Winterizing Ford 351 in a Comp

As the thread title says, looking at really going hands on with my boat this fall and winterizing it myself, not yet as we still have a few more weeks down here to enjoy. I did a quick search, of course I looked through the sticky that was posted from the Moomba site. Just curious to the fellow direct drive guys out there what you do different from it and how you service the trans. Any help and insight is greatly appreciated so I can start researching and gathering any additional tools and parts I need for the job. Also, when I had it professionally winterized last year, the dealer put anti-freeze in the system, do any of you do that?

Thanks in advance guys.

Here's what I do with my boats.

Plan to do this on a day where you will have been on the lake for a few hours. The point being you want to get your motor nice and warm, get everything in the motor loose and moving. By running it through the water, it breaks up anything that might have built up over the last week or two.

Run the boat for a while letting it run real well. Then pull it, and start your winterizing procedure.

1) Pull the main hull plug and have the trailer set so it can all drain out, you're about to get more water in there.

2) Now, start the boat for a minute. Yes, it's bad for the impeller to run it dry, but only for a minute max. Since I replace the impeller each year, I know it's okay. But run it too long and the impeller will shred and parts of it can jam the cooling system. The goal of this is to pull any water in the cooling lines out, and to blow out as much excess water as possible.

3) Then remove the cooling line above the impeller to allow any water to drain out, instead of into the impeller housing. Also remove the bottom line from the transmission cooler to allow any water to drain out of it, and to let it breathe.

4) Remove the water plugs on the back bottom sides of the exhaust manifolds.

5)Remove the water bolt drain on the side of the block, it will be a small square head bolt on the side of the main block, a little water should drain out. This is a cooling passage that you can use to flush the cooling system if you ever need to.
*side note* Now many people remove all the hoses, and do much more to prepare for winter. I don't as I get the most of the water out through this process. Since the motor is hot, and I flush out most of the excess, opening up the engine allows the rest to evaporate out. What you're trying to do is make sure there is no where the water can pool up, especially in the block or metal components like the Transmission cooler or impeller housing.

6) Remove the raw water filter and ensure it's dry. It's plastic, so ice won't do well.

7) Now, most water should be out of the engine and allowing air into the block, exhausts, and components. Also most water will be flushed out the back. This is a great time to make sure any water in the hull is drained out, and dry to prevent moisture or mold build up. Then tilt the trailer up as high as it will go to ensure any water in the exhaust drains out.

8.) Oil. Don't change it now. I never understood why anyone would change the oil, and then let it sit for 6 months. Oil sitting still collects moisture. Any moisture in the motor (which there is) drains down to the oil pan, thus thinning it out. So why would you change your oil, only to then run weak watered down oil next summer? Oil needs to be changed before you run it next year, not before it sits there doing nothing. It won't protect the motor that doesn't run.

9) Carb'd engines I will pour a little SeaFoam down the carb. Another reason for a nice warm motor is it will help the fuel evaporate from the bowls. You can prime the throttle a few times to ensure the jets are clear.

10) Remove all spark plugs. This is a great time for new ones. Get your new plugs, and gap them. Before putting the new plugs in, spray engine fogger in the cylinders. I will use two whole cans on a V-8. One per side. It's oil, it will not hurt your engine. But I make sure I've got a good protective coating of oil on the cylinder walls. Then finger tighten the new plugs in. Do not tighten as you will want to do a shot of engine fogger again in the spring before you start the engine. Providing a nice pre-lubed surface while the oil pump tries to cycle fresh oil in and down the engine. Once the new plugs are finger tightened in, don't put the caps on, it will help you remember to not only spray more fogger, but to tighten the plugs in spring.

11) Top off the fuel tank with Non-ethanol fuel if you can find it. That's much better for your fuel system. Top it off, and pour the rest of that SeaFoam in the tank to prevent water build up.

12) Remove the battery from the boat, do not just disconnect it. Place it on a wood surface in the garage, or on a scrap piece of carpet. Do not just set it on the concrete. I will put a trickle (2amp) charge on it every two months, till fully charged. Before charging, make sure the battery is full of fresh water if it's a traditional battery.

