I'm not sure that Trex's product will have the same strength. There are composite stringers available for sale......
Trex makes residential composite decking material...2x4,2x6....
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
NeilMcg
I'm going with Coosa board bluewater 26. It's expensive, but it's lightweight and resin is optional. Tamara Fee is the rep and is able to answer any questions.
Phone: 205-663-3225 ext 102
Thanks NeilMcg, I'll keep that in mind, but I still have my fingers crossed that its just the one soft spot behind the driver seat towards the bilge. Everything is origional on my boat. Even the upholstery. So we'll see what happens...Needs to get re-upholstered in the next year or so, its starting to show signs of cracking.
-
You weren't kidding about expensive at all! Wow.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
vvfdfirefighter
Trex makes residential composite decking material...2x4,2x6....
I work with it every spring when somebody needs a deck. I think its way to flexible to offer the structure a hull needs. Still it wouldn't rot, I'll give you that!!
25 yrs wouldn't be long enough, when the wooden ones are basically lasting that length. There's a composite supplier selling stringer material for boats, just can't remember which thread it was posted in....
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mapleleaf
I work with it every spring when somebody needs a deck. I think its way to flexible to offer the structure a hull needs. Still it wouldn't rot, I'll give you that!!
25 yrs wouldn't be long enough, when the wooden ones are basically lasting that length. There's a composite supplier selling stringer material for boats, just can't remember which thread it was posted in....
That's exactly why I asked the question. Thanks for the Answer. Note to self, its too flexible!!! We'll scratch that thought then and move to the next.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rlhahn
I finally had some help last night moving the top over. Here are a few pics I took for ya. Hope they help. I'll be cutting new stringers and glassing this week, wish me luck.
Just a curious question fo ryou rlhahn? I've heard talk on other boat forums about replacing stringers...Now in more than a handful of other pages I've seen people say NOT to let the new stringers touch the Hull of the boat...They say You will set up local stress points that will crack the hull. Many people suggest a 1/4" gap between the stringer and the hull....Has anyone heard this before???
-
Don't know about that one?? How would you attach the stringers if they aren't touching the hull?
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
vvfdfirefighter
Has anyone tried using Composite wood alternatives? Trex makes a composite PVC that is supposed to have a 25 year no rot warranty? If you did use something like this, would you still epoxy?
I don't see why you couldn't use a composit wood product for the stringers. My only question would be "if you didn't glass and epoxy them what would hold them in place?"
-
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mapleleaf
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....
what do you use for bedding material?
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mapleleaf
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....
What is the bedding material? Do you mean the foam? If so, I'm not using foam.
-
Is this for real?? Why would you gap it?? I thought guys were just using 5200 to glue it to the floor?
-
BAM! The wonders of google!
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WakeSurfCanada
WakeSurfCanada, although I thank you for the help with your google search sarcasm, the whole reason for this thread is to ask questions. Again I thank you for your help, but may I remind you that some of us are just looking for advice, since people on here have done the work already and I've seen people talk about doing it differently on different pages.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mapleleaf
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....
"Run a router with a round over bit over bit over the top of the stringers. The biaxle will conform much easier than any roven woven and is stronger. Run some generous fillets down each side of the stringer. 1 1/2in radius. To make things easier to lay. Run the biaxle down each side. Cover the fillet and go to
the top -- side of the stringer, but don't wrap it over the top. Tape the top of the stringer with several layers of 8oz tape. This will help from getting air traped under your glass and be easier to lay. Smaller pieces are always easier to handle."
My question now is what is a founded fillet????
-
I thought that most people were using 5200 to bond to the floor and then laying over with cloth?? Would that not work?
what is biaxle, roven woven..use 8oz tape?? Really? Im very confused now.:?
-
A fillet is just a rounded corner. You can make bedding and fillet material by mixing a filler (micro balloons, talc, chopped strand, wood dust, etc) with resin to form a goopy putty like substance.
You want to use a bedding material between the stringers and hull so that there is uniform contact between the two surfaces which avoids air pockets and local stress points that can lead to cracks. It takes a little practice to get the consistency just right - too dry & it won't squish well, too wet & it won't hold shape. Be fairly liberal with laying down the bedding material and use what squishes out when you set the stringer in to form a radius (fillet) between the hull and stringer before it sets up (I like to use the rounded end of a 1" wide wooden tongue depressor). You'll probably have to go back after it sets to build up and dress up the fillets before glassing. Again, a fillet is just a radiused filler to help the glass lay down in the corner.
1-1/2" seems pretty big for biaxial cloth. I'm no glassman, but I can lay heavy 17 oz biaxial with a 1/2 to 1" fillet. Also, rather than sanding the fillets perfectly smooth prior to glassing - you can rough sand (80 grit) them relatively smooth & then lay down another pass of fillet filler material and then lay the glass while the filler is still wet. This way you can really work the glass into the fillet without bubbles. Preparation is key (cloth pre-cut, all supplies handy, etc.) & have to pre-wet the cloth, work quickly, & watch your resin kick times.
