87 Comp Resto Questions (long post)

Hey guys a have a few questions and concerns about my 87 comp. First off let me say I bought the boat brand new, sold it 5 years ago, and just bought it back from him last week. (sentimental value) The guy that had it did not take care of it at all.
Anyways it needs a new floor cause the foam is saturated. The only real soft spot in the floor is right where the spotter puts his feet, but the foam is the problem. What should I do?
Also as far as interior goes how much can I expect to pay to get it recovered? It needs a new starter, any recomendations?
also has anyone has experience at switching over to a non points distributor?

Any help would be appreciated... Thanks in advance

if the foam has been wet for awhile, then the wood has too. the only way to find out how bad is to open it up and take a look. you might find a bigger job than you were hoping for, you might just have to fix that spot.

shop around on the seats. really depends on the shops around you and wait time of the year you want to get it done. it will cost more now than the winter. you can usually save some by doing some of the prep work, check with your local shops though.

did you have your starter tested? there's a local shop here that bench tests for free and sells rebuilts at a good price. you might have a place in your area. any local boat dealerships should be able to tell you who they use for starter and alternator work. but, don't drop it off at the dealer, they charge more than the shop does....usually.

i still have points.

Go with Salty's advice on the floor and interior.

I just converted my distributor from points to electronic in my '89 Comp. The kit was about $100 from www.skidim.com. The job took me about an hour. It's pretty simple, and can probably be done much quicker, but I took my time. I haven't noticed any difference in performance, but I've only had the boat out twice since the conversion.

Good luck with the resto!

Ok I just checked the lag bolts on the motor.(to check for stringer rot) and they are all loose and about to fall out I could actually pull one out with a flat screwdriver. Its a lot worse than I thought. Does anyone have step by step instructions or pics for replacing stringers and floor? How much would it cost to have done? I dont plan on having the boat on the water this summer I have a 92 Comp for that. So time isnt an issue. Thanks!

Welcome to the world of old school Supras! I am currently working on an 84 Rider, and I too have found the rot. I am documenting the progress on a web site listed in another post. I am trying to take as many pictures as I can. I have not got to the stringer replacement yet, but will take photos when I do. I am lucky that the main stringers that hold the engine are good, but the secondarys are bad.

As for replacing them or just repairing your stringers, it depends on how bad they are. The only true way to tell is to get the entire floor out. Sometimes, the stringers can be injected with Dr. Rot to rebuild them. If you search the net, you will find pictures and such. Iboat forum http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi has a lot of projects inwork.

As for someone else doing it, I was looking from 3K to 7K for all the work to be done. It depends on where you are located. I decided to do it myself, and it is taking a lot of time. So be glad you have another ride this summer.

Mike

Ok took the passenger side floor out about 2 hours ago. the stringers all look and feel to be very solid. All except where the motor bolts up. The foam definitly needs replaing but all but those ones are pretty tight. any clue on how just to replace those thicker ones?

here's an 84 Supra Rider, work in progress.... http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/p...t,p,91,00.html
i don't remember where i found that link, thanks to the person doing the project!

iboats.com is a great site, their restoration section has lots of pics. there are also several threads going at any time about which type of resin to use (epoxy or poly), types of wood, fiberglassing recommendations (weight of cloth, woven roving, etc.). i can't say enough good things, been studying up for this project.

depending on your exact situation and the shape of those stringers, you might be able to repair sections of them or you might have to scrape them out. got pics?



they're fixb52's pics.....thanks fix!!

I too found dry rot in my 89 Comp on the spotters side. I removed a section of the floor and discovered the support beam partially rotted. The dry rot in the floor goes partially under the seat. I need to remove the front seat. However, there is fiber glass portion on the bottom of the seat that appears to be molded to the rest of the boat. I was wondering how do you remove the spotters seat?

Greymac I was wondering the same thing, It seems like youd have to take the top half of the boat off to get to it cause its one big molded piece

Here are a few pictures that Brian (SupraNut on this site) sent to me last year of his floor replacement on his 90 Sunsport:

http://photos.wakeboarder.com/showga...amp;ppuser=270

You will see that the spotters seat is indeed molded to the top, so the whole top would have to be raised to get under it.

He had the work done in TN and paid around $2800. I think he is still on this site.

I changed my complete ignition system four years ago with an MSD distributor and a Crane hi6 ignition box. One of the best things I've done so far. Starts very easy and have not had any problems. Take a look at the new Edelbrock carbs. Easy to replace the old Holley with. As an added benifit will run much better.
My interior Vinyl replacement was just over $2500.00 and I removed and reinstalled the seats myself and did all the carpet myself also. However I had a complicated pattern, multi-colors done on the seats etc.
I started my interior from hell project two winters ago on an 89 Bravura. Same problems, soft floor in a few areas and a general feeling that more rot was in the hull that what I was seeing. I'll keep it short . Yep, lots of floor rot. I used a small hydraulic jack with wood blocks to lift the top of the boat at the windshield area, this raises the observers seat base, which is molded to the top, just enough to allow the use of a long wood chisel that I made from a piece of 1/8 in.x 2in. wide steel and 3ft.long to split the floor from the stringers.
At the back of the boat I used wedges to lift the bottom of the seats(molded to the top of boat) and my trusty chisel/hammer combo to remove the floor from bow to stern. I was lucky that the engine mounting is sound.
The foam was waterloged in some areas and was full of voids and mold. Most voids were in the corners of each bay. These voids were the places where floor rot was most prevelant. I removed all of the foam( very,very messy ) and pressure washed with clorox to kill any remaining mold ect.
I cross drilled 1in. holes through each bay low enough to allow water to drain between them and 1in holes into the bilge at each bay.I sealed each hole as it passed with epoxy resin. I did not replace the foam. This might have been a sin. Will report back in a few years.
I used 3/4in. marine plywood which I covered with two layers of fiberglass cloth and resin on the bottom and three on the top. After finishing with a belt sander , I attached the floor pieces with PL400 constuction adhesive to the stringers.(this stuff works excellent ).
This easy winter project consumed about 200 hrs. of labor.However it takes me more time than average to get it done. My wife still hates me from this project. -------- Next ? We launch to the Moon!

What about replacing the stringer that the motor and tranny are bolted too? All the stringers are perfect besides these. Do I have to take the motor completely out? Or could I just unbolt it and lift it a few inches? Also are those stringers just 6x6 pieces of wood?