13) Make sure the boat is bone dry. If it's going to be in a spot where it will get rained on, or wet over the seasons, remove all cushions that you can. Not only will it help protect the vinyl, but will allow air movement to help prevent mildew.

14) I put the trailer on jack stands to protect the tires, but that might be a wee-bit overboard for some.

15) Top off the brake master cylinder on the trailer.

If I forgot anything, I'll come back and edit it later. I typed this in a hurry. Winterizing is like masturbating, there are tons of ways to do it. And only you are going to do it the way you know best. Everyone has their own way of doing it.

Thanks for the reply Haugy, real quick, what about your trans fluid? Do you service that at all or do you just make sure that the cooler has been drained of water? Luckily my boat is stored indoors for the winter, got a steal @ $250.00 for the entire winter. Only downside is that I am unable to put the trailer on jack stands to aleviate flat spotting the tires.

Ben,

Not sure if your boat has a heater or an onboard shower -- those both need to be blown out and drained. I use the air compressor, and then run RV anti-freeze thru the lines

i loosen my belts as well, or take them off. Whatever you do to winterize, make sure when your done your holding 5 plugs from your motor, 6 if you pull the tranny cooler plug instead of the hose. Good luck

"Why do you change oil in the fall"
The reason is to remove the impurity's from the oil, ie carbon and acids which can form. These can attach the babbet brgs, ( main and rod) due to being alum and the crank being steel.
Change the oils in the fall and change fuel filters in the spring.
Stay away from shrink wrap, try to find heated storage.
We store our boat inside all summer and winter, I have a temperture controlled storage, 30' x 12' doesnt go above 85 in summer or below 55 in winter. Al

My manual says to change trans fluid when winterizing. You have to suck it out. Or pump it out of the filler hole. Then refill. I also put all the hoses and plugs back in after I drain engine. And refill with -100 marine antifreeze. Per owners manual.

I do it a little different.
1- I start by adding fuel stabilizer on the last day of use or at start of winterizing.
2-Run the engine on the trailer with a hose when warm remove the spark arrestor and spray fogging oil into the carb while keeping the rpms up enough to keep it running. Keep spraying until at least 3/4 of the can is gone then lower rpms and kill the engine by choking it with the fogging oil. Remove batteries keep them as haugy posted.
3-Start the oil draining from the hose attached to the oil pan through the center hull drain replace the filter [I do this the night before and let it drain over night. fill with 5 qts fresh oil.
4-There are 5 drain plugs on your 351 2 at the rear of the exhaust manifolds 2 on the lower sides of the block mine are brass 9/16 hex head and 1 at the bottom of the cast iron U pipe connected to the circulating pump in the front of the engine.
Remove them and drain all water.
Remove the raw water pump split it and remove the impeller. If you are reusing it dont put it back or replace it in the spring. Remove the hose at the lower end of the trans cooler and drain the strainer bowl.
5-Reinstall all drain plugs install a long funnel in the top hose of the raw water pump [it goes to the thermostat housing] pore 2 gallons of antifreeze [I use 50/50 mix green automotive antifreeze] in you will see a little come out the exhaust.
6- Clean the flame arrestor with spray brake cleaner reinstall when dry.
Now is a good time to do a complete cleaning including the bilge, interior, exterior and carpet wash wax and 303 the vinyl. Also go over the entire boat and tweak, tighten and repair everything you have been putting off during the season.
In Chicago you wont have a mildew problem but its best to get the bilge as dry as possible [I use a wet vac to get the water out near the bilge pump.
As for the trans oil it should be changed every 50 hours go to CorrectCraftFan forum click the reference box at the top of the home page then scroll down to the PCM manual for full procedure.
I lived in your area for 30 years before moving to GA. The season here will go until Nov or Dec. This year we were in the water in Feb [dry suits] the water temp has started to cool off to 80 degrees air is bouncing between upper 70s and low 90s.
I LUV it here.

Here is a cheap and effective way to run boat in driveway. All parts bought at lowes. Unhook hose on bottom of trans cooler. Take hose from bottom of bucket and hook to bottom of trans cooler. Hook garden hose to top of bucket. Turn on water and start boat. You are now sucking water in naturally instead of forcing it into the system. http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_0075.jpg http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_0074.jpg http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_0076.jpg

Good deal foxriver, on my boat you would need to connect it to the top of the trans cooler. I just put a bucket down by the trans coupler and disconnect the hose at the hull fitting put the hose and water hose in the bucket and turn on the water.

Hey Fox, how much longer you planning on waiting before you start closing up for the winter?

Hey Jetlink. I usually do it mid to late october.

Michael, I also use fogging oil to kill the engine to start the winterization process but I've never kept the RPM's up while doing it. I usually just have it at idle and stop spraying shortly after the engine dies. What is the purpose for keeping RPM's up? Is it to run more of the oil through the carb?

Also, I've been meaning to ask you guys this, for those of you that have ballast systems or installed your own - what do you do for winterization of those?
I chose to remove all of my bags and keep those in my basement through the winter, I blew out all of the lines the best I could, and then I poured simple anti-freeze into the lines that I know have low spots where water might collect.

I know none of this has to do with the original questions about the 351.. but I also make sure I use a vinyl cleaner and protectant on all of the vinyl before I put it away.

I dont want the engine to die until I have at least 3/4 of the can empty so I keep just above idle. That way the oil has a chance to work its way through and coat everything in the fuel system below the carb. By drowning it with oil at the end it will coat the cylinders and pistons before it can burn it off. I have some built in hard tanks and two extra bags. I remove the bags and then add 1 1/2 gals of RV antifreeze to the hard tanks.

Chrisk,

Are you using automotive anti-freeze? That's poisonous - you should use RV-antifreeze which is non-toxic -- just make sure you get the
good stuff that is good enough for VERY cold temps.

You are right about automotive antifreeze in the spring put 2 five gal buckets under the exhaust and take it to a disposal site.
The engine was designed to have reg antifreeze. I like to keep everything wet during the winter rather than letting all the seals and gaskets dry out. RV antifreeze is probubly OK too . I have just never used it.

I use 8 gallons of RV antifreeze and don't drain the block. I pull out the thermostat so that I know that the engine is sucking in. Never had a problem.

I use 5 gallons of RV antifreeze (not the cheaper pink stuff). First pull all drains and any low hoses to drain as much water as possible, then remove thermostat to ensure good circulation when I run the antifreeze through it. I use a 5 gal bucket with a fitting and hole in the bottom and prop up high, connect hose to pickup hose off trans cooler, and fill bucket with antifreeze. Then start engine, let it run until all antifreeze is out of the bucket, pull all drains again, and pull impeller (I'll use impellers for 2-3 seasons if they still look good and are pliable).

After this it's time to clean and dry the bilge, get all the cushions bagged and stored in the garage or basement, clean what's left inside the boat, etc., etc.

Not to question anyone's methods, as I stated earlier everyone has their own way.

But for the past 22 years, I have never once used anti-freeze in my engines. They have endured weeks at a time of 2 degrees, so I'm pretty sure they could survive any winters up North as well. But as (good lord I wish I knew your name) tg08ssvggsxpexdsys said, that anti-freeze you're pouring in is toxic, and not in a closed system.

If you do absolutely feel that you need to do that, please ensure you are doing like Michael Hunter posted and making sure you capture it in Spring and dispose of it properly. If you haven't seen it, anti-freeze poisoning is an awful way for something to die. And having to shoot my own animal because some jackwagon did that was one of the hardest things I've ever had to do. So please be careful if using that stuff. People take it too lightly in my opinion.

We have an inground pool so for my ballast system I used non-toxic antifreeze sold in pool stores. I simply used this because it was just laying in the ground and would serve my purpose.

I was wondering if people out there go to the trouble of removing the ballast pumps all together to ensure they don't get cracked from leftover water freezing?

Quote:

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But as (good lord I wish I knew your name) tg08ssvggsxpexdsys

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LOL -- my name is Todd. When I first got the Supra and came on here, I asked about 30,000 questions - -which was
enough to get me banned for looking like a spammer. My name was toddg then. Now "I" am a moderator and am one
of the ones that boots people for spamming!

The admins at the time would not let me have my name back once banned, so I used my initials TG then the boat -08 24SSV and GG for Gravity Games.
How many times I have wished it was simpler myself. Oh well.

:o)
Todd